The TCT Refurbishment Thread
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Fareham, Hants
The TCT Refurbishment Thread
Right then folks...I have been inundated with PMs asking me what I can do with TCTs, so have created this thread to prevent RSI 
What does the TCT (Timing Chain Tensioner) do?
The TCT is an oil driven piston that keeps the timing chain tensioned.
Why does the TCT rattle?
The oil polishes the worm gear and piston inside the TCT, requiring more oil pressure, which is not available, to maintain pressure against the timing chain; when there is insufficient pressure on the chain, it vibrates/rattles.
The timing chain may also rattle if your oil is old. If it has not been changed in a while, or is black, then seriously consider changing it before going any further. Mobil 1 is sh1t...I don't care what your Dealer says.
I Keep on Replacing TCTs and the Noise Comes Back, What Should I do?
Look into replacing the Timing Chain, Guides, and sprocket. There are numerous threads detailing the requirements and associated costs.
What does the TCT look like?
Where is it on my Engine?
Item 2:
What Does it Look Like Inside?
How Do I Remove the TCT?
Ensure the engine is cool.
Remove the airbox, if you have the OEM one fitted. There are a few bolts around the edge that need to be removed. If you cannot manage this, then you shouldn't be attempting to replace the TCT yourself. If you have an aftermarket intake, remove this in lieu of the airbox. Some systems permit access to the maintenance hole without removal, and this step is therefore not necessary.
Remove the maintenance cover using an allen key, or star shaped socket, pictured here, where the pliers are:
DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT THAT LOOKS THE SAME NEARER THE VALVE COVER...THIS HOLDS MAJOR COMPONENTS OF YOUR ENGINE TOGETHER!
Remove the two 10mm bolts pictured here:
Wriggle the TCT free...this can be tricky, and may require a bit of light persuasion with a flathead and hammer on the right hand most edge, where the TCT meets the head. Don 't be surprised if a little oil comes out. Be careful not to tip the TCT upside down...the internals will fly everywhere.
How do I fit a refurbished TCT/fit a refurbished worm gear and piston?
If I supply you with a worm gear/piston (further details below), remove your worm gear and piston, and reassemble with the refurbished components as per this picture:
To re-compress the components, push them together, then twist the piston whilst applying positive pressure. As the worm gear and piston are now nice and coarse, you will not need to remove the back cover of the TCT and fit a bolt to wind it all together. To prevent the TCT from releasing all the components, fit the supplied pin into the small holes, bearing in mind the orientation of the TCT in the engine, and that the end with the bend needs to face towards the front of the car.
Fit the TCT back into the engine and replace the 10mm bolts. Do not hang off these bolts, they are only small, and will shear if you think He-Man-like torque is required.
You will now be able to see the pin through the maintenance hole. If anyone is watching at this stage, tell them to bugger off...you need to concentrate. If this goes wrong...the engine will need to be stripped 'til it is found.
Get a pair of long nose pliers, pictured earlier, and remove the pin ever so slightly, allowing you to get a better grip on the pin; remove it completely and set it aside somewhere safe. The TCT should have expanded, allowing the piston to push on the timing chain.
Refit the maintenance hole bolt.
Turn the engine on, and let it run for ~ 30 seconds. There will be a nasty noise for ~ 3 seconds...this is normal, and is just the piston not applying enough pressure on the chain while the oil is circulating. If it persists for any longer than 10 seconds, switch the engine off immediately and refit the old TCT/worm gear and piston.
If all is well, turn the engine off and refit the removed items such as the airbox, ensuring all pipes/hoses/bolts are connected properly.
What Can loftust do For Me?
I can:
a. Send you a sandblasted worm gear, piston and pin, for you to fit to your existing TCT.
This requires you to send your old worm gear and piston back to me as soon as physically possible. Please DO NOT forget to send the pin back.
b. Send you a TCT with a refurbished worm gear and piston inside.
I require your old TCT back, complete, including the pin...the same rule applies.
Anyone failing to return the old components will be hunted down like a dog. I am currently pursuing AshtonWMS as he failed to return an entire TCT, and will not respond to PMs. I am chasing him down and planning to pay him a visit at his workplace to 'rectify the issue'.
I require a guarantee that you will send the old components back. I get nothing out of doing this, and your cooperation ensures that others can be helped. I ask anyone taking advantage of this to return the components ASAP.
How Much Does it Cost?
For option a - £4 + any costs incurred to you for sending back your old items recorded delivery.
For option b - £6.50 + any costs incurred to you for sending back your old items recorded delivery.
All payments are to be made as a gift via PayPal.
Any small financial gains go towards buying more sand.
What do I Need to do?
Work out which of the aforementioned options you are going for.
Send me a PM, stating your requirements and delivery address. I will indicate when I can supply you with the refurbished item(s). I have a 2 week lead time at the moment.
I will send you my address to which you are to send components to, and provide my PayPal address. Once the funds have cleared I will send the item(s).
You let me know when they have arrived and fit them, sending your old bits back ASAP, including that pin!
Please do not ask other arbitrary questions about TCTs...there is a plethora of info out there, and the main bits have been covered in this thread.
I am only able to offer this service 'til Christmas as I join my next unit and will be a trifle busy.
I think that covers everything, and I hope that this is of use.
Just remember...I will hunt you down like a dog if you fail to send me components back. I treat it as theft, and will have no problem confronting you face to face if you fail to do so
What does the TCT (Timing Chain Tensioner) do?
The TCT is an oil driven piston that keeps the timing chain tensioned.
Why does the TCT rattle?
The oil polishes the worm gear and piston inside the TCT, requiring more oil pressure, which is not available, to maintain pressure against the timing chain; when there is insufficient pressure on the chain, it vibrates/rattles.
The timing chain may also rattle if your oil is old. If it has not been changed in a while, or is black, then seriously consider changing it before going any further. Mobil 1 is sh1t...I don't care what your Dealer says.
I Keep on Replacing TCTs and the Noise Comes Back, What Should I do?
Look into replacing the Timing Chain, Guides, and sprocket. There are numerous threads detailing the requirements and associated costs.
What does the TCT look like?
Where is it on my Engine?
Item 2:
What Does it Look Like Inside?
How Do I Remove the TCT?
Ensure the engine is cool.
Remove the airbox, if you have the OEM one fitted. There are a few bolts around the edge that need to be removed. If you cannot manage this, then you shouldn't be attempting to replace the TCT yourself. If you have an aftermarket intake, remove this in lieu of the airbox. Some systems permit access to the maintenance hole without removal, and this step is therefore not necessary.
Remove the maintenance cover using an allen key, or star shaped socket, pictured here, where the pliers are:
DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT THAT LOOKS THE SAME NEARER THE VALVE COVER...THIS HOLDS MAJOR COMPONENTS OF YOUR ENGINE TOGETHER!
Remove the two 10mm bolts pictured here:
Wriggle the TCT free...this can be tricky, and may require a bit of light persuasion with a flathead and hammer on the right hand most edge, where the TCT meets the head. Don 't be surprised if a little oil comes out. Be careful not to tip the TCT upside down...the internals will fly everywhere.
How do I fit a refurbished TCT/fit a refurbished worm gear and piston?
If I supply you with a worm gear/piston (further details below), remove your worm gear and piston, and reassemble with the refurbished components as per this picture:
To re-compress the components, push them together, then twist the piston whilst applying positive pressure. As the worm gear and piston are now nice and coarse, you will not need to remove the back cover of the TCT and fit a bolt to wind it all together. To prevent the TCT from releasing all the components, fit the supplied pin into the small holes, bearing in mind the orientation of the TCT in the engine, and that the end with the bend needs to face towards the front of the car.
Fit the TCT back into the engine and replace the 10mm bolts. Do not hang off these bolts, they are only small, and will shear if you think He-Man-like torque is required.
You will now be able to see the pin through the maintenance hole. If anyone is watching at this stage, tell them to bugger off...you need to concentrate. If this goes wrong...the engine will need to be stripped 'til it is found.
Get a pair of long nose pliers, pictured earlier, and remove the pin ever so slightly, allowing you to get a better grip on the pin; remove it completely and set it aside somewhere safe. The TCT should have expanded, allowing the piston to push on the timing chain.
Refit the maintenance hole bolt.
Turn the engine on, and let it run for ~ 30 seconds. There will be a nasty noise for ~ 3 seconds...this is normal, and is just the piston not applying enough pressure on the chain while the oil is circulating. If it persists for any longer than 10 seconds, switch the engine off immediately and refit the old TCT/worm gear and piston.
If all is well, turn the engine off and refit the removed items such as the airbox, ensuring all pipes/hoses/bolts are connected properly.
What Can loftust do For Me?
I can:
a. Send you a sandblasted worm gear, piston and pin, for you to fit to your existing TCT.
This requires you to send your old worm gear and piston back to me as soon as physically possible. Please DO NOT forget to send the pin back.
b. Send you a TCT with a refurbished worm gear and piston inside.
I require your old TCT back, complete, including the pin...the same rule applies.
Anyone failing to return the old components will be hunted down like a dog. I am currently pursuing AshtonWMS as he failed to return an entire TCT, and will not respond to PMs. I am chasing him down and planning to pay him a visit at his workplace to 'rectify the issue'.
I require a guarantee that you will send the old components back. I get nothing out of doing this, and your cooperation ensures that others can be helped. I ask anyone taking advantage of this to return the components ASAP.
How Much Does it Cost?
For option a - £4 + any costs incurred to you for sending back your old items recorded delivery.
For option b - £6.50 + any costs incurred to you for sending back your old items recorded delivery.
All payments are to be made as a gift via PayPal.
Any small financial gains go towards buying more sand.
What do I Need to do?
Work out which of the aforementioned options you are going for.
Send me a PM, stating your requirements and delivery address. I will indicate when I can supply you with the refurbished item(s). I have a 2 week lead time at the moment.
I will send you my address to which you are to send components to, and provide my PayPal address. Once the funds have cleared I will send the item(s).
You let me know when they have arrived and fit them, sending your old bits back ASAP, including that pin!
Please do not ask other arbitrary questions about TCTs...there is a plethora of info out there, and the main bits have been covered in this thread.
I am only able to offer this service 'til Christmas as I join my next unit and will be a trifle busy.
I think that covers everything, and I hope that this is of use.
Just remember...I will hunt you down like a dog if you fail to send me components back. I treat it as theft, and will have no problem confronting you face to face if you fail to do so
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 8,076
Likes: 86
From: Costa del Cornwall
Nice one Loftust!
But I think you ought to ask for the old one before sending out the refurbed one, it's only going to mean a day or two without a car.
You have been bitten once, don't let it happen again mate!
But I think you ought to ask for the old one before sending out the refurbed one, it's only going to mean a day or two without a car.
You have been bitten once, don't let it happen again mate!
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 20,788
Likes: 8
From: location, location
good work Matt.Could post a link to the DIY for replacement - I cant for the life of me remember how to fit one it was 3-4 years ago.
Not worth while mentioning about the pulling the pin when fitting a new one? or is this thread just about refurbished ones?
I think mine might be on the way out and its going to be a ball ache to replace with the SC kit on, maybe get underneath and change it from underneath?
I'd ask for the old one first though mate, not everyone is trust worthy on here.
And i second loftust coming to look for you. If you fail to send components back, he will come and find you and bum into next week/to an inch of your life, better send the components back (unless your MB)
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,627
Likes: 0
From: Herts
To help lighten any potential load on Matt, my recent experience:
110k mile old TCT "died".
Foolishly, I bought a new one. It lasted less than 500 miles.
I whipped it out and took the worm gear and piston to a place in Windsor that I found on yellow pages website. He sandblasted them in about 5 mins one lunchtime, charged a fiver (I guess becasue it's a nice round number).
While the TCT was out, I also drilled the oil feed hole out from 0.03" to 0.06" (as near s makes no difference 0.75mm to 1.50mm). 1k miles later, still perfect.
A couple of points on refitting:
The pin method is the most reliable - as long as you don't drop the pin into the engine. However - iirc you need to remove the airbox to get to the 'inspection hole' that allows the removal of the pin. This can be avoided by removing the back plate (marked with NCT 1 or NCT 2) with the two bolts. Then remove the screw that is underneath it. Using a 5mm (80 pitch I think) nut, bolt and washer, re assemble the unit - you'll need to screw the piston right down onto the wormgear.
With the M5 bolt barely finger tight, move the nut down so that the whole mechanism is using it to brace against the body of the TCT.
You can then pop it into the block (when compressed properly, the whole unit will pop back in and mate up with the engine block) - remove the M5 and replace the screw and cover. Not very well described because it's early. There is a better description in a US thread.
One word of caution
If, when you refit the TCT, you have a whining noise that wansn't there before - that's the timing chain telling you it's too tight. Run like that and the engine will go bang imminently. Take the TCT out, make sure it's all as compressed as possible, and refit. The key bit, as above, is ensuring the piston is screwed down onto the worm gear. As a guide, you'll be left with about 10mm of piston protruding from the TCT unit itself.
If you have to screw the unit in to get it to face up to the engine block - then you didn't compress it enough so try again.
Hope some of that helps!
110k mile old TCT "died".
Foolishly, I bought a new one. It lasted less than 500 miles.
I whipped it out and took the worm gear and piston to a place in Windsor that I found on yellow pages website. He sandblasted them in about 5 mins one lunchtime, charged a fiver (I guess becasue it's a nice round number).
While the TCT was out, I also drilled the oil feed hole out from 0.03" to 0.06" (as near s makes no difference 0.75mm to 1.50mm). 1k miles later, still perfect.
A couple of points on refitting:
The pin method is the most reliable - as long as you don't drop the pin into the engine. However - iirc you need to remove the airbox to get to the 'inspection hole' that allows the removal of the pin. This can be avoided by removing the back plate (marked with NCT 1 or NCT 2) with the two bolts. Then remove the screw that is underneath it. Using a 5mm (80 pitch I think) nut, bolt and washer, re assemble the unit - you'll need to screw the piston right down onto the wormgear.
With the M5 bolt barely finger tight, move the nut down so that the whole mechanism is using it to brace against the body of the TCT.
You can then pop it into the block (when compressed properly, the whole unit will pop back in and mate up with the engine block) - remove the M5 and replace the screw and cover. Not very well described because it's early. There is a better description in a US thread.
One word of caution
If, when you refit the TCT, you have a whining noise that wansn't there before - that's the timing chain telling you it's too tight. Run like that and the engine will go bang imminently. Take the TCT out, make sure it's all as compressed as possible, and refit. The key bit, as above, is ensuring the piston is screwed down onto the worm gear. As a guide, you'll be left with about 10mm of piston protruding from the TCT unit itself.
If you have to screw the unit in to get it to face up to the engine block - then you didn't compress it enough so try again.
Hope some of that helps!
