driftqueen

Anyone have a DIY for removal of old oil pan and install of a new (baffled) one? I've been looking all day and can't seem to find a DIY anywhere. I went with the Blacktrax baffled pan since I discovered after autox on sunday that the last person who did my oil stripped the plug... just decided to go big and do a baffled pan

d1000rr

here

shiv

I have the Blacktrax as well, depending on your usage I would take it off every so often and check the condition of the baffle welds. My welds are cracking after 2 seasons of use. Others have experienced this as well. Just a thought.

zeroptzero

Here are a couple pointers, most of the work is self explanatory or just common sense.

There are bolts at the a/c bracket that need removal before the pan lets loose, a lot of people forget about those bolts and they don't look like obvious ones to hold the pan in place. I use a flexible box end ratcheting wrench, the one with the flexible head as you need to get in there at an angle if doing it from below, I think they are 12mm bolts. Some people loosen them from above the engine bay but I've done it from below.

Keep track of all the bolt locations as the bolts get removed, some of the bolts are different lengths and they need to go into the correct hole on installation or you risk breaking something. If you can avoid filling the pan with oil and running the car for 12 hours it may help, it's not necessary but a bit of cure time will work best.

When you apply the gasket sealer to the perimeter of the new oil pan, install the pan and tighten all bolts evenly just to the point where the gasket sealer just starts to ooze out. Once you see the gasket sealer oozing out, stop tightening the bolts and let it sit for about 30 minutes, then go back and torque all of the bolts to spec using a torque wrench.

Good luck.

driftqueen

I was seriously considering the Canton baffled pan, but since it wasn't an oem pan I was worried about it's ability to withstand daily/winter driving, hence why I chose the Blacktrax. If this was a purely track/autox car then I would've definitely chosen the Canton. Is the blacktrax a bad choice? I already ordered it, but it hasn't shipped yet, so I could always order a different one. Just the fact that it has a limited lifetime warranty for the welds was nice. I couldn't find much feedback on it to see how well they held up

shiv

I'm going with Canton over the winter just because its baffles are more robust , and as they are integrated to the pan, there is no worry of cracking. While the Blacktrax fitment is perfect due to the use of a oem pan, myself and others have had the welds crack. Not saying it doesn't work, but I would monitor the condition of the welds.

driftqueen

Was I wrong to worry about the cantons ability to handle winter dd? Just trying to make sure I chose the right pan, since they're not that far apart $$ wise

shiv

If installed correctly, I see no reason why it wouldn't work. Something else to keep in mind with the Canton is that it does not have the cooling fins like the oem pan does, so its probable that you will see increased oil temps. So you may consider adding an oil cooler as many have to offset any temp increases.

driftqueen

Anyone know if I have to remove the front tie bar to unbolt the AC compressor? I've never done anything like this, and theres a bolt thats attached to the oil pan that I can't reach. fmllllll

MorngWoodStewie

Just remove the compressor not the bracket that is inbetween pan and compressor it is a pain to get to the top ones (get to them through the bay on top) once you remove the comp. And pan then you can take bracket off and put on your new pan or whatever your doing. Hope this helps.