K3Nguru's S2000
#22
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#23
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This is what my spare air box looks like after some effort with dremel, hacksaw, side cutters, drill, file and sandpaper.
I haven't even cleaned the air box yet and it's filthy. AJ, I meant the hole on upper right inside the box. I think it's some kind of resonator. Would it be any use if I blocked it? I'll either wrap or paint the inside of the air box because I want a clean look.
Then I'll add this intake air duct and air filter to it. That snorkle should require no cutting of bonnet but you never know. Then I'll cut a hole for the snorkle on my Alloy Craft cooling plate.
I haven't even cleaned the air box yet and it's filthy. AJ, I meant the hole on upper right inside the box. I think it's some kind of resonator. Would it be any use if I blocked it? I'll either wrap or paint the inside of the air box because I want a clean look.
Then I'll add this intake air duct and air filter to it. That snorkle should require no cutting of bonnet but you never know. Then I'll cut a hole for the snorkle on my Alloy Craft cooling plate.
#24
The hole is for the resonator box, blocking it will make it a little louder.
The snorkle will fit but the gap is so small where it it sits under the bonnet and frame, probably around 1/2 inch tops stock
I'd keep the top feed in the airbox lid.
The snorkle will fit but the gap is so small where it it sits under the bonnet and frame, probably around 1/2 inch tops stock
I'd keep the top feed in the airbox lid.
#25
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Then I won't block the resonator box for now. I'll try both of my airbox lids. The one on my car has the top feed fitted. I guess that you can't feel the difference at all. I just love tinkering with my car .
I've read from MB's old thread or somewhere else that I'll have to remove some bar from the front to make the snorkle fit. I think that I'll notice the bar when fitting the snorkle. Anyway, I need to take the front bumper off as I'm changing to LHD headlights. Maybe it's worth removing the number plate plinth at the same time. After that it's good time to go to body shop and get the front painted and extra holes filled. It's a nice coincidence that I won't have to pay for the paint job. It's a shame to fit the number plate to front bumper after the paint job but I don't want to reduce the air flow to radiator by putting the plate in front of it.
I'll have an extra set of RHD facelift headlights after I put these on my car.
I also have these but I'll use only the one with reversing light. I want to be different and put the rear fog light below the rear number plate like on pre-facelift models. I bet that reversing in the dark is much easier with two reversing lights and cree LEDs on both of them . I'll have two spare rear lights with fog light after that.
I've read from MB's old thread or somewhere else that I'll have to remove some bar from the front to make the snorkle fit. I think that I'll notice the bar when fitting the snorkle. Anyway, I need to take the front bumper off as I'm changing to LHD headlights. Maybe it's worth removing the number plate plinth at the same time. After that it's good time to go to body shop and get the front painted and extra holes filled. It's a nice coincidence that I won't have to pay for the paint job. It's a shame to fit the number plate to front bumper after the paint job but I don't want to reduce the air flow to radiator by putting the plate in front of it.
I'll have an extra set of RHD facelift headlights after I put these on my car.
I also have these but I'll use only the one with reversing light. I want to be different and put the rear fog light below the rear number plate like on pre-facelift models. I bet that reversing in the dark is much easier with two reversing lights and cree LEDs on both of them . I'll have two spare rear lights with fog light after that.
#26
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The summer arrived very fast. Water surface temperatures on smaller lakes were already 18 degrees yesterday. The nights are quite bright and getting brigther. The following photos have been taken yesterday after 10:30 PM.
The interior of my car
Civic and 'Nob' in the same picture:
Eventually it started getting darker but you can easily see whole night with no lights outside.
I'm sorry to have a poor camera and no time to adjust the images.
The interior of my car
Civic and 'Nob' in the same picture:
Eventually it started getting darker but you can easily see whole night with no lights outside.
I'm sorry to have a poor camera and no time to adjust the images.
#27
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I'm going to do my first track day on Friday! At first I'll have to drive 250 miles to the track. I wish that it will be nice and sunny day. We'll have less than 20 cars on the track for eight hours. There will be at least three S2000's.
I guess that these RE050 rears won't last a track day.
I think that I'm going to use my OEM v1 wheels with decent Asymmetrics. I don't know whether they are any good for track. Have you people tried them on track? After that asymmetrics are worn out, I'll buy A048's or other good tyres for track. I'm not sure what tyres to use on SE37K's. I quite like the RE050's but I can't wait to try to the Asymmetrics. I can't afford buying new wheels yet after putting too much money on cars recently . My next road tyres will be either RE050's, Asymmetrics or AD08's.
One wheel quickly cleaned, 3 to go.
Finished cleaning with Kleers wheels cleaner. I have bought Iron-X recently and I'll try it later. I wish that it will remove most of contaminants from the spokes.
I'm going to put my Dixcel brakes and HEL brake lines on my 'Nob' and change the fuilds on Thursday. I think that ATE Super Blue will be good enough for me at this point. I'm going to be Dixcel equipped soon!
I don't have time or money to bolt the the braces and exhaust yet. I'll do them at the same time with the head and tail lights. I need to get the FlashPro from Glen first. It will be interesting to see whether there will be any improvement in performance and handling after bolting the parts on and a remap. I don't have a hoist but luckily I know a decent mechanic. They serviced my 'Nob' for free because I tend to take care of their computers. I brought my own OEM parts and they took care of everything. They'll do the brakes too but at this time I'll have to pay.
Do I need to get the wheel alignment done after changing the wheels and brakes? The wheel specs are as follows:
Front 17" x 7.0", +55 offset vs. 17" x 7½", ET 40
Rear 17" x 8.5", +65 offset vs. 17" x 8,5", ET 40
I guess that these RE050 rears won't last a track day.
I think that I'm going to use my OEM v1 wheels with decent Asymmetrics. I don't know whether they are any good for track. Have you people tried them on track? After that asymmetrics are worn out, I'll buy A048's or other good tyres for track. I'm not sure what tyres to use on SE37K's. I quite like the RE050's but I can't wait to try to the Asymmetrics. I can't afford buying new wheels yet after putting too much money on cars recently . My next road tyres will be either RE050's, Asymmetrics or AD08's.
One wheel quickly cleaned, 3 to go.
Finished cleaning with Kleers wheels cleaner. I have bought Iron-X recently and I'll try it later. I wish that it will remove most of contaminants from the spokes.
I'm going to put my Dixcel brakes and HEL brake lines on my 'Nob' and change the fuilds on Thursday. I think that ATE Super Blue will be good enough for me at this point. I'm going to be Dixcel equipped soon!
I don't have time or money to bolt the the braces and exhaust yet. I'll do them at the same time with the head and tail lights. I need to get the FlashPro from Glen first. It will be interesting to see whether there will be any improvement in performance and handling after bolting the parts on and a remap. I don't have a hoist but luckily I know a decent mechanic. They serviced my 'Nob' for free because I tend to take care of their computers. I brought my own OEM parts and they took care of everything. They'll do the brakes too but at this time I'll have to pay.
Do I need to get the wheel alignment done after changing the wheels and brakes? The wheel specs are as follows:
Front 17" x 7.0", +55 offset vs. 17" x 7½", ET 40
Rear 17" x 8.5", +65 offset vs. 17" x 8,5", ET 40