s2000Junky

Those are good numbers. A bore scope would be an easy thing to do next to check for scoring. If no scoring then id think it must be valve seals on that cylinder.

Mullallyman

Bore scope showed good signs. No scoring on the cylinder wall and after two days of sitting it had a little bit of oil in the valve slits on the piston on the exhaust side. So looks to be the exhaust valve seals have gone bad. Going to replace all four seals while I'm at it and put a new plug in. Will update after having driven it some and see if it fixed the problem.

s2000Junky

That's good news really. Best case scenario with something like this.

Mullallyman

There was a big feeling of relief when i got the scope down in there haha. Plan on building the engine this summer anyways but i really didn't wanna have to drive my Suburban for the next 4 months!

Slowcrash_101

I'll have a valve stem seal diy some time next week if I have time. Although if you've changed retainers it's pretty much the same. You can use spark plug pliers to yank out the old seals. The plastic rubber end tips will prevent you from damaging the valve stems and guides. Then just lightly tap in the new seals with a 10mm deep socket until the seal bottoms out. It'll make a different sound when it's all the way on. Much like the tone changes once you've loosend the keepers.

Don't use pliers or vice grips to pull the seals, you could scratch the valve stems or guides. Some people torch the seals first but I've never tried that.

If you lack an air compressor, you can stuff nylon rope or any rope that won't leave little hairs behind, into the cylinder to jam the valves shut without metal on metal action. Obviously remove the cams before doing this, well you have to anyway to remove the retainers.

Mullallyman

I have an air compressor and the hose adpater to do it but i feel like the rope is more safe personally. I will probably do the rope trick this time as i will be using the hammer tool instead of the compressor. I did my retainers with the compressor and air but I don't know about doing the seals that way

tozerman

When I did my retainers I just put the piston @ TDC, the valve merely drops a few mm only, no need for air or rope or anything, you will not lose you valve if at TDC

Mullallyman

Valve seals have been replaced and have driven the car for a week. Did not seem to burn as much oil as it used to (only put 150 miles on it so can't really tell). Its not blowing clouds of smoke after idle anymore so that is definitely a plus. Pulled the new plug i put in and it had a little bit of browning to it but that could be from the oil buildup on the piston from before. Will update at 500 mile mark and let know if the problem has actually been fixed!

jyeung528

looking forward to the update

Urus

if it was bad rings and much oil in the combustion chamber - compression test can show very good numbers.
4th cilinder eating more sand than others if bad filter used... but i not so bad as your plug looks)
smoke can be fuel - if injector fail. you should test it first