My S2000 suspension thread
12-11-2016, 09:57 AM
#11
yeah the stock car we just measured was 14.125". This explains why you also have relatively large amounts of bumpstop clearance on your Öhlins too.
__________________
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
12-11-2016, 10:40 AM
#13
Good idea if you have access to them! I think the amount of weight you've removed from the rear axle is having a larger effect then you thought. That entire list is either right on or behind the rear axle.
__________________
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit
12-11-2016, 10:44 AM
#14
Thread Starter
I assume I removed maybe 75LB from the rear axle. 37LB per wheel.
Maybe less...because the entire mass of the soft top wasn't on the rear axle when un-folded. The majority was, though. However...the hardtop's OEM glass is the majority of its weight...which is also over the rear axle.
damn my curiosity.
Maybe less...because the entire mass of the soft top wasn't on the rear axle when un-folded. The majority was, though. However...the hardtop's OEM glass is the majority of its weight...which is also over the rear axle.
damn my curiosity.
12-11-2016, 01:02 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Eh...I've been on long road trips and track days with my AP1 and my wife's AP2. The AP1 has been on a stock suspension at one point and a few different modded setups as well.
Honestly....I'd be perfectly happy with the stock suspension in both those situations...except that the car wouldn't be lowered.
My OPINION: I'll say that at *current* prices of $1800-1900, the Öhlins are great, and almost a no-brainer. At their original $2400, I would probably give them a resounding "no". Unfortunately, neither price includes the $300ish for aftermarket mounts, which, IMO, and in my situation, are necessary for proper ride quality...and are probably beneficial at the track. If I knew that from the beginning, I would have likely looked at a different setup.
At this point, I'd give them a "meh".
Hopefully, after the addition of said mounts, I'll fall in love with them. I'll have to report back when I drive the car again in a few months. I'm looking forward to that, as evidence points securely at the lack of travel being their achilles' heel.
Last edited by B serious; 12-11-2016 at 01:05 PM.
The following users liked this post:
S2000_916 (12-11-2016)
12-11-2016, 03:30 PM
#18
Great Info! I've actually ran into the same problem with my kw v3's, the issue with mine are that preload and height are both adjusted by one collar. what I am planning on doing is getting a longer tophat in the rear that allows the rear shock to travel a few extra inches.
12-11-2016, 04:24 PM
#19
I am curious at what amount of compression travel and at what ride height and spring rate will people end up with wheel travel issues, and end up with the tire coming into contact with the body.
As I have mentioned many times, the DFVs are much better suited to use 10kg springs in the rear. I don't think with more preload and compression travel with 8kg rear springs you will see different results over large freeway bumps at high speeds that send the rear of the car upward. While you can adjust the damper travel you aren't going to change the amount of wheel travel available with different lower mounts and more preload. The wheelbase of the car has a lot to do with how it reacts over certain size dips and bumps. And when the amount of wheel travel is reduced with lower ride height, this is going to happen no matter how good the dampers. Bottom line is you can't get the same amount of wheel travel on a lowered car as you can with a higher ride height. If you had the same travel before the bump stop, your tire hitting the body would be your new bump stop.
I will continue to push people to adjusting the geometry with roll center adjustment and slightly stiffer springs. I honestly even thing people with staggered tires would be better off swapping the springs around with 8kg front and 10kg rear. But maybe i am crazy.
I will continue to push people to adjusting the geometry with roll center adjustment and slightly stiffer springs. I honestly even thing people with staggered tires would be better off swapping the springs around with 8kg front and 10kg rear. But maybe i am crazy.
12-11-2016, 04:38 PM
#20
Thread Starter
Be pretty easy to figure out when/if the tyre will hit the body.
Also, installing a RCA to gain more travel would still possibly cause the tyre to become the new bumpstop.
Just install the wheel, jack up the LCA sans spring/shock, and measure the fender arch to hub center position when impact happens.
If I had a 12.25" fender-to-center ride height with 1" of available travel....I just need the tyre to not hit anything for maybe....idk...2.25" of further upward travel?
With a 12.25" fender to center distance and 1" free travel, the bumpstop would activate at 10.52" fender to center. Add another 0.5" for bumpstop compression. So...Idk? 2.25" until the shock stops?
That's a pretty bigassed bump, though.
Also, installing a RCA to gain more travel would still possibly cause the tyre to become the new bumpstop.
Just install the wheel, jack up the LCA sans spring/shock, and measure the fender arch to hub center position when impact happens.
If I had a 12.25" fender-to-center ride height with 1" of available travel....I just need the tyre to not hit anything for maybe....idk...2.25" of further upward travel?
With a 12.25" fender to center distance and 1" free travel, the bumpstop would activate at 10.52" fender to center. Add another 0.5" for bumpstop compression. So...Idk? 2.25" until the shock stops?
That's a pretty bigassed bump, though.