freddydela

Very nice. I'm a little less than an inch lower on the front that you are. I like your height specs, so I'll copy those settings and realign. Are you track safe by the way?

s2000Junky

You should do the upper camber ball joints, this way you can actually effect your wheel offset within the fender closer to the inside while having full camber control and more of it. You can gain 10-15mm fender clearance by adding full positive camber on the lower factory camber joint and then now using the upper after market joint to adjust the camber you want, and or any mix of both to dial in your wheel offset and alignment. Too bad you fubar your fenders already. But this is what I recommend to get full alignment and fitment flexibility. You will still likely need to raise the susp some, with no less then 1 finger gap, similar to the red car above.

Bullwings

Yup. The car is mostly a track dedicated vehicle now - probably an 85/15 track/street split now.

I'm using the off-set camber joints on the lower control arm - J's racing style.

freddydela

Update: I had the fenders pulled this morning and raised the front about 1/2 inch and no more rubbing. The person who rolled them says mostly okay to track at this height but there might be weird bumps that might cause to rub at the track. The car is driven on the streets 95% of the time, and though I'm okay with this ride height, I would like to drop a least 1/8 inch across.

freddydela

I guess what I'm trying to ask is, if I can install the adjustable ball joints, and be at say -3.5 camber, would it be safe to track a lower ride height?

s2000Junky

Ride height looks good now. I would get the upper ball joints just so you can run less camber while still accommodating the fitment. -3.5 on the street sucks. Not only is it sketchy/less then optimum for good emergency braking and overall handling, you will be going through tires x3 as fast. Pointless if you can install the upper camber joint, back off on the oem adjuster as mentioned and then use the top camber joint to dial in your alignment. This will move the whole inset of your front wheels in so you can run a more street friendly alignment without fubar your fenders anymore. Then you can experiment more with lowering the car too if you want. You can do this on the rear also, but looks like your ok on fitment/rubbing there. Still would allow you to back off on the negative camber though which is probably in excess of -3 which again sucks.

TsukubaCody

I feel you on the ride height, it looks a bit wonky.

freddydela

This is kind of an off topic question, but how do you guys turn your dampers to adjust ride height? I took a oil filter wrench and wrapped the ends with gorilla tape, but I’m still damaging the tracks.

thomsbrain

I wouldn't turn the damper to adjust ride height, I'd disconnect the bottom mount and turn the bottom mount.

s2000Junky

Depends on where you are in your up stroke vs down stroke/droop. Aftermarket coilovers are already shorter then oem by a good margin. Generally you want around the same upstroke as droop, so if your near the bump stops with the car on the ground and you raise it and see the wheel droop several inches, then you probably need to turn the whole damper in place/ie pre load depending on damper) to get more bump travel along with your ride height. If your bump travel is set to where its functional but notice you don't have a lot of wheel droop when jacked up and want more ride height, then yes turning the lower perch/separate from pre load as thomsbrain eluding would likely be best. Its all relative and not all set up the same.