S2000 TLC job - Page 2 - S2KI Honda S2000 Forums

UK & Ireland S2000 Community Discussions related to the S2000, its ownership and enthusiasm for it in the UK and Ireland. Including FAQs, and technical questions.

S2000 TLC job

Reply

 
 
 
Old 02-19-2018, 05:36 AM
  #11  
 
ROB1980's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Leicestershire UK
Posts: 637
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Default

Not looked but i'm quite sure mine has rubber bungs/covers where the holes in the sills are, i'm originally from Alfreton so not too far from you although live in Leicestershire currently
ROB1980 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2018, 07:16 AM
  #12  
 
RossP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Mickleover, Derby.
Posts: 216
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by tozerman View Post
I'm in Derby
I'm in Derby too
RossP is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2018, 09:37 AM
  #13  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Derbyshire, UK
Posts: 23
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

Look what I found after pouring over the parts picture.. I researched S2000 tie down points.. Looked in the interior of the car as I was sure I had seen something behind the seats when I first got the car, but thought nothing of it.. Why didn't they refit them after transporting! Would have saved me a rust removal job haha.
R23USS is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2018, 11:04 AM
  #14  
 
tozerman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Biffins Bridge or the Windy
Posts: 1,207
Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts
Default

Yep just checked under my car, definitely has those elongated rubber bungs in..
tozerman is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2018, 11:07 AM
  #15  
 
tozerman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Biffins Bridge or the Windy
Posts: 1,207
Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by RossP View Post
I'm in Derby too
Hi Ross, think we may have met before at a Donnington track day back in Dec 2011.
tozerman is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2018, 10:51 AM
  #16  
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 9
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I've been going through a similar process with my car also starting with the rear, I've sorted the arches and anywhere else showing signs of rust with POR15. I haven't dropped the sub frame though, that will be a job for after the summer because I want to replace the brake lines and I also strongly suspect rust on the tank, given the rust elsewhere. If you need replacement wax hole grommets (number 8 on diagram) these fit perfectly (25mm, blanking) (mine were cracked through). I have lost a single 15mm plastic plug though (number 16) and yet to find a suitable replacement! Also it if makes you feel better having the elongated plugs in place hasn't seemed to have done much to prevent the rust forming around them! If you look closely that particular area is not covered in the factory rust protection stuff for some reason.
tumblindice is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2018, 01:36 AM
  #17  
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 45
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Will be following this thread, as about to go down the rust prevention/fixing route.

Going by your photos, I'd put money on that water getting in to the boot through the mounts for the screws holding the plastic boot trim on - black screw just above your finger in this photo

You can see the back of them if you get your head in the boot, and pour some water directly on them. The way the water drips means it runs across all sorts of panels.

However it could also just be condensation from another leak, hard to tell from just photos! Good luck!
mrcactus is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2018, 10:06 AM
  #18  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Derbyshire, UK
Posts: 23
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

Easy folks!

Bit of an update as I managed to get the rear subframe assembly into our workshop and had an hour at it..

Stripped the left hand side down, the drive shaft was a little tight on in the hub but nothing I can't sort!
So the process I will be taking is; strip, shotblast, paint using Bilt Hamber Electrox and then paint using Hammerite Black.
Anything that won't fit into the shotblast cabinet will be polished down using air tools then the same painting process. I plan to use my injection lance and Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 to treat the subframe internally as I cannot see another way.

Progess will be slow for the next few weeks I think as I work long hours so can't spend a lot of time on the car project.
The next update will hopefully be a partially complete rear subframe refurbishment!
Some assorted pictures to keep you entertained until next time! Haha..

R23USS is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2018, 10:45 AM
  #19  
 
Nottm_S2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 18,700
Thanked 36 Times in 36 Posts
Default

I was wondering whether we'd read about you on the news.. got a bit focussed on a tight bolt and snowed in haha
Nottm_S2 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 12:52 PM
  #20  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Derbyshire, UK
Posts: 23
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Default

Righto! I've had abit of time off skiing these past few weeks that has pushed the car progress back!
Good news! The Milltek group buy has gone ahead, so soon enough I'll have a shiny exhaust under neath to match everything else! I've also just ordered some SpoonSports subframe collars to fit whilst the car is in pieces.

Before I went to Chamonix I sent the rear subframe, rear slam brace and ARB to Lant Lane shotblasting, they will be paintin it with an anti-corrosive prime then black topcoat (hopefully ) I pick them up tomorrow evening!

The rear underside of the car has been fully cleaned using SurfexHD, heavy rust treated with Deox Gel, cleaned, then the entire rear of the car coated with Hydrate80, including spraying into the sills best I could. Once this dried, I painted the areas prone to stone chips and rust exposed areas with Electrox zinc primer. The next stage is to apply the coats of DynaxUB and DynaxUC to painted areas. Above the fuel tank and inside all cavity holes I have sprayed a liberal amount of Dynax S80.




Jobs left to do is to shotblast, primer and paint the RH suspension arms. Paint the RH driveshaft then re-fit everything on the Easter weekend all being well!
Also need to address my water ingress into the boot and treat the boot well with some anti-rust.
R23USS is offline  
Reply With Quote

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service