S2000 handling issue
#11
I take it you still want to be driving it come April?
#12
Hi, yes i owned a facelift s2000 a few years ago and i loved it, regret selling it back then but hey oh, so i thought i want to get into another one and only a pre-facelift car was within budget. So i've got to learn to live with this lol :/
Richmc, i think you're misunderstanding what i mean, say you're in second gear on a long straight (national speed limit), and you accelerate till you get to about 4-5000 rpm and let go, it yanks to the left, or on a quite road doing 10 mph you quickly move the steering from one side to the other, it feels like a swaying boat - rest assured none of these "tests" were conducted in a ridiculous manner, all on safe roads within the speed limits.
Richmc, i think you're misunderstanding what i mean, say you're in second gear on a long straight (national speed limit), and you accelerate till you get to about 4-5000 rpm and let go, it yanks to the left, or on a quite road doing 10 mph you quickly move the steering from one side to the other, it feels like a swaying boat - rest assured none of these "tests" were conducted in a ridiculous manner, all on safe roads within the speed limits.
#13
I suspected as much, as these are known to have handling issues due to the anti-dive geometry Honda built into the suspension set up of the early cars. Sadly this is a trait that makes them very nervous and quick to spin in lift-off situations that wasn't corrected until the face-lift car (identified by the different front bumper and 17" wheels). This issue is why you see so many written-off early S2000s and is why these cars get a bit of a reputation for not being friendly to novice rear wheel drive peeps. The later car is much easier to drive without the lift-off oversteer issues (not that that helps you) and is much more tolerant of ham-fisted driving. The only thing I can suggest is to drive it like an old school 911 - slow in and fast out, so you don't have to lift-off and risk a spin.
If the OP's car is as nervous as he describes, something is not right with it.
#14
Having owned both versions and driven them extensively on track and road, i disagree. The MY00 was a lot more 'pointy' but not enough to throw you off the road if you loosen your grip on the steering wheel.
If the OP's car is as nervous as he describes, something is not right with it.
If the OP's car is as nervous as he describes, something is not right with it.
It is a fact that the earlier cars (due to the anti-dive geometry) are more nervous than the later cars (whether you agree or not ). An experienced rear wheel drive driver (like yourself) may like it that way, but not everyone does.....
#15
UK Moderator
This thread has nothing to do with lift off over steer, the swaying is happening whilst driving in a straight line and lifting off the throttle. the only time this happened to me was in my MY09 car when a rear tyre was at a very low pressure (the day I got it, incidentally - turned out to be a dodgy valve letting air out slowly).
#16
This thread has nothing to do with lift off over steer, the swaying is happening whilst driving in a straight line and lifting off the throttle. the only time this happened to me was in my MY09 car when a rear tyre was at a very low pressure (the day I got it, incidentally - turned out to be a dodgy valve letting air out slowly).
One thing to check is the rear diff bushes and bolts. If these are buggered, then the lurching effect you are getting could possibly be the unwinding of the torque reaction of the diff if the bushes are worn / split - especially if it only does it one particular way each time.
#17
I didn't say it happened if you loosen your grip on the steering wheel . Lift off oversteer is nothing to do with keeping your hands on the steering wheel, it is to do with the in-built geometry of the car in question when the throttle is lifted mid-corner with the suspension loaded up. Some cars have a propensity to want to slide more than others when this happens. The ant-dive geometry of the earlier cars make these more prone to do so than than the later cars. Obviously in the dry and with a quick-witted driver used to rear wheel drive, it will make the car feel more "pointy" as you can use the throttle lift-off oversteer to turn the car quicker, but for the novice driver (especially with the slippery roads at this time of year), it can catch them out.
It is a fact that the earlier cars (due to the anti-dive geometry) are more nervous than the later cars (whether you agree or not ). An experienced rear wheel drive driver (like yourself) may like it that way, but not everyone does.....
It is a fact that the earlier cars (due to the anti-dive geometry) are more nervous than the later cars (whether you agree or not ). An experienced rear wheel drive driver (like yourself) may like it that way, but not everyone does.....
I appreciate the earlier cars are more prone to lift off oversteer, but what the OP describes is much more than that. Either revision, when healthy, shouldn't feel dangerous or like a boat.
OP- when you said you had the geo done, was that a full 4 wheel geo with camber and castor or just the front wheels?
Last edited by lower; 12-06-2016 at 07:43 AM.
#18
UK Moderator
If you read, the tyres have all been checked and corrected and it still has the same trait....
One thing to check is the rear diff bushes and bolts. If these are buggered, then the lurching effect you are getting could possibly be the unwinding of the torque reaction of the diff if the bushes are worn / split - especially if it only does it one particular way each time.
One thing to check is the rear diff bushes and bolts. If these are buggered, then the lurching effect you are getting could possibly be the unwinding of the torque reaction of the diff if the bushes are worn / split - especially if it only does it one particular way each time.
As suggested, a thorough check of the suspension components would be in order. Also check for play in the hubs, perhaps a seizing calliper as well.
#19
What suspension is on the car ? Standard, Standard shock with lowering springs, Coilovers - Brand ?
I had the same kind of feeling after i polybushed the car and i tightend the bolts up without loading the suspention, i went back and loaded up all corners before tightening the bolts which made it feel better
also another time i had put a bit much preload on my coilovers when refurbing them, and it was like the whole car was floaty and when i took a few mm out of preload it was awesome again untill i crashed the bas*ard
this might not be you case but it might help point in the right direction
I had the same kind of feeling after i polybushed the car and i tightend the bolts up without loading the suspention, i went back and loaded up all corners before tightening the bolts which made it feel better
also another time i had put a bit much preload on my coilovers when refurbing them, and it was like the whole car was floaty and when i took a few mm out of preload it was awesome again untill i crashed the bas*ard
this might not be you case but it might help point in the right direction
#20
Its the flimsy all season single ply sidewall tires. You are experiencing way to much sidewall deflection. The stock S02 and Re50 are very stiff sidewall tires and so an equivalent sidewall spec which are commonly found on Extreme summer category tires are required on this car to get it to handle sharply and predictably. Second to that would be making sure you are running a proper alignment with the focus on rear toe. The car should not be a white knuckle swaying experience performing simple lane changes on the freeway, which I have experienced with inferior/flimsy constructed tires.