215/45 front with 255/40 rear?
09-20-2006, 02:54 PM
#12
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Just to play devil's advocate (I haven't tried RT-615s but am planning to), 22calbr is correct that the 215 is .3 difference in the contact patch but are also 2.2 lbs lighter per tire.
So is .3 inches worth an extra 4.5 lbs of rotational mass on top of the taller side wall? Just curious to see what people think. Thanks!
So is .3 inches worth an extra 4.5 lbs of rotational mass on top of the taller side wall? Just curious to see what people think. Thanks!
09-25-2006, 07:32 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by Jim@tirerack,Sep 20 2006, 02:05 PM
A lot depends on the width and the offset of the wheels as to whether it will rub. I like the 215/45R17 to be matched with the 245/40R17 rear. The 225/45R17 matches better with the 255/40R17 rear.
If I can help let me know.
If I can help let me know.
Also, .3" for +2.2lbs?
09-26-2006, 12:37 AM
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See the sticky on the top of this forum.
BTW, I think the OEM tire stagger sucks. Understeer everywhere. I'm going 235/40 and 255/40 whenever its time for new rubber. Although, I might have to get new wheels w/ that.
BTW, I think the OEM tire stagger sucks. Understeer everywhere. I'm going 235/40 and 255/40 whenever its time for new rubber. Although, I might have to get new wheels w/ that.
09-28-2006, 01:43 PM
#16
Originally Posted by stealthx32,Sep 26 2006, 12:37 AM
See the sticky on the top of this forum.
BTW, I think the OEM tire stagger sucks. Understeer everywhere. I'm going 235/40 and 255/40 whenever its time for new rubber. Although, I might have to get new wheels w/ that.
BTW, I think the OEM tire stagger sucks. Understeer everywhere. I'm going 235/40 and 255/40 whenever its time for new rubber. Although, I might have to get new wheels w/ that.
09-28-2006, 05:46 PM
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Well, there isn't one definitive component that's causing the car to understeer, but tires is much easier to fix than finding the proper spring rates. But I'm fine with the suspension as it is. I'm no expert suspension tuner by any means, but the car is still great transitionally, and rotates well in most circumstances. Its just that the grip limit is clearly exceed up front before it is in the rear.
10-14-2006, 07:08 AM
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Add me to the list of people looking to get Azenis 615's, and also confused on sizing. Many are runnng 225/255 on 17" wheels and like it. But based on stock sizing, wouldn't 215/245 be closer, or possibly 215/255?
With my present alignment, understeer isn't a problem. I'm very happy with the balance of the car and don't want to mess with that. Given that, on an ap2 with stock wheels, what would be the best 615 sizing to mimic stock size and stagger?
Thanx all,
Mark
With my present alignment, understeer isn't a problem. I'm very happy with the balance of the car and don't want to mess with that. Given that, on an ap2 with stock wheels, what would be the best 615 sizing to mimic stock size and stagger?
Thanx all,
Mark
10-14-2006, 11:10 AM
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I'm running the 215/255 setup with an AP1 (17" wheels though). Accordng to Falken, the 215 contact patch is 8" and the 255 contact patch is 9.5". This keeps the stagger about the same as the stock SO2's, but adds about 1" of tire contact patch all the way around. FYI, the stock AP2 specs for the RE 050 (I think)are 6.7" contact patch front and 9" contact patch rear (2.3" stagger). I find the turn in and ultimate grip to be fantastic...again, I'm running Koni's on Eibachs, and I needed to dial the settings in for the street and track. If you got the 225's up front (8.3" contact patch) I dont think you'd be disappointed at all, but for me the 215 front works very well.
Also, the tendency to oversteer on the street can be dialed out a bit just by softening up the rear susp. and stiffening up the front (also sway bar). Remember, this is a SHORT wheelbase, rear drive car, so the tendency for trailing throttle oversteer or power on oversteer is always there if applied abruptly (not like front drive cars that usually push 'till the cows come home)...you are rewarded in this car for being smooth with inputs, both power, brakes and steering. It's best to find these things out at the track/driving school rather than be a statistic on the road
Also, the tendency to oversteer on the street can be dialed out a bit just by softening up the rear susp. and stiffening up the front (also sway bar). Remember, this is a SHORT wheelbase, rear drive car, so the tendency for trailing throttle oversteer or power on oversteer is always there if applied abruptly (not like front drive cars that usually push 'till the cows come home)...you are rewarded in this car for being smooth with inputs, both power, brakes and steering. It's best to find these things out at the track/driving school rather than be a statistic on the road