Another ver 2 Kraftwerks C38-81 install

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02-24-2015, 09:14 AM

#51

Habitforming

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Quote:

Originally Posted by The Machine

Looks good man. I have the Q300 on my car as well, but kinda love the somewhat loudness of it. I don't really like the Kraftwerks logo on the FMIC either, but I am keeping the silver color so I bought some acetone to take off the paint with.

Just note that unless you have a way of scrubbing in between the fins, you won't get all of the logo off. It's sprayed pretty deep in there. After I rubbed the logo off of the front with lacquer thinner you could still clearly see the logo, though it was hard to read. I think you may need to take it to a radiator shop & have it hot dipped to get that logo completely gone, or just mount it backward & be careful with clearance to the bumper & a/c drier.

What is your Q300 paired with? HFC or test pipe? There's no "somewhat loudness" for me, you can't talk over it cruising at about 3-3.5k from the drone, and its flat out LOUD at WOT/high RPM. I literally had my radar detector light up several times when I got on it, because a nearby cop was getting ready for me (I'd see them within a minute later). Even got followed home my first day out with it because I drew so much attention.

But I'm old and prefer to fly under the radar. We're very saturated with cops around here.

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02-24-2015, 09:45 AM

#52

The Machine

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I have the JVT header with a HFC and Q300. I will say on the highway crusing it is loud, but I love the sound. Coming back from FL when I bought it, by the end of the trip my throat was sore from trying to talk to my friend, lol. And that was crusing at about 75-80 the whole way. And yes at WOT it sure as hell does scream. I'm not too worried about how loud it is though since there are tons of motorcycles that drive like a-holes and have 10x louder exhausts than me and they don't get pulled over. Though I will say, I doubt I would get pulled over for that anyway, I am a cop and have PBA tags on my car, lol.

Sucks about the FMIC though. I may have to leave the logo on there then cause I don't want to try getting it off just to see a faint outline of it. I'll have to look into the dipped route then and see what I can find. I remember you saying the FMIC was directional though because of its angle, so I wasn't really planning on trying to turn it around.

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02-24-2015, 09:58 AM

#53

Habitforming

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Quote:

Originally Posted by The Machine

When we originally did my install, a friend and I looked at it over and over and couldn't see how it was directional. We installed it with the logo backward and everything seemed fine, with just a very minor interference to the plug on the a/c drier. Well after going back into it getting pictures from someone, I saw that there was more interference there than I remembered. On a whim I mounted it reversed (KW logo visible now) and the clearance to the a/c drier was resolved, if barely. It was a very small change though, only about 3/8" on the top of the IC. So you can get away with it backward, maybe with a little more fiddling with the a/c drier & lines, or by adding some shims under the front set of bolts to cant the intercooler forward ever so slightly.

Regarding getting all of the paint off, in my research I saw radiator shops mentioned as a possible sources for this work. Otherwise I'd look into an anodizing/chroming shop which would probably have the capability. Whatever you find out, please do report back here & let us know. If my paint doesn't hold up I'll be looking into anodizing it instead.

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02-24-2015, 10:07 AM

#54

The Machine

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Sure thing man, I'll take a look and report back. Just sucks cause I feel like where I live, nothing is ever close by when I need something special done.

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02-24-2015, 02:01 PM

#55

The Machine

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Ok so doing a bit of research, I've found that it is actually better to have the intercooler coated with cerakote instead of anodizing. Anodizing the intercooler will look great at first but will color fade over time. Most things I've read said a black anodized coating will turn brown after a while. Here is a site I found where you can pick colors from and you can punch in your zip to find applicators closest to you. I think I am going to go this route.

http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/

Also here is some info about it in this thread.

http://honda-tech.com/forced-inducti...074553/page14/

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02-25-2015, 07:16 PM

#56

poop-dog

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I've already posted in here, so I don't see a need to make another thread. With that said, a few things I'd like to add that may help others. Some I read here already and some I didn't.

Do buy the allen sockets if you don't have them.
Do go rent the tool to hold the crank pulley from spinning. Its 40 to rent from Oreiley's.
With that said, it will not work to torque the new bolt down as the adapter makes the factory method/tool useless. Placing in 6th and mashing brakes worked to torque it down but not to take it off. You will need a breaker bar with extension for both. 4.5 feet worked for me.
You will need a torque wrench that goes to 181. Mine only goes to 150. Again Oreiley's rents for 80
You will need blue loctite
KW provides red loctite with the kit which you also will need
I did not have to use the fittings they provided for coolant hoses. I imagine as I removed already when I installed my CAI.
The tee fitting for connecting the bov to the fpr vacuum line KW provided did not fit. You will need to pick a 3/16 tee, I got mine from Oreiley's.
I did not need to drain my coolant.
The new mounts are pretty straight forward. You will need to remove a stud so make sure you have another nut that fits and put both on together, then unscrew the first resting against the last and the stud will screw right out.
My adapter and crank pulley came pre-assembled. It was not torqued down properly nor did it have loctite applied, may want to check everything, I did.
My tensioner also came pre-assembled but it was assembled backwards. The bolt hole for the pulley should face the SC, not the outside of the plate. The bolt ended up freezing, then snapping, and I had to drill a hole through the bolt to get it out
Make sure to put your new belt around the new crank pulley before you install it or off it goes again.
To get the crank pulley on I had to jack the motor up a little as it rubbed on the steering.
You will need to remove the factory "cooling plate". That is not mentioned in the instructions but the intercooler wont fit with it. Moving the horn also poses problems if you try and leave it in place. be gentle on the little screws or they strip.
Mounting the oil cooler is a pain and pictures suck. I spent an hour to figure out you need to loosen the mount on the ac dryer canister thing and spin it then use the adapter to pull it in closer not using the factory hole. Install the fittings that you can in the hoses off the car, much easier.
The instructions do not explain that you will need to cut up your splash guards. You will need to cut two holes in the middle splash guard right by the intercooler outlet and inlet and a large piece out of each side by the wheel wells. Those pieces kind of look like a T and are mounted to the frame with the plastic clips. Make sure you have some sort of hand saw, roto zip, etc.
I did not attach the hose from the valve cover to the the bottom of the coupler on the SC inlet. I plugged it with a bolt and then clamped in place.

The instructions are poor. They miss so many things, designs changed, and pictures are awful. So many things are trial and error. I wasted a lot of time on the crank pulley bolt (my fault). The plastic screws in the SC were torqued way too hard, and fell apart while trying to unscrew them. I also found the oil cooler lines to be a pain. Instructions do not say but you need to place a copper washer on each side of the banjo. The way it read it seems they want 2 on the bottom.

My torque dampner will not work with this kit and the new mounting brackets, just fyi if you have one. Also the top cover with the KW logo seems awfully close to the belt and pulley.

I am not sure what to do with what I presume is my air pump. Can i ditch it? The instructions also don't mention you need to remove it, but you will as it is right in front of the crank pulley.

I have also been taking pics along the way if the OP has not uploaded a spec one you need. Thank you for what you have posted, they have helped.

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02-25-2015, 07:38 PM

#57

Habitforming

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Quote:

Originally Posted by poop-dog

I've already posted in here, and am halfway through my install, so I don't see a need to make another thread. With that said, a few things I'd like to add that may help others. Some I read here already and some I didnt.

Do buy the allen sockets if you dont have them.
Do go rent the tool to hold the crank pulley from spinning. Its 40 to rent from Oreiley's.
With that said, it will not work to torque the new bolt down as the adapter makes the factory method/tool useless. Placing in 6th and mashing brakes worked to torque it down but not to take it off. You will need a breaker bar with extension for both. 4.5 feet worked for me.
You will need a torque wrench that goes to 181. Mine only goes to 150. Again Oreiley's rents for 80
You will need blue loctite
KW provides red loctite with the kit which you also will need
I did not have to use the fittings they provided for coolant hoses. I imagine as I removed already when I installed my CAI.
I did not need to drain my coolant.
The new mounts are pretty straight forward. You will need to remove a stud so make sure you have another nut that fits and put both on together, then unscrew the first resting against the last and the stud will screw right out.
My adapter and crank pulley came pre-assembled. It was not torqued down properly nor did it have loctite applied, may want to check everything, I did.
Make sure to put your new belt around the new crank pulley before you install it or off it goes again.
To get the crank pulley on I had to jack the motor up a little as it rubbed on the steering.
You will need to remove the factory "cooling plate". That is not mentioned in the instructions but the intercooler wont fit with it. Moving the horn also poses problems if you try and leave it in place. be gentle on the little screws or they strip.
Mounting the oil cooler is a pain and pictures suck. I spent an hour to figure out you need to loosen the mount on the ac dryer canister thing and spin it then use the adapter to pull it in closer not using the factory hole. Install the fittings that you can in the hoses off the car, much easier.

That's about as far as I am. The instructions are terrible. They miss so many things, designs changed, and pictures are awful. So many things are trial and error. I wasted a lot of time on the crank pulley bolt. The plastic screws in the SC were torqued way too hard, and fell apart while trying to unscrew them. I also found the oil cooler lines to be a pain. Instructions do not say but you need to place a copper washer on each side of the banjo. The way it read it seems they want 2 on the bottom.

My torque dampner will not work with this kit and the new mounting brackets, just fyi if you have one. Also the top cover with the KW logo seems awfully close to the belt and pulley.

Other than that it is coming along. I am not sure what to do with what I presume is my air pump. Can i ditch it? The instructions also don't mention you need to remove it, but you will as it is right in front of the crank pulley.

I have also been taking pics along the way if the OP has not uploaded a spec one you need. Thank you for what you have posted, they have helped.

Great comments, thanks for contributing!! I'm going to link to them in my first post.

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02-26-2015, 09:31 AM

#58

The Machine

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Great info! A shop by me that I found has installed these kits before and quoted about $800 to do it. After reading all these new comments, I feel like it might be $800 well spent to have a professional install job instead of trying to do all this trial and error and wasting more of my time.

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