Prospective new owner - What to watch for
#1
Thread Starter
Prospective new owner - What to watch for
Hi,
I am actively looking for an S2000 to join my 2015 Type R for the sunny days easier driving. However I really don't know what to be watchful for when looking at S2000's for sale.
Can anyone either point me to a thread or help in pointing out the issues and what I should steer clear of.?
Love to pick one up fairly soon..
Many thanks in advance..
I am actively looking for an S2000 to join my 2015 Type R for the sunny days easier driving. However I really don't know what to be watchful for when looking at S2000's for sale.
Can anyone either point me to a thread or help in pointing out the issues and what I should steer clear of.?
Love to pick one up fairly soon..
Many thanks in advance..
#4
This is usually the best starting point
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-irela...v2-1-a-301506/
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-irela...t-etc-1085229/
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-irela...v2-1-a-301506/
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-irela...t-etc-1085229/
Last edited by Soggybottomboy; 04-25-2017 at 10:51 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Largey (04-25-2017)
#5
Some things I wish I knew before I started looking:
1) The clutch biting point is abnormally high in an S; this is normal behavior. Can be reduced slightly with a clutch bleed (best piece of work i've done so far).
2) Clutch Buzz which affects anything younger than 2002 (I think!?) is a wierd buzzy metallicy sound on decel around 4krpm to 2krpm. Consensus is not to worry but can be used for haggling if its loud enough.
3) TCT (Timing chain tensioner) - it's desirable to have had this replaced recently.
4) Offset tyre sizes - ensure the correct 205 size at the front and 225 size at the rear has been adhered to.
5) Position steering wheel 100% left, get out and check the outer and inner side of front tyres for tread. Then 100% right, re-check. The inside side of one of my tyres was very badly worn.
6) Check under the tool kit in the boot for moisture or a puddle. I didn't do this and again, I lived to regret it.
7) Pop the air filter cover off (it's so, so easy) and check the condition of the filter. Even if the car has paperwork do this, because despite apparently having been changed by a garage, mine definitely hadn't been. Use for haggling.
8) Rear arches are quite prone to rust. Peel back the arch cover and stick your finger in there and have a poke around.
That's about all I can think of apart from general standard car checks i.e. ensure the panels all line up, that the history checks out, well maintained, etc. Take your time, make sure you have a really good look for rust. Also, ask when the drains were last unblocked. You'll probably be met with a shrug... again, haggling point!
Cheers,
Matt
1) The clutch biting point is abnormally high in an S; this is normal behavior. Can be reduced slightly with a clutch bleed (best piece of work i've done so far).
2) Clutch Buzz which affects anything younger than 2002 (I think!?) is a wierd buzzy metallicy sound on decel around 4krpm to 2krpm. Consensus is not to worry but can be used for haggling if its loud enough.
3) TCT (Timing chain tensioner) - it's desirable to have had this replaced recently.
4) Offset tyre sizes - ensure the correct 205 size at the front and 225 size at the rear has been adhered to.
5) Position steering wheel 100% left, get out and check the outer and inner side of front tyres for tread. Then 100% right, re-check. The inside side of one of my tyres was very badly worn.
6) Check under the tool kit in the boot for moisture or a puddle. I didn't do this and again, I lived to regret it.
7) Pop the air filter cover off (it's so, so easy) and check the condition of the filter. Even if the car has paperwork do this, because despite apparently having been changed by a garage, mine definitely hadn't been. Use for haggling.
8) Rear arches are quite prone to rust. Peel back the arch cover and stick your finger in there and have a poke around.
That's about all I can think of apart from general standard car checks i.e. ensure the panels all line up, that the history checks out, well maintained, etc. Take your time, make sure you have a really good look for rust. Also, ask when the drains were last unblocked. You'll probably be met with a shrug... again, haggling point!
Cheers,
Matt
The following users liked this post:
Largey (04-26-2017)
#6
Originally Posted by Matt1783
Some things I wish I knew before I started looking:
1) The clutch biting point is abnormally high in an S; this is normal behavior. Can be reduced slightly with a clutch bleed (best piece of work i've done so far).
2) Clutch Buzz which affects anything younger than 2002 (I think!?) is a wierd buzzy metallicy sound on decel around 4krpm to 2krpm. Consensus is not to worry but can be used for haggling if its loud enough.
3) TCT (Timing chain tensioner) - it's desirable to have had this replaced recently.
4) Offset tyre sizes - ensure the correct 205 size at the front and 225 size at the rear has been adhered to.
5) Position steering wheel 100% left, get out and check the outer and inner side of front tyres for tread. Then 100% right, re-check. The inside side of one of my tyres was very badly worn.
6) Check under the tool kit in the boot for moisture or a puddle. I didn't do this and again, I lived to regret it.
7) Pop the air filter cover off (it's so, so easy) and check the condition of the filter. Even if the car has paperwork do this, because despite apparently having been changed by a garage, mine definitely hadn't been. Use for haggling.
8) Rear arches are quite prone to rust. Peel back the arch cover and stick your finger in there and have a poke around.
That's about all I can think of apart from general standard car checks i.e. ensure the panels all line up, that the history checks out, well maintained, etc. Take your time, make sure you have a really good look for rust. Also, ask when the drains were last unblocked. You'll probably be met with a shrug... again, haggling point!
Cheers,
Matt
1) The clutch biting point is abnormally high in an S; this is normal behavior. Can be reduced slightly with a clutch bleed (best piece of work i've done so far).
2) Clutch Buzz which affects anything younger than 2002 (I think!?) is a wierd buzzy metallicy sound on decel around 4krpm to 2krpm. Consensus is not to worry but can be used for haggling if its loud enough.
3) TCT (Timing chain tensioner) - it's desirable to have had this replaced recently.
4) Offset tyre sizes - ensure the correct 205 size at the front and 225 size at the rear has been adhered to.
5) Position steering wheel 100% left, get out and check the outer and inner side of front tyres for tread. Then 100% right, re-check. The inside side of one of my tyres was very badly worn.
6) Check under the tool kit in the boot for moisture or a puddle. I didn't do this and again, I lived to regret it.
7) Pop the air filter cover off (it's so, so easy) and check the condition of the filter. Even if the car has paperwork do this, because despite apparently having been changed by a garage, mine definitely hadn't been. Use for haggling.
8) Rear arches are quite prone to rust. Peel back the arch cover and stick your finger in there and have a poke around.
That's about all I can think of apart from general standard car checks i.e. ensure the panels all line up, that the history checks out, well maintained, etc. Take your time, make sure you have a really good look for rust. Also, ask when the drains were last unblocked. You'll probably be met with a shrug... again, haggling point!
Cheers,
Matt
The following users liked this post:
Largey (04-26-2017)
#8
S2000's are prone to seized bushes and seized brake calipers. After a spirited test drive - check the heat from the wheels - this will be a good indicator of whether any are binding. The rears are the worst. Bushes unfortunately are a little harder to diagnose, if I were looking for another one then I would want piece of mind that these had been greased.
The following users liked this post:
Largey (04-26-2017)