View Poll Results: What rear preload setting did you use?
Voters: 52. You may not vote on this poll
Ohlins DFV rear preload settings
10-26-2016, 05:09 PM
#31
So I used 6mm of rear spring preload. That resulted in a 1.44" spring compression at ride height. That is a clear spring travel of about .66" or about 17mm.
i really didn't change much from the oem spec so the result is to be expected. I hope to do some test drives this weekend.
i really didn't change much from the oem spec so the result is to be expected. I hope to do some test drives this weekend.
10-27-2016, 07:41 AM
#32
So I used 6mm of rear spring preload. That resulted in a 1.44" spring compression at ride height. That is a clear spring travel of about .66" or about 17mm.
i really didn't change much from the oem spec so the result is to be expected. I hope to do some test drives this weekend.
i really didn't change much from the oem spec so the result is to be expected. I hope to do some test drives this weekend.
Well...with 6mm preload, your initial spring length is 6mm shorter already.
Your shock is fully extended with a 7.64" (194mm) spring.
Are you calculating your final spring length at static by subtracting 1.44 from 7.64 to give you 6.2"?
Or are you just subtracting 1.44 from the original 7.87" (200mm) length? This is an incorrect measurement .
Convert to inches if that's what you're used to. 6mm is .24"
Full spring length is 200mm or 7.87"
7.87 - .24 = 7.64. That's your "zero". Start everything there.
Put the car on the ground. Measure the static spring length. Lets call that "static".
Subtract your static ride spring length from "zero":
[7.64 - Static = X]
Then take total free travel before bumpstop (which we know is 2.125) and subtract out X.
So 2.125 - X = Free travel at ride height.
Last edited by B serious; 10-27-2016 at 07:53 AM.
11-04-2016, 12:56 PM
#34
Ive had my ohlins on now for about 6 months both street and track. Setup with the stock specs, i havent felt any problems. I have been running the rebound settings very soft on the street as well. I started them 10 clicks from the softesf setting (apparently i did this incorrectly as youre supposed to count the stiffest as one and count up to the softest?). They feel great on the street at this setting.
Anyway ive been trying to follow these preload discussions and had an idea/question. If you were to set the shocks to the lowest ride height setting, and then dial in preload to raise the car to the desired ride height, shouldnt this get you the most shock travel at a given ride height?
Now i know others are having issues getting the car as low as they want, but I set the shock length to ohlins reccomendations and am more than happy with the drop and still have adj. to go lower. Any issues i might be overlooking in my method above? Not as exact as "measuring twice, adj once" that has been previously discussed, but still might have the desired results?
Anyway ive been trying to follow these preload discussions and had an idea/question. If you were to set the shocks to the lowest ride height setting, and then dial in preload to raise the car to the desired ride height, shouldnt this get you the most shock travel at a given ride height?
Now i know others are having issues getting the car as low as they want, but I set the shock length to ohlins reccomendations and am more than happy with the drop and still have adj. to go lower. Any issues i might be overlooking in my method above? Not as exact as "measuring twice, adj once" that has been previously discussed, but still might have the desired results?
11-04-2016, 01:01 PM
#35
^yes, you should lower the bottom bracket as far as possible and then set preload up ward in order to get more free travel.
the issue is that you run out of bottom bracket threads pretty quickly.
And too much preload/too short of a shock results in wheel lift at the track on turns . wheel lift opens up the LSD.
A possible solution would be stiffer springs with a gap...or with helper springs. And/or roll center adjusters.
On midwest roads, more shock travel would be nice. Mine ride quite well, I guess . Could be better with more travel. I can feel bumpstops all the time.
the issue is that you run out of bottom bracket threads pretty quickly.
And too much preload/too short of a shock results in wheel lift at the track on turns . wheel lift opens up the LSD.
A possible solution would be stiffer springs with a gap...or with helper springs. And/or roll center adjusters.
On midwest roads, more shock travel would be nice. Mine ride quite well, I guess . Could be better with more travel. I can feel bumpstops all the time.
Last edited by B serious; 11-04-2016 at 01:05 PM.
11-08-2016, 04:39 AM
#36
^yes, you should lower the bottom bracket as far as possible and then set preload up ward in order to get more free travel.
the issue is that you run out of bottom bracket threads pretty quickly.
And too much preload/too short of a shock results in wheel lift at the track on turns . wheel lift opens up the LSD.
A possible solution would be stiffer springs with a gap...or with helper springs. And/or roll center adjusters.
On midwest roads, more shock travel would be nice. Mine ride quite well, I guess . Could be better with more travel. I can feel bumpstops all the time.
the issue is that you run out of bottom bracket threads pretty quickly.
And too much preload/too short of a shock results in wheel lift at the track on turns . wheel lift opens up the LSD.
A possible solution would be stiffer springs with a gap...or with helper springs. And/or roll center adjusters.
On midwest roads, more shock travel would be nice. Mine ride quite well, I guess . Could be better with more travel. I can feel bumpstops all the time.
running into this currently...swift 11k rear springs, with the collar bottomed out in the rear, still not 100% as far as ride height. Its CLOSE, but not 100%. I might try RCA's in the rear now, but i dont want to stiffen up the rear end, so im in the midst of decisions and what i want to do. I am currently running ohlins recommended specs (2mm rear preload), and dont like the idea of changing it to introduce spring play regardless if its just happening when youve jacked the car up in the air. Would be curious to hear your opinions on rear RCA's and the benefits/disadvantages of running them.
11-08-2016, 05:05 AM
#37
running into this currently...swift 11k rear springs, with the collar bottomed out in the rear, still not 100% as far as ride height. Its CLOSE, but not 100%. I might try RCA's in the rear now, but i dont want to stiffen up the rear end, so im in the midst of decisions and what i want to do. I am currently running ohlins recommended specs (2mm rear preload), and dont like the idea of changing it to introduce spring play regardless if its just happening when youve jacked the car up in the air. Would be curious to hear your opinions on rear RCA's and the benefits/disadvantages of running them.
11-08-2016, 05:25 AM
#38
To reduce body roll and improve overall suspension performance, personally. Ohlins shocks can take up to 30% stiffer springs, provided you run the shocks in the higher range of damping adjustment. I previously ran 10/10 and thought it was still a little too soft for my liking. I have since swapped out to 13/11, which seems to be a significant improvement for me personally with the testing that i have done... As i keep mentioning, this is all personal preference and what you're looking for. If the factory springs are sufficient for you, stick with them.
Last edited by Cpt. Spock; 11-08-2016 at 05:33 AM.
11-08-2016, 06:23 AM
#39
I haven't run RCA's, but I assume you can play with sway bars to reduce the roll stiffness that you gained.
Since you're running 13K front springs, though, rear RCA's may not "un-balance" the car, so to speak.
What about a helper spring? Run the 11k's down further and use a helper spring to fill the gap. Hopefully, your 11K springs are much shorter than the 8K?
Since you're running 13K front springs, though, rear RCA's may not "un-balance" the car, so to speak.
What about a helper spring? Run the 11k's down further and use a helper spring to fill the gap. Hopefully, your 11K springs are much shorter than the 8K?
11-08-2016, 06:29 AM
#40
I haven't run RCA's, but I assume you can play with sway bars to reduce the roll stiffness that you gained.
Since you're running 13K front springs, though, rear RCA's may not "un-balance" the car, so to speak.
What about a helper spring? Run the 11k's down further and use a helper spring to fill the gap. Hopefully, your 11K springs are much shorter than the 8K?
Since you're running 13K front springs, though, rear RCA's may not "un-balance" the car, so to speak.
What about a helper spring? Run the 11k's down further and use a helper spring to fill the gap. Hopefully, your 11K springs are much shorter than the 8K?
Last edited by Cpt. Spock; 11-08-2016 at 06:34 AM.