redleader

After reading all the threads and discussions on tinting the rear window, I decided to try it myself. Everyone here who's done it says it is real easy to do and takes all but 10 minutes!?!

I bought some static cling tint from home depot (3' x 6.5' for $12.97). Actually putting the tint on the car, and squeegie-ing out the soapy solution really didn't take that long. The tint is real easy to work with. What takes the most time, as those who've already done it know, is cleaning the window and cutting the piece to fit. I cut mine a little big so it extends beyond the bound of the window. But you can't see it because it is under the top at that point. BUT, they are right, the window AND the piece of tint has to be really, really, REALLY clean! Even though I thought I had cleaned it well, when it was all dried and done, I saw a lot of dust specs all over. For a cheap solution, its not bad. From more than 2 feet away, you can't see the specs and it looks clean.

HOWEVER, I am a little disappointed that it is actually quite blurry. Considering the fact that the factory window, with nothing on it is already not that clear, putting another thick piece of plastic on it does not help. Note that the static tint is not thin like regular tint, it is much thicker, so that hampers the visibility. Oh well, its the price for having tint on a plastic window I guess. At least now I dont have to get out of the car everytime I put the top down to put that stupid tube/towel on the window to keep it from scratching. THat's the best part of the tint, is its protection.

Any other tint-veterans have similar experiences?

almilli

I'm by far not a tint expert, but it sounds like the soap solution you are using isn't clear or it just isn't dry yet. I know when you first get your windows tinted (on glass), they say that you might experience some cloudy areas for a few days because of the solution that they use in between the tint and the glass isn't dry yet. Did you wait a few days to check if it goes away? I would leave the top up until it completely dries to avoid any extra variables.

David

JTS2K

David,

I'm going to do this to mine once she arrives. The only advice I need is for cutting. I shutter at the thought of getting a blade close to her. Did you lay the tint over the window & mark your outline with a marker or soap or what? I too intend to have the tint overrun under the tops lip. What brand did you buy? Is it 20% or 35%? I'm a little concerned about visibility because I will have a taller tinted windscreen (Rick's 7/8). What application solution did you use? You can buy solution or use water with 3 drops of baby shampoo. Thanks!

exNSX

I agree, static cling tint doesn't have the clarity of regular glass tint film, but I may try to re-do mine with a less soapy solution and see if that helps.

It sure gives the look I want however, and will likely protect the outside of the window from scratches.

I have the 7/8 tinted wind screen as well which I sometimes use in conjunction with the top up, especially when parked.

Once the piece is cut it goes on and off as easy as pie. If you don't want to cut it yourself, Speed2000 is selling pre-cut pieces for $30 shipped in the Group Buys forum (that's what I did).

BB AP1

Any pics?

cjb80

I was inpired by this thread this morning and I went out and got the materials. About 15 minutes ago I just finished doing it, it took about 10-15 minutes to do. One thing that you should make sure you do is have a spray bottle there and spray the shit out of the window. make it soaking/dripping wet when you put the tint on... That would also help get any little specs of dirt off (re: original poster & specs of dust)

Here is the album...

http://www.s2000online.com/forums/showthre...6022#post206022

redleader

..cutting it is tricky. You should cut it on a table or something to make it easy and safer. However, how do you get the measurements of the window? With no template, you're going to have to lay a sheet on top of the window and then either trace around it with something (pencil, pen? what?) and then take the piece back to a flat surface where you can take your xacto knife (or similar) to cut it up. Well, what I did was I measured roughly the size of the window, in a rectangular shape (although the window is actually not rectangular), then cut a rectangular piece of that size and laid it on the window. now, there are a few inches or so overlapping the edge of the window. I went ahead and applied it that way. Then, when it was much drier I used the knife and very, very, very carefully cut off the excess. This is precision stuff here because you have to be able to go deap enough to cut the material but NOT touch the window or the top. Yes, it was difficult, but I did it.

The best thing to do is to get the tech manual or other literature, and find the dimensions on the window. Then, you can measure it off on the tint and cut it on a flat surface. However, the top and bottom of the window are actually curved, so how do you measure this? Well, since I have access to CAD software and a plotter at work, I'd plan on drawing the shape on CAD, with the proper curvature top and bottom of the window, plotting it out on paper, then overlaying it on the tint to use a template. Sounds complicated, but, I don't know how else to get the exact shape of the window.

Oh, and I didn't "soak the sh_t out of the window and tint", I'll do that the next time I try to reapply it. That's the beauty of static tint, you can do it over again if you don't like it.

ceworkman

Normally we use the clear plastic release liner that comes off of normal window film to make templates for windows that are not easily cut out using standard techniques. The problem here as I have mentioned in other threads is three fold:
1. Any time you touch the window with anything you are going to produce scratches even if they are almost invisible to the eye. If you must tint it then try wetting the outside of the window with a mild soap solution (we use baby shampoo since it has no harsh grease cutters in it like dish detergent), then lay the film over the window. You will need to tack it in place by squeegeing some of the water out of the middle of it. You can buy a basic window squeege at Pep Boys or Autozone or any do it yourself autoparts store. Take a marker and tuck your fingernail under the edge border of the window pressing the film close to the border and behind your finger take a marker and trace the edge all the way around. I would suggest not using a permanent marker. Afterwards, spray the soap solution on a glass surface and place the film on it. Squeege the entire piece and then using an Olfa knife or razor blade or exacto, trim the window on the top side of the line and maybe a little too big. Be careful about your cutting surface since sometimes the blade will scratch if it is dull or you are using a steel blade, so in other words, don