Had a quick question in regards to the clutch release fork. Is there any truth to this Youtube video??? Mines similar in noise and play. Not sure if i should just go buy a new fork or not to be on the safe side

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GkWdHfFkjk



Any who on to the fun....

The Clutch disc was extremely worn lol. Throw out bearing was noisy. Luckily the flywheel appears to of survived. That will be getting machined tomorrow.










Down to the riviets! lol







And had some fun mocking my manifold up! Wont start the turbo application for a while but...

 

Also not sure how people get to the upper starter bolt. I know its a pain for some. Personally I just took 5 extra minutes and removed the Serp belt tensioner. Makes access much much easier imo. Figured I'd share.

 

How bad was it slipping?
And you did all that on the driveway? Props to you..

 

That's one of the best shots of the top starter bolt I've ever seen, nice pic!

 

haha believe it or not the clutch was not slipping at all. Or not noticeable at least which is why I was amazed once i seen the disc. complete failure was imminent. My primary reason for pulling the clutch was because my throw out bearing was noisy and just put my Competition Clutch in. Yup entirely in the driveway! It was a breeze on the ground. Gave me no troubles. First clutch job i actually enjoyed doing.


Yes thank you! Figured I'd post as a reference to future clutch do'ers and suggesting this method. There are 4 14mm bolts holding the tensioner in. 2 Tensioner to engine block bolts. Then theres the intake manifold support bracket which has 2 short 14mm bolts. Then one 10mm bolt holding the water tube to the tensioner base. You don't even need a swivel to get to the upper starter bolt! Clear line of sight and well worth the 5 extra minutes


Drive shaft allen head bolts stripping . Used a small propane torch and vise grips and just left the driveshaft attached to the diff

 

Just changed my clutch looked just like that and wasnt slipping

Anyway regarding your clutch fork, Mine was the same way and I didnt have the time to order a new one so I took a blunt round chisel and peened the end that the press on washer is on. It "tightened" the shaft making it rattle much less!

NOTE: I do not know if this is an acceptable method of solving this problem! It has worked for me for 1,500 miles so far with no problems.

 

Thanks again for posting that pic of the way you got to your upper starter bolt. I started my clutch swap (again) today and removed the tensioner in about 10 minutes and it made getting to that bolt 100x easier than last time when I struggled with a wobble socket going on from the angle. Awesome. I'm really surprised the Helms manual doesn't say to remove the tensioner in their walkthrough and use that method.

 

on the youtube video, does someones see that the fork as wear from touching the pressure plate?

I have the same wear on a stock Ap2, that as the OEM clutch never replace.

I suspect a bad cylinder ajustement

 

Im starting my clutch this weekend! Too funny! I was waiting on snap on to bring me new batteries for my 1/2 impact. After seeing this im definitely taking off the tensioner!

 

Lmfao! GET OUT OF MY LIFE APONER!!!!! Hahahaha.