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Leaking roof

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Old 01-13-2014, 01:54 AM
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Default Leaking roof

With all this heavy rain my car is literally wet through, puddle in boot, wet carpets from leaking seals, leg covered in water when braking etc etc.

Part of the issue is seals which I will grease up, however Im sure the roof is now porous (its 14yrs old). I 303'd it a long time ago but wasnt really that amazed with its waterproofing. What is the best waterproofing roof treatment?

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Old 01-13-2014, 02:22 AM
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I don't think that's your problem

A lot of people end up dislodging this small white bracket which applies pressure to the door window making the seal with the window and the roof quite tight.

Without the bracket the water comes in quite easily, nobody really knows where these go and end up throwing them away however they are quite important.

They are suppose to clip to the outer door skin at the top plastic seal, you will need to partially remove the rubber outer window seal to be able to fix it back in place, 15min job.

If you want some details I can show you

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Old 01-13-2014, 02:23 AM
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P.S. Yes door card out in order to get the bracket
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:21 AM
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It's never been an issue before until theses mega storms

I think the water gets into the seal from the roof too as it's spilt there.
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Old 01-13-2014, 11:05 AM
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Not sure about the window guide thing , white plastic. god know's how long mine had been in the bottom of the door, fitting them seems to me to make didly squit differnce, they exert very little presure if any on the glass. Lots are in the bottom of doors. My roof doesent leak , my sons does and his are in position. There are drawings that show where they go. But taking those top out side rubbers of is a bit a trip into the unkown , had mine off a couple of times it's alway a bit of a tooth gritter. Bent one last time, they will striaghten but you have to take care and you ideally want them slightly beyound straight when refitting so they sit down snuggly. There are screws and bits and bobs that need to be taken out to facilitate easy removal. So its eyes first before launching in!!!

We sorted my sons roof this weekend as follows:-

1) Greased all rubbers and seals with white water proof silicone grease no it wasent shitsu whoof whoof !

2) Check all the rubbers are properly secure and sitting in tight , especially the ones at the top and rear of the door opening , where bodies rub agianst them , especially my fat body !

2) Removed roof catches , slot the fixing holes to allow adjustment of the catch to the rear of the car, to pull the roof slightly tighter into the windscreen. Change screws for M6 stainless bolts , spring and flat washers about bolts 15mm long. Move the catch back no more than 3mm to start or the hook will damage further the " keep" where the hook sits.

3) You might find the "Keep" is already worn and damaged, but if you look carefully this makes little differance once te catch has been moved back. On my car so bad i actually had to mod the "keep" to allow the hook to sit in fully and bottom out , bit of bodgery with a drill etc

4) Now the "keeps" or latch plate or what ever , the bit bolted to the windscreen surround. This needs to be packed down into the car. This will pull the leading edge of the roof lower and tighter into the seals. This helps all around and stops rattles and creaks. We made bespoke stainless steel packers each with 2 holes totalling 3.6mm per side. Fitted with new longer stainless steel M6 CSK socket head bolts. You could use mudguard washers ( big ones ) This also reduces wind noise as the leading edge of the roof is puled down more in line with the rubbers around the front of the roof , Toby's roof is now in fact lower if anything. Might have another go at mine!

5) While you have the catches of the roof you will find one of the many rattles is in fact the plastic trims around the body of the catch, easy cure, stick a flat blade screw driver between the trim and body open the gap a bit and stick a Prit Pad or bit of padded double sided tape in the gap, hey presto no rattles.

Can't guarantee this will work , but Toby phoned this morning to say he was rattle free and dry , at 7 00 am
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Joeh View Post
P.S. Yes door card out in order to get the bracket
Show me this bracket - my driver's window rattles like a bitch and I remember chucking a white plastic thing away!!
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:03 PM
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Jack Swans Si ?
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:22 PM
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Nut, it's bit of white nylon 70 x 30 or so with a bit of black velvet rubbing strake , to be found rattling about in the bottom of both S2000 doors , one per door.

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Old 01-13-2014, 02:26 PM
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I'd be interested to hear about this piece of nylon as I found something that sounds like you describe under the driver's seat. I thought it was a window squeegee or something, does this sound right? My drivers door is rattly to close when the window is down, whereas the passengers is fine and also have no leaks at all that side!
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by s2k_Nut View Post
Jack Swans Si ?
Tempting but that means I need to fix rusty arches, noisy gearbox and respray ring bumper. Don't know if I want to invest all that in a 155k 14yr old car or just run into ground . House DIY and work travel takes up so much time I never get round to sorting anything which is a shame as when it's all cleaned up its looks awesome.

Also having a car I don't care that much about doesn't half make it fast .

So what stuff is better than 303? Might try that. I've packed there latch hooks with cut offs of silicon tubing. Will release the seals too, inside and out. Didn't help today as it's was sunny so left window open at work, forgot about until someone made a joke about my car in the torrential storm at 4pm

Here's a token pic
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