After a fair amount of research and trying to figure out, via the Helms manual and this site, where on earth the EVAP Bypass Solenoid was even located, I finally managed to get it replaced last week. After I closed it all up, it face-palmed myself and said, "I could've had a V8." No, wait, that was a different day. I face-palmed because I realized I should've done a DIY write-up that includes more details than the Billman one (no offense meant to the perennially helpful Billman, I just had a difficult time figuring out where to start so that I could arrive at the point where his DIY begins). Oh well, I didn't. Sorry. But, if anyone needs any help with theirs, feel free to PM me any time, and I'd be happy to guide you. It's very simple—and small hands are helpful.

Also, it should be noted that the part number for this part that is listed on the American Honda TSB, dated January 2003, is incorrect (17012-S01-A01). There are a couple of mentions of this on this forum, but it wasn't ever clear to me which part I should get. And, Honda does not have the correct or new part number listed as usurping the one listed in the TSB. The correct part number for American, non-Califorinia emissions, is 17012-S10-L01.

Though I'd previously replaced the gas cap and cleared the code twice in an effort to make this go away, the CEL always came back. Since replacing the solenoid, though, so far, so good. It's been about 100 miles since I did it, too. Fingers crossed that it's the fix for my DTC.

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One last thing: For those who might not know and because I had a rough time figuring this out...
The EVAP bypass solenoid is located on the driver's side of the car, beyond the edge of the door, toward the rear of the car. Jack the car up as high as you can (use jack stands, be safe, etc.). Remove three bolts from the black, metal heat shield thing (it's about as long as your arm or so). You'll see a bundle of things with some hoses and canisters. You'll need to finagle the rubber grommet/hook things (there are two) and unplug the orange plug (it'll be in your way), and you'll be able to pull the bundle of items down toward you. I found it easier to unplug one end the largest hose to better access everything. There are no screws or bolts, except for the four that attach the the EVAP bypass solenoid itself. Don't forget the o-rings!

 

FML. The check engine light came back on today. I welcome any suggestions.

 

Doh...thanks for the information but it sucks your CEL came back on. IsS it for the same code?

 

Yeah... I've been searching on here all morning. I hate to pay a mechanic or the stealership to do this. I think it's probably the canister or the two-way valve. I know I shouldn't throw parts at the problem, but I really hate paying for someone else to fix my car.

One other symptom is that I ran the gas tank pretty low yesterday, and then I got 3/4 of a tank of Shell 93 octane last evening, and drove four miles home. This morning, I drove two miles and the CEL came back. So I wonder if the fill-up (or 3/4 fill-up) triggered the issue.

Also, my ECU port (where I plug in my code reader) is really finicky. I have to wiggle, wiggle, and play with the connector to get it the code reader to connect to it. (It behaves as if there is a short in a wire somewhere.) What frightens me about that is that the EVAP Bypass Solenoid TSB from Honda says that sometimes a corroded solenoid can corrode the ECU. This car was purchased from Minnesota, where they do salt the roads in the winter, though to be fair, there is zero rust on the underside of the car. And the solenoid I replaced didn't look rusted or corroded at all (nor did the connectors).

 

LOL. I wonder if a can of BG44 in the tank would help. I was just thinking that I often run the car down to the last gallon, gallon-and-a-half of fuel.... I wonder if some impurities from the bottom of the tank got sucked into the system and if that's the case, if a can of BG would help. FWIW, I poured a whole can into a 1/4 tank of fuel right after I bought the car and changed all the fluids. That was about three months ago. The CEL thing just started two weeks ago.

 

Even though you replaced this solenoid, P1457 encompasses many other things in the system. I too, have been getting this code but only in winter and ONLY when the outside temps drop to very low levels. It has to be around 5F or much colder before I'll get the CEL to pop up. And I must have the car outside for long enough for all the stuff in the EVAP system to get as cold as the ambient temps. And the car must be driven XX miles before the light comes on. If I reset the CEL before the weather warms up, the light will come back on again once the previous parameters have been met. However, if I wait till it gets warm outside and then reset the CEL, it will not come back on again till it gets very cold again. Sometimes, the CEL won't come back on again till the following winter.
I believe at least in my case, that when it gets cold enough, one or more connections or hoses are leaking due to contraction. It may be that one of those little hoses is cracked but it doesn't present a problem till the cold gets to it. There has to be a leak somewhere in that rat's nest of hoses, joints, connections, etc. For me, to fix it permanently, I think I'd have to replace all the hoses, clamps and clean up all the wiring harnesses that exist in that area. Vacuum or pressure (depending on which side of the system you're looking at) must be developed or the ECU will see a malfunction. It's a fuel vapor recovery system and in your case, the level of the fuel tank may also have an effect on how the system develops vacuum/pressure. It shouldn't affect the way the engine runs. It's just annoying to see the CEL come on. Once your temps change (hot or cold) and the fuel tank is at a different level, try another reset and see how long it lasts. If the conditions that make the CEL come on is few and far between, maybe you could just put up with it. Changing everything in the system could become a nightmare. Billman's thread shows very nicely all the parts that inter-relate to each other in and around that solenoid.
In your case, it's not that cold outside, however, it's still possible that there is still a leak somewhere. For me, since mine is temperature related, I just leave it alone and wait till it gets a bit warmer. I haven't done a thing with mine since the light started coming on about 3 years ago. It only comes on a couple times each winter and it goes away upon reset once it gets warm.

 

xviper, That's really interesting. Yeah, it's not as cold as 5º F in Houston, that's for sure! Geez! It's only about 50º to 70º these days. The only other thing that might give me a clue is that sometimes—usually when it's pretty warm outside (85º-plus), I would—only occasionally—smell strong fuel vapor smell once I pulled into my garage. Now, I couldn't ever smell where it was really coming from, and there wasn't a visible leak. But it was once so strong that we thought there was gasoline that had spilled on the garage floor. Oddly enough, that was months ago and hasn't happened in a while, and this CEL just started two weeks or so ago.

 

Hot, cold, leads to contraction and expansion of things to varying degrees. You may have something that leaks when there is expansion rather than contraction as in my case. It may not even be any particular temperature that does it. It may be the change in temp that does it. And again, the level of the gas tank may contribute to how the system develops vacuum. So long as you know that it's always the same code, leave it till some of your parameters change and see what happens.

 

Interesting thought. Thanks.

 

I am wondering if you have tried a smoke test yet where you pump smoke into the lines and inspect for a leak. It could just be a air hose that has a small pin hole tear. Smoke is a good way to find it out