BBS LM 17x8/9 ET35
01-31-2013, 01:37 AM
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BBS LM 17x8/9 ET35
Hey everyone,
I know everyone is kind off fed up with all these fitment questions, but I'd still like to ask...
I currently have a set of beautifull BBS LM in 17x8/9 ET35, and Im planning to run them with 215/45 and 235/40 (for easier fitment). Planning to be lovered abt 1 inch on Swift Spec R springs. I do realise that I need to roll fenders, relocated bumper tap.
My question is, how agressive do I have to roll the fenders to fit them? and will the paint work stay undamaged? Or will I definetly have to repaint the fenders? What camber should I be running?
Thank you all for your input!
I know everyone is kind off fed up with all these fitment questions, but I'd still like to ask...
I currently have a set of beautifull BBS LM in 17x8/9 ET35, and Im planning to run them with 215/45 and 235/40 (for easier fitment). Planning to be lovered abt 1 inch on Swift Spec R springs. I do realise that I need to roll fenders, relocated bumper tap.
My question is, how agressive do I have to roll the fenders to fit them? and will the paint work stay undamaged? Or will I definetly have to repaint the fenders? What camber should I be running?
Thank you all for your input!
01-31-2013, 05:42 AM
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There isnt any "degree" of fender rolling, either your fenders are rolled or they aren't. You can roll and pull your fenders but at your sizes I think that would be overkill. If you take it to someone who knows what they are doing then you should see any damage to the paint or clear coat, if you do it yourself or let someone do it who really doesnt know what they are doing then yes you can damage the paint.
Basically the process goes. As you are rolling the fender have a heat gun about 4-6 inches away from the area being rolled. this will warm the paint enough to let it stretch with out cracking. the tricky part is not holding it on an area to long to where the paint will bubble or to short where it will crack. Thats why I have someone do it who knows what they are doing.
Basically the process goes. As you are rolling the fender have a heat gun about 4-6 inches away from the area being rolled. this will warm the paint enough to let it stretch with out cracking. the tricky part is not holding it on an area to long to where the paint will bubble or to short where it will crack. Thats why I have someone do it who knows what they are doing.
01-31-2013, 07:49 AM
#3
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^This isn't exactly true. You can flare the fenders out a little bit with the fender roller. There isn't a huge amount of room to be gained but you can get some. The inside lip is either rolled or not so you are right there.
For that setup you will need to roll the fenders completely flat and maybe flare them a tiny bit. You will need to have at least 2 degrees of camber and probably 2.5 in the rear.
As for tires you should still be able to run a 245/40 in the rear and the a 215/45 front.
The best thing to do is to roll the fenders and lower the car first and have the alignment done and then put the wheels or take the wheels to the alignment shop and have them put them on and then do the alignment.
For that setup you will need to roll the fenders completely flat and maybe flare them a tiny bit. You will need to have at least 2 degrees of camber and probably 2.5 in the rear.
As for tires you should still be able to run a 245/40 in the rear and the a 215/45 front.
The best thing to do is to roll the fenders and lower the car first and have the alignment done and then put the wheels or take the wheels to the alignment shop and have them put them on and then do the alignment.
01-31-2013, 08:23 AM
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There isnt any "degree" of fender rolling, either your fenders are rolled or they aren't. You can roll and pull your fenders but at your sizes I think that would be overkill. If you take it to someone who knows what they are doing then you should see any damage to the paint or clear coat, if you do it yourself or let someone do it who really doesnt know what they are doing then yes you can damage the paint.
Basically the process goes. As you are rolling the fender have a heat gun about 4-6 inches away from the area being rolled. this will warm the paint enough to let it stretch with out cracking. the tricky part is not holding it on an area to long to where the paint will bubble or to short where it will crack. Thats why I have someone do it who knows what they are doing.
Basically the process goes. As you are rolling the fender have a heat gun about 4-6 inches away from the area being rolled. this will warm the paint enough to let it stretch with out cracking. the tricky part is not holding it on an area to long to where the paint will bubble or to short where it will crack. Thats why I have someone do it who knows what they are doing.
^This isn't exactly true. You can flare the fenders out a little bit with the fender roller. There isn't a huge amount of room to be gained but you can get some. The inside lip is either rolled or not so you are right there.
For that setup you will need to roll the fenders completely flat and maybe flare them a tiny bit. You will need to have at least 2 degrees of camber and probably 2.5 in the rear.
As for tires you should still be able to run a 245/40 in the rear and the a 215/45 front.
The best thing to do is to roll the fenders and lower the car first and have the alignment done and then put the wheels or take the wheels to the alignment shop and have them put them on and then do the alignment.
For that setup you will need to roll the fenders completely flat and maybe flare them a tiny bit. You will need to have at least 2 degrees of camber and probably 2.5 in the rear.
As for tires you should still be able to run a 245/40 in the rear and the a 215/45 front.
The best thing to do is to roll the fenders and lower the car first and have the alignment done and then put the wheels or take the wheels to the alignment shop and have them put them on and then do the alignment.
With "degree" of rolling I actually ment wether Ill need to flare fenders or just the rolling will do the job to make those babies fit, sorry that all because of my english being far from perfect. Lol
I know the process of rolling pretty well (haven't actually done it or seen it done in life) but i did read a lot, the problem is that everyone here in ukraine who does the rolling says that there is a really great chance that the paint will crack, and this really put me off doing it. I think they just try to cover up their asses in case they'll mess up. But I really want to run on this rims. Also, as for the camber, I used to run -1.5 front and -2 at the back, and I liked it, so i guess -2 or 2.5 is still decent and not to much to an extend it looks gay and ruins the handling to much? What do you think?
Once againe thank you a lot for ur replies!
01-31-2013, 09:06 AM
#5
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The alignment is something you will have to talk with your shop about and get it dialed in. I just kinda estimated based off my setup and experience. I would rather run a little more camber to fit the wheels then stretch the tires to much.
With the fender rolling just make sure you keep the fender very hot. It should be uncomfortable to touch it for more than a few seconds and reheat it often. Also be aware if your car has had any body work done there is a great chance that the paint can crack. Just take your time and make sure you keep the heat on.
With the fender rolling just make sure you keep the fender very hot. It should be uncomfortable to touch it for more than a few seconds and reheat it often. Also be aware if your car has had any body work done there is a great chance that the paint can crack. Just take your time and make sure you keep the heat on.
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