SoloVR6

Actually the PTFE lined ones have worn out quickly for me, like in a few days. I've switched to the "Ultra-Strength" PTFE/kevlar lined rod ends and they've gone the whole year quietly.

User 121020

I've got a set of McMaster P/N: 60745K651 with ~15k miles of mixed use on them and they were silent up until I changed my endlink setup. They're in my "spares" box and I wouldn't hesitate to use 'em again. In other applications, I've used kevlar/PTFE lined rod ends and have also seen excellent wear characteristics.

josh7owens

My small fortune racing one havent been a issue in the two years I've had them on the car and I got them used. Haha

murderedrsx

What size female shank (correct terminology is escaping me) would you use with the McMaster P/N: 60745K651?? I want to use these but I need specifics to get it done. Thanks ahead of time.

User 121020

Yeah...that's kinda an issue with the part number I listed. It's not exactly a plug and play rod end. The threads are 7/16"-20. I used the lower half of the standard Saner rod ends and re-tapped them for 7/16"-20 threads.

murderedrsx

I menn i guess i can measure the stock endlinks and order up so tapped tubeing.

User 121020

OK, let me back up a bit... I went with that rod end when I was adding a 4th hole to my Saner bar. Because of the thickness of the bar ends, you can't just use a nut on the back side of the bar end to hold the rod end in place. Saner used a bolt and custom spacers to get around this issue. My spacers had seen better days and I elected to change the design and no longer use the spacers. Instead, I tapped the 4th hole that I added and I installed 7/16"-20 helical inserts to the 3 original adjustment holes. So, now I can just thread my rod ends into the bar ends. Another option is to mill the bar ends down so you can use a nut/washer combo to hold the rod ends in place. This wasn't an option for me, hence the alternate route. Pics of the process -

Just before grinding the bar end smooth -


4th hole added and tapped, 3 other not yet tapped -


Tapping original Saner female rod end for the larger 7/16"-20 threads of the upper rod end -


Comparison of old design to new setup, new has much more clearance to dampers -

User 121020

A better solution may be to tap the Saner bar holes for 3/8"-24 helical inserts. If I remember correctly, the original Saner through holes should be just the right size for the helical insert tap. It would be best to get your hands on a set of calipers to measure the hole diameter and make sure about that. Then you could use the following parts to make new endlinks from rod ends similar to the one I mentioned, just one size smaller.

Helical insert kit: P/N 91732A932

Upper rod end: P/N 60745K641

Lower rod end: P/N 60745K841

The issue with the female version of the one I originally linked is that the stud won't fit through the hole in the lower control arm. The 3/8"-24 will be a little loose in the lower control arm mounting hole, so use tight fitting washers and decent nuts so you can generate enough clamping force to hold it in place.

murderedrsx

I see. Humm. Im gonna have to get my car on the lift and take some measurements. I believe my eibach bar is a bit thinner at the end than the saner bar. Ill have to measure though and figure out a solution.

murderedrsx

Another question.....does adding the shorter hole on the bar up the bars spring rate or just increase in spring rate? Im guessing by information about holes on other bars it will literally up the spring rate. Id consider drilling/tapping my eibach bar if so. It was cheap so its worth a shot.