In a few weeks I'm going to remove the O2 sensor and replace it with a Wideband sensor with the stock ECU in place.

Now I would have assumed with the stock sensor removed this is likely to cause a CEL so what is the way around this?

 

2 issues you'll have.

The signal from the wb is different.

The old o2 sensor will flag an issue when removed.

The controller on my wb enables me to output either signal. So with the stock ecu i can get a simulated o2 to replace the stock o2.

The ecl you get is due to the o2 pre heater not being there. To get sound this you can add a resistor into the stock o2 plug pocket. I have one here if you need. Plug gu in and tape it up.

 

Aaah, So essentially just bung the resistor into the old O2 sensors cable (Where the sensor went) and send a 'cheat' signal back to the ecu?

I'll take the resistor off you if you dont need it then Bibbs.

I have a PLX wideband AFR and gauge arriving tommorow.

So am I correct in doing the following:

1) Remove old sensor.
2) Fit Wideband sensor.
3) Bung old sensor cable up with resistor.
4) Fit appropriatte cable to new sensor and monitor away.

Or have I missed something?

 

Yup .. there must be an "output" from the wideband though.

You'll need to tap a wire into the ECU for this.

I got the resistors from Maplin, I'll have a search of my posts, as ther was a good guide for this ..

 

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...5&#entry8944486

 

Thanks Bibbs.

So plugging the resistor doesnt completely fool the ecu then.

I would have assumed (apologies on my naevity) that the PLX device and the wideband sensor could do their function fine so they were independant of the ecu.

As the stock sensor cable is bunged up with a resistor a fake signal would have been passed back to the ecu therefore the ecu would assume all is well.

 

The resistor is only for the pre-heater.

There is still no O2 signal being sent back to the ECU.

This is the one link between the wideband and the ECU .. the WB reads in AFR, displays on the gauge in AFR, and then outputs a pretend signal to the ECU.

 

Ahh sorry about that I got it wrong. So the Wideband in this case sends a narrowband output back to the ecu.


Im sure this install is going to go "smoothly"

 

That's the one.

I cut the stock loom, and put a bullet connector on the narrowband wire. Then I could just put a matching connector on the WB output, so it was easily reversable.

 

Good idea. I'll make sure its all easily transferable to go back to stock.