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PLX Wideband install

 
Old 04-18-2015, 06:17 AM
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Default PLX Wideband install

Hi All,

Just thought it might be worth mentioning this great piece of kit i picked up this week while i was off work.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1214346973...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Im planning on getting AJ to sort me out with a AEM EMS and a map so getting a wideband was something i wanted for piece of mind.

On a side note my car had started stuttering and running rough at about 2500rpm-4000rpm. Only on light throttle readings and it made the car abit of a pain to drive. I changed the O2 sensor about 18 months ago and using my scangauge i could see it was giving some pretty weird voltage readings or showing 0 volts and taking ages to react.

I decided that an O2 sensor is the best part of £100 brand new and they are still pretty old hat in terms of technology as wideband sensors have moved on a long way since the original oxygen sensors. You can now get a wideband sensor/gauge and control box for £150 brand new.

To install the PLX kit its pretty straight forward. You have to perform the following steps

1. Remove factory O2 sensor from the manifold
2. Tie the factory O2 sensor to the structure that the gearbox wraps too. You need to be wary that the sensor will still get hot because it will still be connected to the wiring loom on the car. By retaining the sensor and having it connected up you dont have to mess about with any resistors to fool the ecu into believing the O2's heating circuit is working
3. Install the wideband sensor.
4. Run the 10ft O2 sensor loom from the drivers footwell through the bulkhead near the drivers pedal. Then run the loom along the bulkhead and down beneath the inlet manifold. You can then cable tie it along the route to secure it but leaving some slack to allow for engine movement. Once the loom drops below the inlet manifold you should be able to pull it down from underneath and over the gearbox and connect it directly to the new wideband sensor. The loom has a protective sheath but ensure that you keep it away from any moving parts.
5. Mount the gauge where ever you want it. I currently have mine mounted on the dash next to my oil pressure gauge but the plan in the long term is to move it into a SOS door pilar pod
6. Mount the control box in a hidden place. I have mine behind the dash. Ensure you put all the connectors in. At the same time you need to fit the narrowband grey wire into the aux plug.



7. Find a 12v ignition supply from the fuseboard. There are several posts about this throughout the forum. I use a supply from the fuseboard which then separates into a after market fuseboard and runs to the gauge. Make sure you run a inline fuse to protect against possible electrical fires if there is a short to the chassis
8. Connect the gauge wiring up so that the gauge powers up. Switch it off once you know the gauge has a supply
9. You now need to gain access to the factory ECU. This is mounted in the passenger footwell. To gain access you need to remove the kick panel along the door seal and then remove the trim that runs along the footwell. You should then be able to lift the carpet up and gain access to the ecu.
10. The ECU uses security bolts and they are a pain to remove, the best i can suggest is to hit a socket on to the bolts and then loosen them off. Its time consuming and annoying and it would be well worth sourcing some new M6 bolts to replace the old ones.
11. Once the ecu is out you need to look at the connectors and find connector c pin 16. This is a white wire that if you was to trace it back goes all the way back to the factory oxygen sensor.
12. You need to cut this wire and connect the ECU side up to the grey wire out of the Wideband controller.

Tidy everything up start the car up and check for exhaust leaks and engine check lights.

Basically you now have converted your slow factory narrowband sensor to a fast responding (40ms) wideband sensor. The controller measures the air fuel ratio and sends a simulated narrowband voltage so the standard ecu gets to use a fast responding signal. My car runs so much smoother with the PLX on low throttle positions now. Plus i can now see what the stock ECU is doing and it holds a perfect 14.7 AFR during light throttle cruising and the stuttering i was suffering from has completely gone.

I wasnt 100% convinced the simulated narrowband would work well but its very fast responding and the car is running perfect fueling wise. I have found that my car runs quite lean at higher revs, normally about 13.9 at high revs and


I will be changing my PLX to output the 0-5v required for the AEM EMS that im getting soon.

Here is a photo of the gauge in graph mode which is handy for seeing any lumps or bumps in the fuel air ratio across the rev range



The gauge also shows warnings based on how lean the mixture is and can also display high and low AFR so if you miss an event you can go through the touch screen gauge options.

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Old 04-18-2015, 07:53 AM
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A wise investment at that price and as an upgrade if the oem fails in the future nice gauge
AEM EMS
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Old 04-18-2015, 08:13 AM
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Same as me :-) Great set up, also have the temp module as well.
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:20 AM
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I've got the same set up ready to fit
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Old 04-18-2015, 02:56 PM
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Oh and if people just wanted to use the kit to replace the stock narrowband and not have the fancy gauge then you can buy it with the wideband controller and sensor and do without the gauge. It would probably work out cheaper than a brand new OEM sensor.
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Old 08-12-2018, 01:36 PM
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Fitted mine today,
runs a little smoother all round.
Thanks for the how too Mark came in very use full.
12v supply from fuse board <C>
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...lenoid-951029/
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Old 03-31-2019, 01:37 AM
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I know this post is 4 years old but to give a rough idea on sensor life i have found that after two years they tend to fail. This is based on my s2000 and my brothers r53 mini turbo

The symptoms i found

- Very slow reaction time as seen on the gauge screen(700ms rather than the 40ms i used to get)
- When idling after first start up the sensor used to be pretty spot on but now it goes full lean and then to the correct reading whilst the engine is running which suggest its slow
- Wideband health monitor displayed 10% this morning (not always very accurate but its never that low) It also tends to read lean rather than AIR

I have changed mine once before in june 2017 and now again it needs changing. I would suspect this is more down to my use of negative timing on over run to cause abit of pop and bang and burble. I have been known in the past to also bash the rev limiter abit. I would imagine on an NA car they would last ages as they aren't seeing such harsh conditions.

I found that the original PLX sensor had no serial numbers on it and when asking for a direct replacement they sent me a sensor with the following part number 0258017025

Rather than buy it from PLX that sensor is available from amazon for next day delivery.
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:48 AM
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interesting as my LSU 4.9 just died too, i found this article

Why Bosch LSU wide-band air/fuel ratio (or Lambda) sensors fail so often in aftermarket performance applications - NZEFI

basically it suggests get it close to the engine, condensation is the killer but also the controller heating the sensor can be a problem.. and running rich
i suspect my school runs kill mine and the winter use..

the PLX looks shitloads better than my AEM.. is it easy setup with AEM ecu?
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Old 04-01-2019, 12:25 PM
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Yeah its easy, give it a power supply and run the long loom that comes with it to the sensor. You end up connecting it to the wideband pin on the AEM EMS. I just spliced cut it into the loom where the old narrowband sensor used to go.

Its funny you mention that article regarding the heating of the sensor. I only read that yesterday myself. Make sense that really you need a proper controller integrated into the ECU. My brother has a Link G4 ecuon his mini and that has a canbus wideband option but it is big money.I think if i remember correctly the infinity has a wideband controller?

Do you have the sensor fitted in the same location as the OEM sensor or do you have it further down in a decat?
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Old 04-01-2019, 01:20 PM
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i had mine in the decat but am gonna move the new one to the primary spot in the stock header i think..

if i can get to it.. i sometimes run a high flow cat too.. nothing has helped .. i need my 3rd in 4 years now so they are lasting 2 years but bog all miles. having said that 2 have been in during extended tuning..

hmm
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