freddydela

What setting is this? I'm probably just going to do 0 to preserve them.

Chibo

0 rear toe is a bad idea, especially on an API1

ZDan

Minimum spec for AP1 is 1/8" or 0.3 degrees total rear toe-in. You can definitely run less than that. I'd say 0.1 to 0.2 degrees total. 0.0 would probably be fine, but 0.15 is IMO a good target to aim for. I got 18k miles out of Hankook RS3s at that setting.

freddydela

The toe number I stated on my post is wrong. The correct number I saw at the alignment rack was .14 degrees on each side. I know the RS tire generally have better life. I'm hoping to just get through the summer with these since its starts getting cold around October.

rpg51

Rob Robinette's site (https://robrobinette.com/S2000Alignment.htm) lists ap1 and ap2 oem rear toe in specs as follows:

"AP1 (2000 - 2003) OEM Rear Toe-In Specs

Inches: Total Toe-In is 0.24 inch +/- .08 inch or the range of 0.16 - 0.32 inch

For each rear tire toe-in is 0.12 inch +/- 0.04 inch or the range of 0.08 to 0.1"


He reports that ap2 has different specs stated at his web site as follows:

"AP2 (2004 and newer except CR) OEM Rear Toe-In Specs

Inches: Total Toe-In is 0.14 inch +/- 0.08 inch or the range of 0.06 to 0.22 inch

For each rear tire toe-in is 0.07 inch +/- 0.04 inch or the range of 0.03 to 0.11 inch"


I just checked the most recent alignment report for my 03. I'm at .08 inches left rear toe and .08 inches right rear toe. Total rear toe is .16 inches. So, if I am reading this correctly, mine is set at the minimum OEM spec for rear toe on my ap1 according to Rob. Still, I get only around 10K miles out of my rear tires. This is 100% street driving and almost all of that is on twisty rural paved roads and I am driving in lively fashion but nowhere near the limit.

I am reluctant to set my alignment outside of oem specs.

dc2-2-ap1

My re71r looked practically opposite of yours. My outer edges were gone due to several track events and my inners were shot from street driving between events. By the time I replaced them, the middle was the only part with tread. I ran 32psi with UK spec w/ -2.25 camber.
Your alignment specs should wear the inside- yet the inside of your tire looks practically untouched. It really does look like overinflation wear.
Average mileage for those tires range from 4-7k miles based on usage. Expecting 10-12k miles from them is a further stretch than the expectation of an honest politician. I think I got around 4.5k out of mine. For 10-12k, you need to go with BFG Rival S 1.5, hankook RS4, or Dunlop ZIISS (haven't heard much about the new ZIII).

freddydela

I don’t think I’m being to unrealistic for expecting 10k out of them. I’m only planning about 2 track events and maybe 4 autocross. Another thing is that these tires can be flipped, that way I can stretch their life once the inside shoulder is worn from street driving. I’m pretty sure the toe is way off and I’m dragging tire across the road while daily driving.

engifineer

I put probably 40-50 autocross runs and 2500-3000 miles on the street on my last set, plus a track night in america (short course, but still) and they were nowhere NEAR that worn. Something definitely going on there. I allowed them to freeze a few times last winter and they started falling off on grip, but still had tread.

32 is probably higher than you need on those tires (I autox at around 29F/27R and run 30 on the street) but not enough to cause excessive wear like that.

engifineer

They will easily exceed 10,000 miles on the street under relatively normal, slightly spirited driving.

ZDan

That is NOT "overinflation" wear. Which isn't even so much a thing on radials anyway... That old "rule" applies to bias-ply tires. Alignment check will reveal the truth....

I guess the minimum spec AP1 rear toe-in is 4mm or 0.16 inches or 0.37 degrees total, a bit more than I misremembered. IMO that is too much. Try 0.2 degrees total, or 0.15degrees. There are no downsides. Better turn-in, better straightline stability in traction-challenged conditions, greater tire life.