RolanTHUNDER

I notice that you have the same SC kit as me. Nice! Have you had any belt slip issues frequently? Any pulley misalignment issues that you had to resolve? Does your kit have the 5th injector and do you use it or do you have upgraded injectors?
Sorry for all the questions

tkeyyy

i'm guessing you're talking about the lower bracket by the crank pulley? that bracket is held on by 2 10mm studs and quite annoying to install/remove due to the front cross beam. but to answer your question: you might be able to get away with removing just that bracket by the crank pulley, loosening the arbor screw tensioner, so you can put the bracket back without having the belt in your way, and then once the belt is around the crank pulley, tighten the arbor screw back up to the correct tension.

RolanTHUNDER

yes that's exactly what I'm referring to. The lowest point of the bracket where the belt loops under those studs to the idler pulley. So I should be able to loosen them from underneath the car?
the Arbor screw you speak of, is it the one that holds the smooth tensioner in place?

thanks very much for this info!

tkeyyy

the arbor screw tensioner is an adjustable screw on the backside of the bracket. you should be able to see it from underneath the car.
in regards to the 2 10mm studs - i haven't personally tried going under the car to loosen these, but it might be easier. it took me awhile to get those studs in from the top, reaching under the crossbeam

RolanTHUNDER

I can imagine. Once the SC is in its quite cramped to do anything around it. I noticed oil on my idler and tensioner pulleys. Guessing that could cause belt slippage too? Where could it be coming from?

RolanTHUNDER

My friend and I used xviper's thread on belt changing and spent 8 hours trying to do it but the bracket didn't want to budge one inch forward. Couldn't get the new belt on
now I have to take my car to a mechanic experienced with this stuff to replace it for me. Gonna cost me but, got no choice now since I couldn't DIY

tkeyyy

well that's unfortunate. sorry dude

tkeyyy

oil anywhere on the pulley/belt can cause slipping. if it's on the idler/tensioner pulley, it might be leaking from the bottom of the s/c, where the s/c oil line connects to your oil pan. if that hose or clamp is loose, you have to remove the whole s/c to redo it. i'd get everything checked if you're going to have the s/c removed anyways.

Singh_snisen

Leave belt off. Have fun na. All the superchargers have problems with belt snapping and slipping. The vortech and comptech kits r known for this. The sos and kraftswerks kits r superior but imo the kraftswerks is a little better because u get more hp for ur money. And aesthetically looks better imo. As far as ur belt snapping, get a gates endurance belt, as these things r really strong. U prob have a problem with ur tensioner,idler, or brackets to help support the SC. Lock tight everything down , get a new belt and give it a try. If it happens again idk then. How much hp u making? Running na on a SC tune is not smart but doable. Keep the rpms low.

bruthaboost

I know everyone has different levels of mechanical comfort, but don't let removing the blower assembly intimidate you.

1. Remove aftercooler from blower
2. Remove serpentine belt: use a 14mm box end wrench on the tensioner pulley.
3. Remove vtec solenoid: 3 allen head bolts.
4. Remove the two 8mm allen head bolts at the cylinder head.
5. Remove the lower bracket's 10mm nuts. There are two of them.
6. Remove the idler pulley bolt and spacer. Make sure you don't lose the back spacer from the idler pulley. It can drop when you remove the pulley.
7. Remove the 17mm? bolt holding the blower bracket to the exhaust side of the cylinder head.
8. Pull blower assembly from the block.

When re-assembling be mindful of the vtec solenoid rubber gaskets (you have two of them). I like to have one hand as a precaution. You bust it, you are dead in the water. It's easy to pinch and cut them on the bracket and cylinder head edges.

Hope this helps.