Daytona-Dave

It was 2013 since my car was last on the dyno to do an oil comparison check since then it's been driven hard used for sprinting and hillclimbs and abused badly on a few trackdays with quite a few down shift over revs to the point as some will know my engine developed a strange knock within this was stripped and rebuilt over winter which brings me to this post,

12 months ago i bought a Haltech ECU of someone who had never got around to using it which then sat on the shelve at the garage (A) because i was struggling to find someone local who would tune it as most have their preferred brain to work on and (B) the engine engine noise didn't warrant multiple run ups on a dyno so after rebuilding and running in the engine it was time to twist someones arm to have a play with the Haltech or move it on and get an ME which the guy in the next street (Mikeanics motorsport) was familiar with, the reason for choosing Mike was he is well known in rally and circuit racing circles and has a very good rep,

Car specs
JDM so higher compression pistons
OEM air filter and custom intake pipe and cold air box
intake temp sensor relocate
OEM JDM ECU
OEM manifold with a diy tweak and heat wrapped
OEM cat JDM so only a single monolith
OEM exhaust with 30mm UK mod
4.4 diff
engine rebuilt with new rods, rings, big end shells, 04 on retainers and valves decoked and lapped,

Results are dyno specific the aim was to see the difference between the JDM ECU and the Haltech then add on the 70mm throttle body and larger intake pipe on the same dyno on the same day
When the car last went on this same dyno setup in 2013 it came out at a best run of 238 hp and 138 tq so first up was to do a few runs with the OEM ECU to get a trace to work from, this time around she came out at 243.2 hp and 153.2 tq, next was to swap out to the Haltech and leave Mike to do his job, there was a slight gain in peak hp and a descent rise through the range in tq,





Next up was too change over to the 70mm throttle body (intake manifold port matched to TB) and larger intake pipe but still using the OEM air filter as it flows perfectly well we gain a couple of more horse's but lost a couple of peak tq but gain more mid-range so we decided to keep it on, if it had lost anything mid-range for gains high up then it would have being removed we checked the small dia intake pip which i had on the oem TB that gave the same hp and the same tq but slightly down mid range so we stuck with the larger pipe,








after all this we ended up with a 9 hp gain and 2 peak tq and a fair bit in the mid-range but i can't feel any difference so i may as well have left it as it was and saved some money but then there would be no fun in that would there

Nottm_S2

there aint a lot to gain is there? i dunno why people do more than intake and zorst, the sound is worth it but the rest may as well be saved for a kompressor

flanders

Interesting, did you lower the VTEC at all?
Fitting a test pipe or a HFC should make a very nice midrange bump when lowering the VTEC.

Daytona-Dave

Vtec is set at 5400 any lower and it put a big hole in the mid-range, the OEM JDM cat is already a HFC but it will be interesting to try a Berk or similar and a single system but that will be much later in the year when funds allow plus important to try and go for a day with similar air temp or the test will mean diddly

flanders

Didn't know the JDM cat was different, I think our euro cat might be referred to as "high flow" as well but it's still a huge bottleneck.

Daytona-Dave

Yeah the Euro cat for a standard road car a relatively hi-flow which has two blocks of metalized monolith the JDM cat use's only one block creating a better flow

Toms1989

Either Way Ray, a gain is a gain bud.

Those are good solid numbers and Mikeanincs's dyno has a rep of being a heart breaker!