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new Brakes! Schmooookin!

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Old 12-28-2006, 09:11 AM
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hyb
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Default new Brakes! Schmooookin!

Had new discs and pads fitted today, Bremtech discs and Ferodo ds2500 pads. On the way home bedding them in I stopped at a set of traffic lights and LOTS of smoke came pouring out from the front wheels, I'm guessing this is normal? The discs did come in some kind of grease in the packaging, I'm guessing this is just being burnt off, they certainly stop well. The guy driving a focus opposite me was pointing and waving like a nutter before i drove off

Or is something not right ?
Old 12-28-2006, 09:18 AM
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Probably just the cack being burnt off - if it continues then examine for pads binding (lots of heat and some smoke!)

You would like to think the garage had degreased the discs, lubed the calipers and advised you on collection to - 'bed them in gently over the next 100miles or so' -
(to avoid glazing risk of warping etc.)

But maybe not?
Old 12-29-2006, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by hyb,Dec 28 2006, 10:11 AM
Had new discs and pads fitted today, Bremtech discs and Ferodo ds2500 pads. On the way home bedding them in I stopped at a set of traffic lights and LOTS of smoke came pouring out from the front wheels, I'm guessing this is normal? The discs did come in some kind of grease in the packaging, I'm guessing this is just being burnt off, they certainly stop well. The guy driving a focus opposite me was pointing and waving like a nutter before i drove off

Or is something not right ?
The garage should have at least cleaned the binging surfaces before fitment....

how's the damper, done much fiddling with the settings?
Old 12-29-2006, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Katyushin,Dec 28 2006, 06:18 PM
'bed them in gently over the next 100miles or so' -
You DO NOT do this with DS2500 pads!
Ferodo include a leaflet with them indicating the bedding in process.
It also highlights that these are designed mainly for track / club use.

Setting 2500s involves building increasing heat in the pad which affects the material and sets it off properly. This can be done my moderate braking, repeatedly every few seconds - against the brakes if you dont have a fast open track nearby.

You may already have knackered them. Get back to the garage and get them to read the install notes as they obviously 'do so many of these every week' its a piece of cake

I have used these so speak from personal experience.
Old 12-29-2006, 08:51 AM
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I cained the feck out of mine from fitting - LOADS of smoke. They've been fine ever since.
Old 12-29-2006, 09:37 AM
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So far thats - gently bed them in (NO,DON'T DO THAT!), followed by 'repeated moderate braking every few seconds if your not near a track', or caning the feck out of them....quite consistent advice I'd say!

Particularly for a pad that's supplied ready to use (Ferodo's words - not mine) - but thats just a personal experience for you....


Old 12-29-2006, 09:47 AM
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The ferodo ds2500 do need using to be bed them in. From memory (and there is a leaflet included in the pad box)Ferodo recommend 40 moderate applications to get them hot, and then allow them to fully cool. I did this with mine, there was no smoke, and they seem to be working fine.

Did you really cane them or just drive normally? if you drove normally and then smoked, something is wrong.
Old 12-29-2006, 07:33 PM
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It was just the once they did it about 15 mins after fitting. I think it was probably whatever spray was used to take off the grease, they certainly work well now
Old 01-04-2007, 03:20 PM
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Copy of the leaflet supplied by Ferodo, (not the little elven dude)

BEDDING-IN INSTRUCTIONS

To achieve optimum performance from Ferodo Racing brake pads please follow the instructions below:

1) Perform 25 to 30 trial brake applications, each of approximately 4 seconds, using around 50% of normal race pedal pressure. To shorten the procedure applications can be made along the straights as well as through bends.

2) On completion of trial applications return to the pit lane. Inspect the surface of the brake pads from the two wheels which have been working the hardest. There should be evidence of contact over the full pad area but without glazing. The pads are now ready to race.

Whilst we recommend that pads are inspected, if time does not allow this, assuming procedure (1) has been carried out and a short period of time has elapsed to allow the brake system to cool, the pads will be ready to race.

IMPORTANT: to optimize the performance and life of both brake pads and discs, during the bedding-in period heat in the braking system should be built up progressively.

PAD WEAR INSPECTION: brake pads must have at least 2mm of friction material. Excessively worn brake pads must be replaced.

THERMAL PAINT TEMPERATURE CHECK; Where this procedure is used and braking performance is not considered satisfactory: if none of the 3 paints has changed appearance it may be necessary to reduce cooling to the discs. If all 3 paints have changed appearance, it may be necessary to increase cooling to the discs.


*********************** from elsewhere ********************

Green Fade
This is perhaps the most dangerous type of fade that has injured more race car drivers than any other type of brake incident.

Green fade is a type of fade that manifests itself on brand new brake pads. Brake pads are usually made of different types of heat resistant materials bound together with a phenolic resin binder. These are thermosetting plastic resins with a high heat resistance. On a new brake pad, these resins will out-gas or cure when used hard on their first few heat cycles. The new pad can hydroplane on this layer of excreted gas. Green fade is dangerous because many people assume that new brakes are perfect and can be used hard right off the bat. Green fade typically will occur much earlier than normal fade so it can catch a driver that is used to a certain car
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