Hondalover518

Are the ap1 and ap2 rear upper control arms the same? I am having camber issues with my ap1. It is lowered on tien springs and I am thinking about getting adjustable control arms to help fix the problem. The ones I found are for ap2 and I can not find anything for the ap1. If you guys could give me some info that would be great.

B serious

The car has a built in camber adjustment. Do you need more adjustment than the factory adjuster is capable of?

No, AP2 UCA's will not work.

Hondalover518

Yes, it's adjusted all the way out

B serious

SPC makes adjustable upper ball joints that you can press into existing arms.

Its very strange that its adjusted all the way out and you're still not able to get where you want.

Are you sure they are turning the camber adjuster and not the toe adjuster?

Hondalover518

I'll have to go back and check

Slowcrash_101

There's only two things that will keep you from getting the camber the way you want. Either the knuckle is bent, usually the lower ball joint mounting point will be touching the knuckle if it's bent. Or the tech doing it is turning the wrong adjuster. The tie rod actually controls the camber, and the bolt has to be on the right side of the eccentric adjuster for it to be maxed out. The one at the rear of the car sets the toe, but they affect each other as well. You have to play with them a little bit, a used good knuckle goes for around $100, which is a bit cheaper than adjustable ball joints. You could just swap out the one that doesn't give you enough camber, unless it's both arms that are doing it. In which case the tech just has to try a little harder.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-08-HOND...pXMmyZ&vxp=mtr

FYI the knuckles are interchangeable for all years.

freetors

Pretty sure that's incorrect other than the fact that there is significant crosstalk between them.

I remember the last time I did an alignment and I was setting rear camber/toe and every time I adjusted the toe it "undid" the camber adjustment I just set. When I reset the camber it "undid" the toe. After a couple iterations of this I realized I would have to use both adjusters at the same time to sneak up on the desired specs.

Slowcrash_101

That's why I said you need to play with them. But it's correct, the tie rod is connected to the bottom of the knuckle @ a 6 o'clock position. The rear control arm is at 9 o'clock. Think about what happens to the knuckle if you shift it from either position. If you only max out the tie rod you'll end up with toe out, if you max both out you'll have toe in, but not the greatest camber available.

freetors

I guess we have different names for the parts. I refer to your "control arm" as the "toe link", and your "tie rod" as the "control arm" or "a-arm", or whatever. I've never seen anybody, on this forum or anywhere else, refer to the lower control arm as a tie rod though.

Slowcrash_101

The arm at the back of the car is the lower control arm of the car(where the shock and end links bolt up), you'll notice it attaches to the rear of the knuckle. Like the hinges on a door. Pretend your hand is the knuckle, the control arm attaches to the heel of your wrist and the adjuster moves it laterally. The tie rod attaches right above the knife of your hand. Push either mounting point and tell me what your hand does.



Or you can just look at a picture.