Tick tick tick...why is my engine ticking?
03-23-2007, 03:51 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Tick tick tick...why is my engine ticking?
I've noticed that around 60k miles or so, some S2000's get an annoying ticking sound coming from the engine bay. Recently, that happened to mine. I have an 05 with about 60k on it right now.
The ticking started out small. Just a quick rattle as I started the car. Eventually it became more noticable and would happen when I was just starting out in first. After a while of degredation, it's a constant ticking.
So, what's the problem? The cam chain tensioner has ceased to function properly and you're getting chain slap on the inside of your motor. The tensioner is self adjusting so there's nothing to fiddle with that could cause it to tighten up. The cause is usually from running low on oil one or more times (very easy to do on AP1's). It has also been discovered that the worm screw in tensioner gets glazed over on its threads which contributes to the issue.
The tensioner is lubricated through the oil system so it depends on fresh and full oil to operate properly. Let's take a look at how to resolve the problem.
The tensioner is located just below the vtec solenoid.
The outer cover is held in place with two silver bolts. The tensioner itself is held in with two gold bolts circled in red. These are the ones you need to remove.
The tensioner is held firm with two o-rings. You'll have to jiggle it to get it out since it's in there tight. Oh, did I mention to make sure your car is cooled off first?
Once you pull the tensioner, the center piston will relax.
Make sure to cover the area below the tensioner with a rag as some oil will leak out. Also, there is still oil in the tensioner so be careful.
Once it's out, you can separate the inner workings:
From left to right you have the tensioner housing, the outer spring, one way screw, inner spring, inner spring insert, and the piston. These are all technical terms that I've come up with myself.
The key to the tensioner and the beautiful engineering that Honda put into it, is that the piston can only move in one direction, out. Once the tensioner is out of the car, you can't just slide it back in. The piston only relaxes outward, not inward so once the slack is taken up in the chain, it cannot force the piston back. This is due to the fact that the one way screw is tapered on one end. It allows the piston to unwind it in one directions, but it cannot compress it.
Now, this also makes installation a PITA. First, remove the backing plate by taking out the two 10mm bolts and proceed to clean all of the parts thoroughly in the oil of your choice. Don't clean it with anything that will affect your engine oil as it will be reintroduced into your system. An engine oil additive or cleaner is a suitable choice. For added assurance, you can either gently sand down the threads of the worm screw or media blast it with something such as aluminum oxide to remove the glazing.
Notice that at the top of the tensioner housing, there are two holes on either side. Find a bit of wire that can be inserted into those holes. It needs to be atleast 1/4" long. Put that in close proximity as you'll need it soon.
Next, assemble the inner spring insert, the inner spring and one way screw and insert them just slightly into the piston.
Take the tensioner housing and insert the outer spring into it. Now, carefully slide the two together. The reason you want to do it in this order is that if all of the components are in the housing and you just simply insert the pistion over the top, there's a good chance that the threads on the one way screw will not start properly.
Ok, now here comes the hard part. Grab a friend (oh, I forgot to mention you might need one other person as well) and either a phillips screwdriver or some long thin rod with a blunt end. Preferably a blunt object without a point. Make sure the rear backing plate has not been reinstalled and place the assembly on its end with the piston pointing upwards. Having the backing plate off helps you balance it better.
Now, have one person take the blunt tool that you've chosen and apply downward pressure onto the piston. While that person is applying downward pressure, the other person needs to turn the piston clockwise. As it turns, it will wind its way back onto the one way screw. It's easy at first, but when you get close to the end, you'll probably need a pair of needle nose to turn the piston. Oh, and be careful if you chose the screwdriver or other pointy tool as there's a good chance it will slide off and stab the other guy in the hand and the parts will go shooting across the room. With practice and enough lubrication, you can actually do it by yourself using your thumb to depress the piston and the other hand to turn the whole assembly.
Once the piston is down far enough, you can insert the tiny wire you have into the end keeping the piston compressed.
When you buy a new one, there is a long pin that goes through both holes and the piston is completely compressed, but that last millimeter is the hardest. I find it's easy enough to just get it to the recess.
Ok, now after that's done take it out and do it again b/c I forgot to tell you which hole to use for the pin make sure you insert the pin into the side that's opposite to the black screw on the top of the housing as pictured. Make sure to trim the wire if needed as it cannot go past the outside diameter of the tensioner in order to fit the hole the assembly goes in.
Now, go to the engine and unbolt the one hex screw that's next to the tensioner hole. That's your access window.
Insert the tensioner back into it's spot. Tighten both bolts back onto it. If you did everything right, you'll see the pin through the access hole.
After your bolts are tightened, reach in with needle nose pliers and holding the pin very tightly, pull the pin out. You should hear the piston relax and hit the cam chain guide. Make sure you don't drop the pin on the inside of the engine or you'll be in worse shape than when you started.
Ok, so you're done. It's best to change to fresh oil while after you've done this to flush the system out nicely. If not, then double check your level after you're done.
What did this save? Well, a $110 part for one and the embarrassment of having a really nice car that rattles at stoplights. Hope this helps atleast a few.
-Joe
The ticking started out small. Just a quick rattle as I started the car. Eventually it became more noticable and would happen when I was just starting out in first. After a while of degredation, it's a constant ticking.
So, what's the problem? The cam chain tensioner has ceased to function properly and you're getting chain slap on the inside of your motor. The tensioner is self adjusting so there's nothing to fiddle with that could cause it to tighten up. The cause is usually from running low on oil one or more times (very easy to do on AP1's). It has also been discovered that the worm screw in tensioner gets glazed over on its threads which contributes to the issue.
The tensioner is lubricated through the oil system so it depends on fresh and full oil to operate properly. Let's take a look at how to resolve the problem.
The tensioner is located just below the vtec solenoid.
The outer cover is held in place with two silver bolts. The tensioner itself is held in with two gold bolts circled in red. These are the ones you need to remove.
The tensioner is held firm with two o-rings. You'll have to jiggle it to get it out since it's in there tight. Oh, did I mention to make sure your car is cooled off first?
Once you pull the tensioner, the center piston will relax.
Make sure to cover the area below the tensioner with a rag as some oil will leak out. Also, there is still oil in the tensioner so be careful.
Once it's out, you can separate the inner workings:
From left to right you have the tensioner housing, the outer spring, one way screw, inner spring, inner spring insert, and the piston. These are all technical terms that I've come up with myself.
The key to the tensioner and the beautiful engineering that Honda put into it, is that the piston can only move in one direction, out. Once the tensioner is out of the car, you can't just slide it back in. The piston only relaxes outward, not inward so once the slack is taken up in the chain, it cannot force the piston back. This is due to the fact that the one way screw is tapered on one end. It allows the piston to unwind it in one directions, but it cannot compress it.
Now, this also makes installation a PITA. First, remove the backing plate by taking out the two 10mm bolts and proceed to clean all of the parts thoroughly in the oil of your choice. Don't clean it with anything that will affect your engine oil as it will be reintroduced into your system. An engine oil additive or cleaner is a suitable choice. For added assurance, you can either gently sand down the threads of the worm screw or media blast it with something such as aluminum oxide to remove the glazing.
Notice that at the top of the tensioner housing, there are two holes on either side. Find a bit of wire that can be inserted into those holes. It needs to be atleast 1/4" long. Put that in close proximity as you'll need it soon.
Next, assemble the inner spring insert, the inner spring and one way screw and insert them just slightly into the piston.
Take the tensioner housing and insert the outer spring into it. Now, carefully slide the two together. The reason you want to do it in this order is that if all of the components are in the housing and you just simply insert the pistion over the top, there's a good chance that the threads on the one way screw will not start properly.
Ok, now here comes the hard part. Grab a friend (oh, I forgot to mention you might need one other person as well
) and either a phillips screwdriver or some long thin rod with a blunt end. Preferably a blunt object without a point. Make sure the rear backing plate has not been reinstalled and place the assembly on its end with the piston pointing upwards. Having the backing plate off helps you balance it better.Now, have one person take the blunt tool that you've chosen and apply downward pressure onto the piston. While that person is applying downward pressure, the other person needs to turn the piston clockwise. As it turns, it will wind its way back onto the one way screw. It's easy at first, but when you get close to the end, you'll probably need a pair of needle nose to turn the piston. Oh, and be careful if you chose the screwdriver or other pointy tool as there's a good chance it will slide off and stab the other guy in the hand and the parts will go shooting across the room. With practice and enough lubrication, you can actually do it by yourself using your thumb to depress the piston and the other hand to turn the whole assembly.
Once the piston is down far enough, you can insert the tiny wire you have into the end keeping the piston compressed.
When you buy a new one, there is a long pin that goes through both holes and the piston is completely compressed, but that last millimeter is the hardest. I find it's easy enough to just get it to the recess.
Ok, now after that's done take it out and do it again b/c I forgot to tell you which hole to use for the pin
make sure you insert the pin into the side that's opposite to the black screw on the top of the housing as pictured. Make sure to trim the wire if needed as it cannot go past the outside diameter of the tensioner in order to fit the hole the assembly goes in.Now, go to the engine and unbolt the one hex screw that's next to the tensioner hole. That's your access window.
Insert the tensioner back into it's spot. Tighten both bolts back onto it. If you did everything right, you'll see the pin through the access hole.
After your bolts are tightened, reach in with needle nose pliers and holding the pin very tightly, pull the pin out. You should hear the piston relax and hit the cam chain guide. Make sure you don't drop the pin on the inside of the engine or you'll be in worse shape than when you started.
Ok, so you're done. It's best to change to fresh oil while after you've done this to flush the system out nicely. If not, then double check your level after you're done.
What did this save? Well, a $110 part for one and the embarrassment of having a really nice car that rattles at stoplights. Hope this helps atleast a few.
-Joe
08-02-2010, 03:37 PM
#5
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i read the whole thing. and i dont want to sound like an idiot. But i get a noisy ticking as well and i just did a valve adjustment. so im pretty sure its time for my tct..... if i bout a new tct from honda and put it in is it just those 3 bolts pull out and put in bolt down and pull the pin??? is there a special technique so you dont drop the pin? thats my concern. i really dont want to rebuild the orginal one. and will a new TCT solve my problem? it will put the correct tension on it?
08-02-2010, 03:51 PM
#6
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Don't waste your money on buying a new TCT. You won't be able to tell the difference between the one you have and the new one. Dropping the pin is a possibility, but if you're willing to pull the pin, rebuilding the tensioner you have is no sweat.
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08-02-2010, 03:57 PM
#8
Registered User
Originally Posted by vtec4life57,Aug 2 2010, 04:37 PM
if i bout a new tct from honda and put it in is it just those 3 bolts pull out and put in bolt down and pull the pin???
[QUOTE=vtec4life57]is there a special technique so you dont drop the pin?
08-02-2010, 04:16 PM
#9
Registered User
Nice writeup. But for an alternative to risking stabbing yourself or your helper, see my post in this thread: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...=320897&st=700
