When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
can you guys explain a little more about this performance loss when using non-staggered rims with staggered tires?
i guess what im trying ask is that with just everyday normal street driving, would i notice the difference? would it be "dangerous"? would i more likely to lose control of the car in a turn? oversteer? understeer? as oppose to using staggered rims and tires..
i wont be taking the car to the track so im thinking if the performance loss is so minimal that i will not notice/experience in everyday street driving than it might not be worth buying staggered rims
can you guys explain a little more about this performance loss when using non-staggered rims with staggered tires?
i guess what im trying ask is that with just everyday normal street driving, would i notice the difference? would it be "dangerous"? would i more likely to lose control of the car in a turn? oversteer? understeer? as oppose to using staggered rims and tires..
i wont be taking the car to the track so im thinking if the performance loss is so minimal that i will not notice/experience in everyday street driving than it might not be worth buying staggered rims
I'll take the pertinent excerpts from my previous reply:
Therefore, you need to decrease tire pressure accordingly to compensate for this. Of course, this will give you a slightly mushier ride and softer lateral tire stability.
Therefore, you need to increase tire pressure to equalize the pressure across the width of the tread. Of course, this will give you a slightly firmer ride and a stiffer lateral tire stability.
The answer to your question is not as simple as you may think. It depends on how much the tire's bead is "pulled" or "stretched" and this determines how much lower or higher air pressure must be used to equalize the pressure of the contact patch on the road. If you have to put in a lot of air, then this makes for a very stiff sidewall and will give you a very bouncy ride on that axle. Typically, this would be on the rear wider tire. A bouncy back end can lead to one that can come out easily.
If you have to take a lot of pressure out, typically on a narrower front tire, this will make for more sidewall flex and a car that has mushier turn-in and a tire that could roll up onto its shoulder, whereby it could lose grip. This would induce understeer.
Can this be dangerous? Sure it can. Would it be dangerous for you in daily driving? Who knows. How do you drive? Only you can answer this one.
i totally understand what is being said about stagger and all that, but why do some guys that track their car run 17x9's with 255's at all four corners?
Originally Posted by versionJDM,Sep 21 2006, 12:38 PM
i totally understand what is being said about stagger and all that, but why do some guys that track their car run 17x9's with 255's at all four corners?
Because some famous JDM car did it, so it must be good.
I think the issue with the 8's is you are more limited with tire sizing. I would also argue looks wise they leave something to be desired. Most 245's (especially the extreme summers many run) are a little pinched on the oem 8.5 wheel. A 255 would be really pinched. I think a lot of people do the 17x9 all around since there is a lot of wheels available in that spec and most 255's fit pretty squarely on them. There is evidence that 17x10 with a 255 performs better (there is a thread somewhere in the R&C forum) but there is far fewer 17x10 options especially 17x10 that are in a fittable offset and don't cost $3k+. 17x8 all around isn't going to cause the car to be undrivable but if you are buying a set of wheels it makes sense to look for something wider.
17x8 et49 SSR MS1R wheels. These were originally purchased for my Acura RSX-S. Once I sold that car I noticed that these fit and do not look that bad with the 225/45/17 Michelin Super Sport tires.
09-18-2006, 08:44 AM
