Hey guys,

does anyone in here know what ft /tq to torque the bolts back to when removing / re-installing the faces?

Do I need to use lock-tite or anything? Or just torque them right? I think ive heard 25 ft lbs.....can someone confirm or comment?

Thanks.

 

I've heard from a few people that had 2 piece wheels, they just did them as tight as they could without overdoing it, I would make sure to go threw all the bolts twice just in case

 

You would have to check with BBS. They don't give us that information.

 

be sure to use loctite blue as well. i did them as tight as i could but made sure not to spin the socket at all.

 

I want to say that I did mine to 32 or 33ft lb.....can't remember where I got that spec from though. I did not apply new loctite.

Scott-

 

18FTLB

 

^^ how positive are you about 18 ft lbs?

So NO loctite either? or should I use it?

Thanks guys.

 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1022742

from that site... and I quote:

Bolt Pattern & Bolts:
Both the BBS RSs and the RMs have 30 bolts per wheel, and they are the same bolt pattern. 17s should have 35 bolt holes. Torque bolts in a crossing star pattern, just like you would do with lug bolts.

BBS RM bolt torque is 12-15 lb/ft
BBS RS bolt torque is 40 lb/ft
NOTE: Some people have reported that when re-using old wheel bolts that they have experienced breakage to the bolt at 40 lb/ft torque specs. This number was provided by BBS for new and unstretched OEM bolts. Some individuals have suggested that 18 lb/ft is a more reasonable torque setting when re-using old bolts on BBS 3-piece wheels. Use these numbers at YOUR OWN RISK.


Disassembly and Assembly information:
Taking apart your wheels is a piece of cake. It only requires common sense and a little patience. Kodiak suggests to it's racing customers that they take apart and inspect there wheels every year. [This is probably not needed on a street tire.] We have yet to have anyone that hasn't been able to do it on their own. It is important to make sure that the parts are clean when they are reassembled.

Use a 12pt 8mm socket on the bolts and heat the lips up with a heat gun for 5-10 minutes before going at them with a rubber mallet. It should take no longer than 2 hours to have them all apart.

Use a decent 3/8 drive torque wrench and use a crossover method for tighening. After you torque the wheels put a bead of silicone adheasive over the seal on smooth it out. If you are really worried about leaking just put a very thin coat on one day and follow it up with a second coat 24 hours later.


Sealing Wheel Shells:
1. Clean the mating surfaces with laquer thinner and let dry.
2. Bolt the two shells together "DRY" and torque to spec.
3. Lay thin bead of silicone in the crack between the mating surfaces and smooth. Let it dry overnight.
4. Re-apply a bead over the first and smooth out to about a 1.0" bead width and smooth.

If you follow this procedure your wheels will never leak. The reason you don't want silicone between the halves is because all silicone shrinks as it cures. As is shrinks the pressure between the shells changes and your torque changes. BBS use a different system. I wouldnt worry about how the silicone looks. Once you put a tire on you cant see it anyway. The last thing to want is to be driving down the road and get a flat because you didnt use enough sealant. Kodiak suggests to all of their customers that they recheck the torque after you run the wheels for the first time. Just make a few turns each way and quickly recheck (just check don't tighten more).

One recommended product for sealing wheel halves is called Toyota Seal 10* (can't remember the last number) also known as FIPG or as it sounds "Fipige." It is only available at the dealer, 3 oz. cost near 15 dollars, no silicone in it, I believe, but it will seal almost unsealable things. Generally, and good quality RTV silicone sealant will work perfectly, though. Dow Corning 832 Multi Surface Adhesive Sealant was also recommended. Kinesis Motorsports also recommends a sealant called, Shin-Etsu Silicone (1 Component RTV). This is available from Kinesis Motorsports directly.

 

I just realized you meant LM wheels.

Hello,
thanks for your mail and interest in BBS Wheels.


There is no official torque given by BBS (for the reasons you know), but to take 18 - 20 ft-lb is quite a proper torque.


Regards
Klaus Morhammer
Hottinger&Morhammer GbR
BBS RACING WHEELS
P1548 D—82120 Gauting
Fon +49-89-89309650
Fax +49-89-89309651
info "at" bbs-racing-wheels "dot" com

reference: http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=644463

 

Positive (my old LM's are still fine and I refurbed them 4 years ago) but I also used loctite.