I'm building the ultimate autocross tire trailer
08-03-2016, 06:38 PM
#12
I assume you mean like what kind of hitch? I'll be building my own custom hitch.
08-06-2016, 04:49 PM
#15
Assuming you've already have or have started acquiring the welding skills, and have an adequate strength MIG welder, this seems like an excellent project. Building a Harbor Freight like trailer seems to be one of the recommended welding projects. The key is decent welds with very good penetration.
However, a steel trailer could be a bit heavy for an S2k to tow. Aluminum is more a bolt-together project.
The suspension seems overly complex. Are the mountain bike shocks, made for about a 100# load, really up to the load and duty cycle you are proposing? A more conventional solution would be a torsion arm spring would be a much simpler and more targeted solution.
This aluminum 40"x42" kit for $400 has a 1000# capacity. The kit doesn't include the box or cover. http://www.northernt...60342_200660342
boyguan comment on rear overhang matches my experience. My 26' enclosed trailer, like many/most car trailers is very low. The rear scrapped in driveways and on inclines. I ended up installing 2" diameter steel rollers for the problem. This would be overkill here because the trailer can be higher off the ground. However, the trick will be positioning the load and the length of the arm to get the right tongue weight.
However, a steel trailer could be a bit heavy for an S2k to tow. Aluminum is more a bolt-together project.
The suspension seems overly complex. Are the mountain bike shocks, made for about a 100# load, really up to the load and duty cycle you are proposing? A more conventional solution would be a torsion arm spring would be a much simpler and more targeted solution.
This aluminum 40"x42" kit for $400 has a 1000# capacity. The kit doesn't include the box or cover. http://www.northernt...60342_200660342
boyguan comment on rear overhang matches my experience. My 26' enclosed trailer, like many/most car trailers is very low. The rear scrapped in driveways and on inclines. I ended up installing 2" diameter steel rollers for the problem. This would be overkill here because the trailer can be higher off the ground. However, the trick will be positioning the load and the length of the arm to get the right tongue weight.
08-08-2016, 07:47 AM
#16
Originally Posted by DavidNJ
Assuming you've already have or have started acquiring the welding skills, and have an adequate strength MIG welder, this seems like an excellent project. Building a Harbor Freight like trailer seems to be one of the recommended welding projects. The key is decent welds with very good penetration. However, a steel trailer could be a bit heavy for an S2k to tow. Aluminum is more a bolt-together project. The suspension seems overly complex. Are the mountain bike shocks, made for about a 100# load, really up to the load and duty cycle you are proposing? A more conventional solution would be a torsion arm spring would be a much simpler and more targeted solution. This aluminum 40"x42" kit for $400 has a 1000# capacity. The kit doesn't include the box or cover. http://www.northernt...60342_200660342 boyguan comment on rear overhang matches my experience. My 26' enclosed trailer, like many/most car trailers is very low. The rear scrapped in driveways and on inclines. I ended up installing 2" diameter steel rollers for the problem. This would be overkill here because the trailer can be higher off the ground. However, the trick will be positioning the load and the length of the arm to get the right tongue weight.
Interestingly, it's shipping weight is only about 15 less lbs than the steel trailer.
08-08-2016, 07:50 AM
#17
Originally Posted by SportInjected
That looks very nice! Which trailer is this? also, what hitch are you using? Thanks!
NT trailer is better than the HF version.
12-08-2016, 05:56 PM
#18
Update: I FINALLY have acquired some steel tubing for the frame so I can start building soon. I have also modified my plans a bit for some of the details. I have decided against the underframe jack carrier due to the departure angle problem, in addition to the significant extra weight and fabrication complexity. I can place my big jack across the deck if I want but I am open to the possibility of a smaller, lighter, and hopefully cheap jack that I could put wherever. I really, really don't want to jack around with ramps so I would really like to have it clear the side jack points on a lowered car.
In response to concerns about the mountain bike shocks being up to the job, I'm actually more concerned about the bushing longevity in the eyelets. Some of my research says that the bushings don't even really last very long in there intended usage. I've been wanting to install spherical bearing in them but the largest ones I could possibly fit would only allow a 1/4" bolt to go through. That's technically strong enough, but I don't want to push anything to the extremes here. I would have loved to have found some dampers that were a little heavier duty but this was as close as I could get off the shelf with a length/ travel/ spring rate/ adjustability that I could design around. If these shocks ever die I might look into quarter midget shocks.
Sure, I could take the easy path by starting with a trailer kit or using off the shelf torsion axles, but a big part of this project is to challenge myself, learn some new skills, and sharpen the ones I already have. This project isn't meant to be totally easy.
In response to concerns about the mountain bike shocks being up to the job, I'm actually more concerned about the bushing longevity in the eyelets. Some of my research says that the bushings don't even really last very long in there intended usage. I've been wanting to install spherical bearing in them but the largest ones I could possibly fit would only allow a 1/4" bolt to go through. That's technically strong enough, but I don't want to push anything to the extremes here. I would have loved to have found some dampers that were a little heavier duty but this was as close as I could get off the shelf with a length/ travel/ spring rate/ adjustability that I could design around. If these shocks ever die I might look into quarter midget shocks.
Sure, I could take the easy path by starting with a trailer kit or using off the shelf torsion axles, but a big part of this project is to challenge myself, learn some new skills, and sharpen the ones I already have. This project isn't meant to be totally easy.
