landapanda

No balls to cut my rears yet, so trying to keep the OEM body lines intact. Would I be able to fit a 17x9.5 +35 all around? Or would a +38 be more doable in the rear.

Probably with -3 camber in the rear to prevent rubbing. They're already rolled flat and tabs are relocated. I'm not too worried about the fronts since

They can go as low as 9.5" +25, but I want to meet somwhere in the middle so I don't have to cut my rears up.

s2000Junky

No go on the 9.5 +35 in rear. +38 is pushing, having to run like -3.5 camber, which is not ideal. +45 fits aggressive but perfect.

landapanda

s2000Junky

^^^ Yeah 5mm is a big difference when your running these range of specs. Fitment gets pretty finite. Consider another 5mm reduced outer clearance when moving from a 245 to 255 IF you can count on manufacture consistency, which you cant. Anymore then -2 camber on the street is pretty pointless really and performance overall is decreased the more negative you go from there to accommodate wheel and tires that dont fit. I would not choose a wheel and tire spec that forces you to run -3 or more camber to not rub.

landapanda

So a little fender massaging might be necessary when I run a 255. I'm thinking about getting SPC ball joints, but not gonna go above -3 camber. I want to stay functional for track/street purposes.

Plan B is going to a 18x9.5+45 and run a 2-5mm spacer on street and no spacer for track to prevent rubbing. But that would require extended studs and the whole 9 yards. Don't want to do it if I don't have to.

s2000Junky

3mm typically wont require to run extended studs to get the min 6.5 turns. The 5mm might or might not on those wheels. Running upper camber joints is a good way to dial in and out effective offset along with your camber, so never a bad idea to gain the extra flexibility. I've found a good 15mm at least this way from pulling the bottom camber cam in all the way to out all the way and utilizing the upper joint for the actual camber correction.

Mugen_is_best

17x9 +45 is the flushest setup for the oem fenders with pull+tab relocate. I'm using this setup with -2.6 camber and J's RCA. I still rub under full compression.