View Poll Results: What brand of shocks do you use?
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STR Prep - Shock / Damper and Springs Discussion
#61
I have my AP2 at 13.25", maybe 13.1 in the front, it works great. I might lower it a little under another 1/4" or so before next season. It's a good compromise for me. When I had it at 12.75" I was having problems with rubbing - I have lower rate springs and sway bars than some on here. Also my rear shocks were very close to bottoming out.
That extra 0.25-0.5 inch will not cause a large change in center of gravity. There might be some merit to the AP1 suspension geometry argument but I don't know since I have an AP2.
That extra 0.25-0.5 inch will not cause a large change in center of gravity. There might be some merit to the AP1 suspension geometry argument but I don't know since I have an AP2.
#62
Thread Starter
Question: My car is currently sitting at 13.5" ride height from hub center to unrolled metal fender edge on all four corners. It looks like most you guys are landing somewhere between 12-13 with a quarter-inch lower bias in the front. Is 13.5" too high? Should I go ahead and lower the rear 1/2" and the front 3/4"? What is the stock ride height when measured this way?
My main concern when I raised it last time was that my newly installed exhaust was scraping my driveway when pulling in. The car was relatively slammed before, so I tried to raise it to the 12-13" range, but apparantly overshot. I don't want to lower to the point that I scrape again.
My main concern when I raised it last time was that my newly installed exhaust was scraping my driveway when pulling in. The car was relatively slammed before, so I tried to raise it to the 12-13" range, but apparantly overshot. I don't want to lower to the point that I scrape again.
As for front vs rear ride height, that controls rake which can have an affect on front to rear balance (weight transfer under acceleration and braking). This is something that you should try in a few different configurations to see how you like it. 1/4" to 1/2" difference would be good for noticing a difference.
Front > Rear
Front < Rear
Front = Rear
This is where knowing the stock rake would be a good reference.
#63
Stock average ride height was 14-1/8" on my car. The individual corner measurements fluctuated within ~3/16" of that number. There was no rake to my stock ride height. Depending on bushing preload, corner weights, etc., everyone's stock measurements will vary slightly.
#65
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I honestly don't know how much you really need with any given shock/spring/swaybar combination. It all varries on grip level and road conditions. But I do know that not enough droop can definitely cause the inside rear to light up.
how stiff have you already made the vehicle? Stiffer you go, the less droop travel you typically need unless you drive on really bumpy tracks and daily drive. If you are running the rear with the stiff OEM swaybar, you likely don't max out your shock droop travel before your swaybar stops the suspension from drooping further
#66
Originally Posted by zo7vette' timestamp='1322679097' post='21198330
How do you measure droop? How much droop should we have? Do we jack the car up from the sides, or from the center of the front and rear? Sway bars connected or disconnected?
Jeff
Jeff
I honestly don't know how much you really need with any given shock/spring/swaybar combination. It all varries on grip level and road conditions. But I do know that not enough droop can definitely cause the inside rear to light up.
how stiff have you already made the vehicle? Stiffer you go, the less droop travel you typically need unless you drive on really bumpy tracks and daily drive. If you are running the rear with the stiff OEM swaybar, you likely don't max out your shock droop travel before your swaybar stops the suspension from drooping further
#67
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by berny2435' timestamp='1322695968' post='21199305
[quote name='zo7vette' timestamp='1322679097' post='21198330']
How do you measure droop? How much droop should we have? Do we jack the car up from the sides, or from the center of the front and rear? Sway bars connected or disconnected?
Jeff
How do you measure droop? How much droop should we have? Do we jack the car up from the sides, or from the center of the front and rear? Sway bars connected or disconnected?
Jeff
I honestly don't know how much you really need with any given shock/spring/swaybar combination. It all varries on grip level and road conditions. But I do know that not enough droop can definitely cause the inside rear to light up.
how stiff have you already made the vehicle? Stiffer you go, the less droop travel you typically need unless you drive on really bumpy tracks and daily drive. If you are running the rear with the stiff OEM swaybar, you likely don't max out your shock droop travel before your swaybar stops the suspension from drooping further
[/quote]
Too much rebound can also cause this under a dynamic situation. I know when I jack my car up you can see the wheels fall after the car is up in the air. This is caused by the low speed rebound bleed of the shock.
The bleed hole seen in this photo and the rebound adjuster control the low speed bleed rate for my 8100s. Your 8300s may not have a bleed hole on the pistons for rebound, so the slow droop of the wheel should be most influenced by your rebound adjuster.
Have you gone to full soft (minus 3 turns from all the way closed or full stiff) on the rear rebound? Do you have the shock dyno plots for your shocks? If you measure from hub center to metal fender edge (while jacked up) for the rear I can do the same on my car for comparison. I have never had inside wheel spin when setup for STR.
#68
I am going a different route then everyone on springs.
Stance GR+2way coilovers
Running 11k-f/13k-r at the moment. I just didn't like the understeer the other way. Been trying to trend towards the .5 lateral force balance calc.
Car had quick turn in with very little steering input and had controllable throttle over steer and great low speed initial turn in.
Eric stemler is really pushing me to try 13k-f/18k-r (about 720lb/1000lb) Would put me at .5 with my settings. Might be a little "too fun" for most, but I am willing to give it a try, since I love to try settings.
Stance GR+2way coilovers
Running 11k-f/13k-r at the moment. I just didn't like the understeer the other way. Been trying to trend towards the .5 lateral force balance calc.
Car had quick turn in with very little steering input and had controllable throttle over steer and great low speed initial turn in.
Eric stemler is really pushing me to try 13k-f/18k-r (about 720lb/1000lb) Would put me at .5 with my settings. Might be a little "too fun" for most, but I am willing to give it a try, since I love to try settings.
#69
#70
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I am going a different route then everyone on springs.
Stance GR+2way coilovers
Running 11k-f/13k-r at the moment. I just didn't like the understeer the other way. Been trying to trend towards the .5 lateral force balance calc.
Car had quick turn in with very little steering input and had controllable throttle over steer and great low speed initial turn in.
Eric stemler is really pushing me to try 13k-f/18k-r (about 720lb/1000lb) Would put me at .5 with my settings. Might be a little "too fun" for most, but I am willing to give it a try, since I love to try settings.
Stance GR+2way coilovers
Running 11k-f/13k-r at the moment. I just didn't like the understeer the other way. Been trying to trend towards the .5 lateral force balance calc.
Car had quick turn in with very little steering input and had controllable throttle over steer and great low speed initial turn in.
Eric stemler is really pushing me to try 13k-f/18k-r (about 720lb/1000lb) Would put me at .5 with my settings. Might be a little "too fun" for most, but I am willing to give it a try, since I love to try settings.
what is this? explain please.