Apex1.0

What are you guys using for rear toe settings? I searched on alignment specs and there seems to be a consensus on the other alignment settings which is:

Front toe: 0*
Front Camber: -1.5* street, add more for aggressive driving.
Front Caster: Max possible

Rear Camber: -2.5* or one degree more than the front setting
Rear Toe: ???? Some run lot, others almost none.

It seems there are positive reviews on a variety of rear toe settings.

So for a lowered, otherwise stock AP1 that is 75% street 25% track, what do you recommend?

Slowcrash_101

I've played with toe settings and I've found between .2-.3 degrees toe-in at each wheel is the ideal range(which is about where the factory service manual recommends), and the higher the static rear camber you run the more you want your toe to be towards the high side of the range. I've verified this by measuring tire temperatures and tire pressures with various settings. I have access to an alignment rack, and have done a lot of alignments to the car. Usually before and after an event and everywhere in between. After .3 degrees you quickly start getting diminishing returns, and after .35 you actually start negatively affecting handling.

SmokeyGatto

any experiences with rear toe out? I recently set my rear toe to .1 or .2 out. I think its a more aggressive autocross setup. More grip at slower speeds, on a track/high speeds. I think its going to be oversteery

dan_uk

.20-30 at each wheel? 0.30 being about 1/8inch and 0.20 about 1/16th? you run 1/2inch overall?

most people run a bit more camber up front I'd try and get the front to at least -2 if you are running -2.5 rear, it might not go that far

AE_Racer

My specs are

Front

0 toe
-1.7 camber

Rear

.2 total toe in
-2.4 camber

I wanted a bit less camber in the rear but as low as my car is he said thats the least he could get.

I am not an avid or good driver on track by any means but i ran these at sebring with factory sized rs3s and the car seemed very balanced. My car sees about 25k miles a year and I am already much happier with tire wear vs factory recommended toe.

Slowcrash_101

Toe out is if you want to do autocross for sure, but it sucks if you plan to go over 80mph, if you can make it work for you though you are a better driver than I.

whatset

I find it odd that a ton of S2k guys seem to run more negative camber in the rear than in the front - just makes me scratch my head...but back on topic; a little toe-in in the rear will help keep the car tucked underneath you.

Front

0 Toe
-3.11 Camber
7.8 Caster

Rear

.12 toe in per side .24 total toe in
-2.8 camber

neurotic

I presume this is for B-Street autocross, so I would start with the following. Check the front compliance bushings, these deteriorate with time/use and will limit front camber; replace the control arms if you cannot get a 'normal' maximum camber amount.

Front Camber: Max
Front Caster: Whatever can be had at maximum camber
Front Toe: 0-1/8" total out

Rear Camber: Match the front
Rear Toe: 1/4" total in (~0.58 degrees); 5/16" will be similar to 1/4", but 3/16" will noticeably change (reduce) rear stability [for autocross, was fine on street]

Apex1.0

This is for a street and HPDE car on stock like tires.

Thanking about .2* per rear wheel, or .4 degrees total.

What do you think?

Gregg Lee

1. As a front wheel turns in, the caster adds more negative camber.
2. More camber adjustment is available in the rear.
3. Most important: testing.