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Rear arches

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Old 07-11-2017, 04:39 AM
  #101
 
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For those that have had their rear arches replaced, can anyone recommend a provider of a replacement rear quarter panel?
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Old 07-12-2017, 08:58 AM
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As far as I found the only options were oem from Honda £1500 a side, or find good used which is what I did. Used prices vary but I managed to get a (non matching) pair for £350. The pit fall with used is you don't know what is inside, one of mine was very good the other had started to go but was salvageable (see page 1). I guess there is also custom made but no idea how much that would be.
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Old 07-12-2017, 09:20 AM
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Old 07-12-2017, 11:01 AM
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Mine was cavity waxed, undersealed and the paint looked after. Its a 2001, daily for years and has winters

there's tiny amount of corrosion. It depends on the owner to some extent ime
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Old 07-14-2017, 03:26 AM
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Outer skin only, I also needed inner arches. I had still doubled nearly the price though as I mis-interpreted parts 4 & 10 this diagram as the inner and outer section Honda Car and Auto Parts | Honda S2000 | FLOOR/INNER PANELS | Genuine Honda Parts | Honda Cars | Honda Motorcycles | Honda Power Products | Lings Honda Car Parts Selection
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Old 07-18-2017, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by E4RTH WORM JIM View Post
Bad idea in my opinion. You'll get stones and all sorts of shit flying around in there.

Just sort the paintwork and refit.
Spoke to bodyshop manager and there was confusion on my part - only recommending the removal of the thin rubber trim on the rear arches - he pulled one off to show me the retained mud/moisture (on a dry day). Front arch liners definitely being retained.
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Old 07-18-2017, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Paper Lawyer View Post
Spoke to bodyshop manager and there was confusion on my part - only recommending the removal of the thin rubber trim on the rear arches - he pulled one off to show me the retained mud/moisture (on a dry day). Front arch liners definitely being retained.
hmmmmm problem is the inner and outer arches are spotwelded so remove the trim and the smallest amount of water and crud will start to create problems. Added to that is the problem created by stone chips etc.

The best way to prolong the problem is to ensure the trim is completely sealed from the elements. A tight seal and no water or crud can get between.
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:04 AM
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Thank you to all those who have contributed to this thread. After investigating my MY07, it was in need of some remedial work. Nothing too serious, but if I had left it another year, then the rust might have started to become a different story. One place which does need some constant attention is the area covered by a rubber protector at the bottom front of the rear wheel arch. It really does collect a lot of mud, which was starting to corrode the bodywork. Fortunately, Hydrate 80, two coats of Electrox and Hammerite and a liberal application of Bilt Hamber Dynax-UB has returned it to its former glory.
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