Hey Guys,

I have recently picked up a new S2000. Its a 2003 with 104k miles. I also have a 51 plate S2000 with a 45k 04 engine in it. I was hopefully looking to put the 04 engine in the newer 03 car, but I am dreading doing this after looking at DIYs etc about removing the gearbox bolts etc. I have done engine swaps on B18C cars etc, but never RWD and I don't have a ramp.

Does anyone have lots of experience with this who would be willing to help? I am really not sure I want to try this on my own but feel that its a little bit of a waste keeping a car with more than double the milage of the one I have at the moment (the newer one is mint condition and the rare imola colour).

Any help or tips on removal would really help.

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The engine is only held in with two mounts, gearbox with a single brace.

Since Honda fit the engine, box, propshaft and diff as one piece from underneath, entirely possible to drop it out from underneath without having to separate engine and box.

This pic will show you how it makes sense

 

Iv just done an engine swap in mine, I found the biggest thing is getting all the hoses/ pipes out of the way.

When I refitted mine I fitted the clutch in wrong, so it had to come out again. The second time took around 2 hours.I didn't go for the pulling out from underneath.... I couldn't lift the car high enough.

Put a jack under the engine on a jack, remove the engine mount completely, drop the engine down on the jack. That will allow you to remove the top bolts.it helps if you slacken the gearbox mount.Dont forget to remove the clutch arm.

I used an engine lift( which you are welcome to use if you are local....Stoke). I needed the lift because I did the job on my own, but it does take the heavy work out of it.

If you need any more help let me know. If you pm me I will give you my phone number.

 

Hey Guys!

Thank you for your posts! Nexus, yea I see what you mean from the photo. Doesn't that mean dropping the subframe and steering rack out as well? I might give this a go on one of the cars, just so I can say I have done it!

Mr-Pitts, thank you for the offer of help! I have most of the tools needed including an engine hoist, but if I could have your number to maybe ring you if I get stuck that would be really good! It is the separation of the gearbox I am most not looking forward too. When you dropped the engine and box down slightly did you manage to get to the top bolts pretty easily?

I compression tested both engines yesterday and the 04 engine is showing slightly higher compression than the 01 engine. The only thing is, cylinder 2 on the 04 engine is 220 instead of 245. The car runs perfectly, do you think this could be an indication of a problem or a valve clearance or something?

 

Yes, once you take the mounts off and drop the unit down it's easy to get at the top bolts.1 of the starter motor bolts needs removing to split the engine/ box aswell so don't forget that. I will pm you my number later.

 

Nope.

Remove both manifolds (Exhaust/inlet) and it'll drop right out.

 

You may have to remove the crank pulley.

 

I took my current engine out last weekend. Went for the traditional 'out the top' method. I'm getting a bare replacement so wanted to leave the inlet mainfold on to make sure I get all the bits in the right place on the new engine! I looked at sliding it in/out from underneath (used to do my XR2 race car engine that way) but it is only a go-er if you strip off the inlet manifold. I'm planning on putting the new engine back in through the top as it will be built up. One problem I did have was how far back the engine sits in the bay. I use a Clarke 1ton engine crane which doesn't reach far enough back (even on longest arm setting) to get right over the centre of the engine. Meant a bit of 'man-handling' to ease the old engine out and I expect I'll have to 'swing' the new one into position when I install it. Found getting to the top gearbox bolts ok once the subframe was lowered as per the sevice manual guidance.

By the way - for Mr Pitts - what was the clutch snag if you don't mind sharing? I always try to learn from others!

 

The clutch snag, I didn't realise the clutch was a pull type release bearing..... As in you fit the release bearing on the inside of the cover, so that the fork slides into it once the engine/ box are bolted together.in effect when I split my box I had a basket of a job separating them although they where loose.Without knowing I ended up pulling the release bearing through the cover.I refitted them without thinking about it and only after found out it was a pull type release bearing,And the clutch pedal was solid, Doh!

I used a 2 tonne lift with the arm fully extended, somebody on here mentioned that he couldn't get the lift far enough back untill he removed the front bumper. As I already had my bumper off I never noticed it was a problem.

I think Razz had a problem splitting his, untill he realised about the clutch fork.

 

cheers for sharing! I was a bit confused when I read in the manual about "pulling the release fork and securing it with a shop-towel". Realised why when I dropped the box and saw the release bearing arrangement. Must remember to put the fork back in before mating up the box to engine!! While my friction plate is well gone and the pressure plate is worn on the 'fingers', I'm impressed by the quality and sturdiness of the release bearing. Will replace it anyway as part of the kit (especially as it is loadsamoney on its own). Re the engine crane reach - just taken my bumper off to give me a few more inches of reach - amazing how much headlight washer fluid comes out when you disconnect them!!! Think my reservoir must have been full as about 6litres drained into my bucket - think of the unnecessary weight!!