i just ordered these cams and have a few questions..... i found these specs of the stock ap2 cams vs. the bc stage 2 cams, i dont know much about came specs but even though the changes are minor they should still have a nice flow improvement correct?

INT
AP2
34mm 36.5mm 34mm
BC2
34.5mm 37mm 34.2mm

EXH
AP2
33.75mm 35.65mm 33.75mm
BC2
34.5mm 36.5mm 34.25mm

i didnt want to go with any cam with huge numbers that i would have to clearance the rockers for and these seem to be a good bang for the buck. the mosts important i have is, will i need bigger injectors to support these cams????? thanks for any input!!!!!

 

I'm very happy with them (BC stage 2 cams), depending on your intake & catback setup the stock injectors could be very close to be maxed out at max RPM, I would upgrade to the RDX injectors if you don't plan to increase displacement, here is a good place to get what you need, I delt with them for my adapter clip, top notch service, call them and they'll set you up.
Xenocron

 

i've heard mixed review on them

i emailed some vendors and some advice against it. i guess the only way to find out whether is true or not is to buy one and test it.

whats the worst case scenario if the cams snapped?

 

never heard of a cam snapping. but theres a local shop to me who has ran these cams and are happy with their results.

i am really on the fence if i want to keep stock valvetrain and rev to 8200 or spend the extra $1000 for valve springs/ retainers and rev this 2.2 to 9000 rpms........ man such a hard decision when your a baller on a budget, lol

btw, about the injector question, i have berk header, 3" testpipe, 3" single hks exhaust so im guessing i would have to go with bigger injectors???

 

I'm running them on stock springs no issues, rev limit set at 8400 RPM but they peak at 8200 with my actual setup, I must have hit the rev limiter like 50 times during the dataloging with Jeff (Evans tuning), I shift at 8200 RPM thanks to my modifry beeper...
I would go with bigger injectors...
Reving to 9000 RPM, you really want to do that?...
Cheers

 

Why would you want to rev your f22 to 9k? You don't need valvesprings to get to 9k (not taking into consideration more aaggressive cam profiles) because the head and valvetrain on the f22 are the same as the f20 (better actually and some small cam profile differences). It's the bottom end (stroked and higher piston speeds) that should be your reason not to go to 9k.

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after talking to my local shop, they said due to only having one tech they couldnt give me a quote on the instal of valve springs. retainers so that made my decision that much easier, ill just set the redline at 8200 with stock valvetrain and call it a day. save a few bucks that way.

im not sure about this but please dont flame me for asking, i know b-series use cams seals but i dont think the f-series may have them. do f-series have cam seals? the only reason i think they may not is because the cam gears dont really come out into a seperate portion of the VC. if they do i will need new cam seals when doing the cam swap? thanks

 

The only thing you might need is valvecover gaskets. Buy the kit from majestic for 20bucks and don't forget the sparkplug seals also. I just did a headswap so I know a cam swap is fairly easy to do (much easier than a B series imho)...don't even have to mess with the timing chain or tensioner.

Hint the cam position plates are reverse threaded

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I just rebuilt my 2.0L last month... I milled the deck on the cylinder head, had the chambers ported and polished, and had the full SuperTech valve train installed: titanium retainers, matching valve springs and flat valves (versus the OEM concave valves). To finish everything off I installed BC Stage II N/A cams.

THERE WAS ONE HUGE PROBLEM....but I'll get to that in a sec.

...The result? WithOUT a special tune, using the stock OEM ECU, the engine is MUCH stronger than an AP2 engine, I actually have more torque than an AP2 now as well I actually experienced a noticeable/usable torque gain from idle to 4500rpm.....You can hear the cams (via the exaust) all the way through the RPM range...and then when i hit VTEC, it's like cracking a whip . I plan on going to Bisimoto in Sept. to get a full AEM EMS2 tune.... My mechanic who's done at least 25 S2k engine rebuilds in his time mentioned that Toda cams in the past have had cam-lopes whiped clean after a couple spirited runs. So he was hesitant about me using the BC's....but after 5K miles and two hard open track days, I adjusted the valves yesterday and the cams looked like I hadn't even taken them out of the box...Not a single scratch. Soooo for the moment, I'm SO GLAD I got these cams.

HAVING SAID THAT, my problem... and I want to emphasize that the guys at BC immediately fixed the problem... The cams I initially got from BC literally had "Exhaust" stamped on the intake cam, and "Intake" stamped on the exhaust cam!!! I got to the point where I fully installed the cams on the head and right before I started torquing everything down, my mechanic and I had an 'oh chit' moment.... Apparently there was a batch of mis-stamped cams, and I got some =/. So be careful, and make sure you take your oem cams and put them side by side with your new B/C's....

 

so how will you be able to deferentiate the intake and exhaust cams by comparing to the oem cams? it is very obvious or is there something specific i should be looking for? thank you very much for the warning!!