Hot Brakes / Wheels
#1
Hot Brakes / Wheels
For a long time now I noticed that my wheels always get warm/hot regardless of how hard I've been driving and more recently I had a partially seized front left caliper.
I replaced the front calipers on Friday and the discs and pads (front and rear) are only a few thousand miles old but after driving home today (8 miles on motorway) all 4x wheels where warm to touch. If it was just the rears I'd except that maybe they needed replacing too but for the new fronts to be hot I'm suspecting something more sinister but from here on my knowledge runs a bit dry.
I should point out that I greased the sliders - I'm not sure how freely they should move but I'd best describe the motion as like squeezing a syringe. i.e. they move but are'nt loose.
The brake fluid is ATE super blue and was replaced when the pads and discs were done. I bled the front calipers thoroughly when I fitted the new calipers.
To state the obvious they are hot because there's contact between pad and disc/rotor when there be shouldn't be.
Is it possible that the servo is applying a slight pressure to the brakes the whole time? Or something in the system is heating up and expanding cause them to all come on?
Any ideas people?
Some of my older threads remain unanswered by me (or anyone to be fair). I am replacing my TCT and tensioner pulley bearings shortly to try and resolve a cold engine rattle (stops when hot) and ticking noise - i'll update the old threads accordingly.
Edit: i did some hard braking this evening and it provoked a vibration when braking thereafter, presumably a slightly warp caused by the high temps created.
I replaced the front calipers on Friday and the discs and pads (front and rear) are only a few thousand miles old but after driving home today (8 miles on motorway) all 4x wheels where warm to touch. If it was just the rears I'd except that maybe they needed replacing too but for the new fronts to be hot I'm suspecting something more sinister but from here on my knowledge runs a bit dry.
I should point out that I greased the sliders - I'm not sure how freely they should move but I'd best describe the motion as like squeezing a syringe. i.e. they move but are'nt loose.
The brake fluid is ATE super blue and was replaced when the pads and discs were done. I bled the front calipers thoroughly when I fitted the new calipers.
To state the obvious they are hot because there's contact between pad and disc/rotor when there be shouldn't be.
Is it possible that the servo is applying a slight pressure to the brakes the whole time? Or something in the system is heating up and expanding cause them to all come on?
Any ideas people?
Some of my older threads remain unanswered by me (or anyone to be fair). I am replacing my TCT and tensioner pulley bearings shortly to try and resolve a cold engine rattle (stops when hot) and ticking noise - i'll update the old threads accordingly.
Edit: i did some hard braking this evening and it provoked a vibration when braking thereafter, presumably a slightly warp caused by the high temps created.
#2
Take it to an MOT station and put it on the brake tester.
To much fluid in it ?
To much fluid in it ?
#3
Did you check if the pads were free in the carrier, one of the most common things i see is that the pads are too tight when fitted when enough care isn't taken either cleaning the seating area or sizing the pads too fit
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FuzzFace14 (06-25-2018)
#4
Registered User
Hi have done a few rebuilding of calipers together with carrier, disc and pad changes. I wonder if u have used the correct grease with regard to the caliper pins. It must be silicone grease or else that syringe feel will occur. Also the caliper pins must be put back in the correct holes in the caliper. If not a vibration will occur. The slider with the flat ridge goes in the upper hole and the round one down below. Did you replace calipers with oem ones ?
If so in my experience oem pads are a must . When you compare oem pads alongside other makes there is a difference in the shape of the ends that come into contact with the sliders. I have on one occasion taken a file to reshape to match up as near as poss with the oem one.
Hope you get sorted and your mpg consequently improves - its surprising how much binding brakes will cause lower mpg.
If so in my experience oem pads are a must . When you compare oem pads alongside other makes there is a difference in the shape of the ends that come into contact with the sliders. I have on one occasion taken a file to reshape to match up as near as poss with the oem one.
Hope you get sorted and your mpg consequently improves - its surprising how much binding brakes will cause lower mpg.
#5
Registered User
Sorry one other important thing re the rear brakes binding. When the rear discs/ pads are changed very important to slacken the handbrake cable off completely beforehand. Once the new stuff fitted then carry out the handbrake adjustment as per the Honda manual.
#6
Nipples on rear pads in the piston slot correctly<if they have them on your pads>
#7
Hi have done a few rebuilding of calipers together with carrier, disc and pad changes. I wonder if u have used the correct grease with regard to the caliper pins. It must be silicone grease or else that syringe feel will occur. Also the caliper pins must be put back in the correct holes in the caliper. If not a vibration will occur. The slider with the flat ridge goes in the upper hole and the round one down below. Did you replace calipers with oem ones ?
If so in my experience oem pads are a must . When you compare oem pads alongside other makes there is a difference in the shape of the ends that come into contact with the sliders. I have on one occasion taken a file to reshape to match up as near as poss with the oem one.
Hope you get sorted and your mpg consequently improves - its surprising how much binding brakes will cause lower mpg.
If so in my experience oem pads are a must . When you compare oem pads alongside other makes there is a difference in the shape of the ends that come into contact with the sliders. I have on one occasion taken a file to reshape to match up as near as poss with the oem one.
Hope you get sorted and your mpg consequently improves - its surprising how much binding brakes will cause lower mpg.
The pins probably don't have the correct grease on them so I'm going to replace that with some high temp silicone grease.
I never removed the sliders from the housing, I just pulled the rubber back and stuffed grease in there before pushing/pulling to spread it about.
The discs are Bremtech (non grooved or drilled) and I think the pads are ADL Blueprint, maybe Mintex.
I've never fiddles with the hand brake cable but will check that at the same time.
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#8
Although having the correct grease for the sliders is important, having the wrong grease won't cause your problem. If they are free they are free so to speak. The wrong grease will not last long at all ie copper slip.
the pins must be removed fully, cleaned and then greased.
Having said all that the rear brakes do tend to run hotter than the fronts regardless.
the pins must be removed fully, cleaned and then greased.
Having said all that the rear brakes do tend to run hotter than the fronts regardless.
#9
Registered User
i missed aligned mine once and had a very hot disc after only a few miles. It’s also a bugger to check visually as it’s the inside pad.
also as Dave said, check the stainless steel sliders are clean and if needed, file the rust off from behind where they sit. This can cause the pad to bind in the carrier.
#10
I’ve got the same issue: hot front wheels after a very short run out. I’ve just fitted reconditioned Bigg Red Caliper all round; I did clean up the anti rattle pieces, copper slip on the touching parts but I used silicone lube not grease on the sliders. Doh.
If I can get hold of some grease tomorrow I plan to clean the lube of the sliders/carriers and reassemble with grease...fingers crossed it works, off on holiday on Friday and my wife will not be happy if we ha be to take her swift sport
If I can get hold of some grease tomorrow I plan to clean the lube of the sliders/carriers and reassemble with grease...fingers crossed it works, off on holiday on Friday and my wife will not be happy if we ha be to take her swift sport