eromeroS2K

you just said the same thing i did, and i was reffering to the picture i attached along with, with more words i guess, i type quickly and make typos and this forum does not let me edit my comments, put a sock on it man, lmao, im not desperate im pissed cuz i know its something stupid, thanks for the input, i have some people saying its also a bad ground on the starters behalf ? to just ground manually the starter . can that be true even if there is no current on switch "I" ??????

Spartarus

Ok, so I posted more specific directions for you, and here's a piece of sage advice. Ignore what people are telling you unless they can explain it in terms that you can understand. If they can't do that, they don't understand it well enough.

I have met a lot of mechanics in my life, both well qualified and otherwise. Almost all of them use the "dartboard" or "guess and check" approach to diagnostics. I've seen it work, and not work, but it's a combination of luck and "intuition" ...If you want to call it that. I iterated a logical approach to solving the problem. If you follow the directions correctly, you will isolate the problem in under an hour. Once you isolate it, you can fix it. Any other approach is blind guessing. It may work. If you choose that approach, I wish you good luck, may you be correct on your first guess..

To answer your latest question, I'm going to post the circuit diagram for the starter. If everything is working, there will only be voltage on switch "I" when the key switch is on and the starter button is pressed (when the engine is cranking over) Otherwise there will not be any voltage at that switch ever.

Switch "I" does not connect to the starter. The only thing that switch "I" does, is it completes the ground for the signal (low side) of the starter cut relay. It's 2 circuits removed from the starter. It is labeled "clutch interlock switch" in this diagram. Click to expand.

I can't stress enough, the only way to do this correctly is to follow the directions. I'll make it easier, if you can be patient. You can skip to step 3 if you don't want to dig into the engine bay. Report the results of step 3, and I can still work backward with the information, and a few assumptions. That said, you will have to be prepared for the possibility of wasting time chasing the wrong answer, as you will have left the entire high side untested.

BalladeSports

My Theory Dr. Watson is.... Your original starter did in fact go bad. You then proceeded to purchase a new starter in hopes to remedy your issue. Upon installing your new starter you possibly neglected to make good contact with the B connector which is a female clip that has a rubber grommet covering. This sometimes can be installed making contact but not fully. Thus under the assumption you had in fact installed your starter correctly, you had then proceeded to look in other directions to find the culprit who had been laying there all along. Sherlock Holmes accent and all. Boom! Lol. Haha let me know if aim right. If not, oh well good luck to you. Was fun trying to play detective!

eromeroS2K

thanks for taking your time man, i am going to go over your steps Saturday when i have time off work and its daylight, i am definitely trying to follow the steps of people who show knowledge not following random advice, i will update you on your steps results on saturday evening !!!!! =)

B serious

This was my guess as well.

Also...OP...any chance your trans/engine-to-chassis ground is bad?

eromeroS2K

ill shoot you some pics on saturday from under the car, im sure i had to detach 2 grounds and reattach them again when i changed the alternator, both about 4 inches away from each other on the same metal section right under the starter.

eromeroS2K

Ill post the answer in a bit

s2000Junky

I did the bypass for my clutch switch and every once in a wile my car does the same thing - nothing. I attribute it to just my hack job closing the circuit with a wire and doesn't make perfect contact every time to close the loop. I suggest getting under there and making sure your clutch switch is in a closed loop.

eromeroS2K

Problem was the following, i am 99% sure that the starter DID indeed go bad. in doing so, it shorted and burned my Engine Start fuse under the dashboard 7.5 Amps, and it also burned my clutch pedal switch, the one on the top. After replacing the starter i figured that that was the problem, and i took it to a mech and he checked my fuses BUT.... apparently he didnt do a very good job because today i found the blown fuse related to the Starter, i replaced that fuse with a good one and i tried again, NOTHING, i checked the Starter signal fuse thats almost next to the one that burned on the other row of fuses and it was healthy but had no current, so i figured to prevent any more errors, i unplugged one more time the clutch switch and bypassed it, and when i pushed the Engine Start button car lit up on the spot !!!!!! i highlighted the bad fuse, and the other fuse that led me to notice that the switch on the pedal was also bad.


yellow circled fuse was Burnt, blue fuse was healthy but no current

windhund116

Thanks, for posting this answer. Hopefully, the problem is solved.