Blade Fuse size inside box - mini or micro?
 

I'm hard wiring my dash cam and going to buy a fuse tap to the box. Are those blade fuses mini or micro size? Just making sure to buy the right size tap. I remember them to be pretty small and a pain to access. There must be an appropriate empty slot for it too. Sorry about the lazy question. :)

There's both 12v constant and 12v ignition switched spade terminals on the inside fuse block. Someone will have the photo with little arrows. Camera can use an inline fuse all its own and connect there with a simple spade terminal. Ground to any convenient bolt under the dash.

Any reason, though, to not use the 12v always hot connection at the interior light right over the windshield? Would save a lot of wiring if you the camera always powered on or to come on if the car is jostled.

-- Chuck

Mini Fuse

Hey Jon,

This is what Chuck is referring to.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...a6c0bac9d7.jpg

Thanks Chuck. I won't use the inside lights because there's a voltage cutoff box on the wires that won't fit under the a-pillar trim. I'm not even sure about hard wiring it it because some say the voltage cutoff maybe too low and your car may not have enough juice to start.
What size are those blade fuses on the spots you've indicated? I'm planning to buy a fuse tap wire to put in there.

The connectors in the photo are standard 0.25"/6.4mm male blades. Use a female "spade" connector available at auto and hardware stores, not a fuse tap. These are not fused so your camera will need an inline fuse. Doing it this way makes a separate circuit not dependent on some other fuse. If you choose the middle connector the camera will be active all the time. And also suck the battery dry all the time.

-- Chuck

I'm a bit confused. The fuse tap also had a fuse adapter built on top to add a fuse. I thought that would be helpful. I'd like the camera to be functional on parking mode so I need it on all the time. Though the unit does have a voltage regulator with the hardwire kit, I hear they can dip too low for you to start the car. I don't know if there's a easy fix to this without getting another external voltage cutoff limiter. The other option would be to use a USB battery pack and keep it charged. I just hope it doesn't explode in the summer heat..

To my knowledge a "fuse tap" is a kludge/gimmick to tap into the fuse box at the same place as an existing fuse.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....uL._SX569_.jpg

There are three(3) specific empty spade terminals on the inside fuse box to get power with a simple spade connector and not tie into an existing circuit. The ignition tap will turn the power on and off with the engine for example.

Your car will indeed fail to start if the battery voltage gets too low. Known and very effective way to kill the battery is something like a aftermarket alarm (which is no more useful than the OE alarm). A camera system could also do this if it draws sufficient current. Not sure what this draws but my GPS and microwave radio receiver can kill a battery in a week if left connected.

-- Chuck

The voltage cutoff box should go under the dash. It should have it's own fuse. Use a spade plug like this:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...d793f2138d.jpg

Plug the always on wire into D and the switched into C (per the picture above). Done! Or take it somewhere to get hardwired.

If you are using the fuse taps, then you can't really use the terminals pictured, you would plug it into 2 existing fuses.

Are the fuses under the dash ATS or Micro2? The hardwire kit for my dashcam is supposed to cutoff power @ 12V but i'm sure it's not accurate enough to start my car if the power goes too low. I was planning to use the fuse tap method with the hardwire kit. I'd like it to record while it's parked. I had a few hit and runs while parked before.
Any of you guys with dashcam do parking mode? Lately I've been using a portable USB battery pack but it's annoying to charge every few days.
Thanks for the info