timg

I wanted to post this because I haven't seen it anywhere else. This is a fairly simple process with awesome results.

I used a PLX Devices SM-AFR with DM-6 combo. The gauge and wideband controller are under $200. I used these because the KPro III can directly read and understand their digital input and there's no need for conversion. If you have an AEM or Innovate WBO2, you will need to convert the digital signal into a form the KPro can understand.

KPro Help info on the digital input
http://www.hondata.c...ital_inputs.htm
And on serial formats
http://www.hondata.c...ial_formats.htm


Buy the following parts:

1. The 4 pin header Hondata recommended. Shipping is high, you may want to find another source. http://www.allelectr...DER-0.10/1.html
2. 3.5 mm stereo plug. http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=092-157
3. 3.5 mm splitter/Y. The PLX comes with one, but this one had a bit more wire which makes locating the SM-AFR easier. http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=249-146

Digital Input Cable Assembly Steps:

1. Remove two of the wires from the 4 pin header. Basically, you'll have a wire, blank, wire, blank. To remove, take something pointy like a multimeter probe and push down on the metal tab, then pull the wire.
2. Run heat shrink tubing over the wires then put the screw-on cap for the 3.5 mm stereo connector over the wires/heat shrink.
3. Solder the wires to the plug. I made the ground wire the black wire and the signal wire the yellow wire. Use a multimeter to verify you're soldering to the correct part of the 3.5 mm plug.
4. Tighten the cap over the end of the 3.5 mm stereo connector
5. Use a heat gun to shrink the heat shrink. (note, the clear plastic inside the 3.5 mm connector is NOT heat shrink)
6. Plug the cable into the digital header inside your KPro, run the wire outside the case, and then plug it into the Y going into the output from your SM-AFR.

[attachment=20434:serial_cable.png] [attachment=20436:IMG_0284.jpg] [attachment=20435:IMG_0285.jpg]

Setup Digital Input:

1. Open KManager and your calibration
2. In Parameters, click on Digital input
3. Use the drop down to choose PLX
4. In Channels, click on channel 0
5. In channel details, choose Wideband Air/Fuel
6. In channel details, name it WBO2.

[attachment=20437:Screen Shot 2012-05-15 at 8.06.29 AM.png]

Setup Display:

1. On the display, right click on Air/Fuel Ratio.
2. Choose sensors, then DI0 WBO2.
3. Right click on that cell again and choose properties.
4. Make the Caption WBO2
5. If you want to edit anything else regarding the way it's displayed (color, warnings, etc.), now is the time.

Setup Graph:

1. Right click and choose Define Templates.
2. On Graph 2 (or wherever you have a free space), choose DI0 WBO2 and give it a color.

[attachment=20439:Screen Shot 2012-05-15 at 8.16.00 AM.png]


Configure Sensor:

1. Go to Options > Sensors
2. Choose DI0 , DI0 WBO2.
3. Make the Display Min 10 and Display Max 20.
4. Note, the previous step defines how the WBO2 output is graphed. Without it, you won't see the wideband output correctly on the graph.
5. If you want to rename it to just WBO2 rather than DI0 WBO2, this would be the place to do it.

[attachment=20438:Screen Shot 2012-05-15 at 8.19.20 AM.png]


Done.

I hope you found this useful. Happy tuning.

Tim

P.S. If you're wiring the wideband and looking for an easy switched power source, another thread on here pointed me toward the third spade connector in the under dash fuse box for switched power. The hood release makes a nice ground. My SM-AFR is attached directly next to the KPro and above the hood release using velcro. When you're done, the wiring will be ridiculously clean and compact without cutting any factory wiring.

b.r.i.a.n.

nice write up. the only downside to aftermarket widebands with the kpro is that they're only used for datalogging purposes only. they cannot be used for closed loop o2 control.

macr88

I added it to the library

Forcedbird

Nice work!!

I'm in the process of doing this very soon. I too have the PLX SM-AFR but I have the KPro II. Haven't read much on it yet but I think I have to wire mine to the ELD input?

Is it worth it for me to upgrade to KPro III?

timg

Unfortunately, this only works on the KPro III. The earlier KPros don't have the dedicated digital input. The way you would wire yours is quite a bit different and would mean wiring the SM-AFR's analog output to the ELD input. If they can upgrade your current KPro for not too much $$, I would go for it.

Tim

Forcedbird

Tim,

Are you using the PLX's narrowband analog output from the sensor module to stimulate the KPro? (So that you only need to run one O2 sensor instead of two)


If yes, where did splice into in the wiring harness or which pin?

Thanks,
-Kashain

timg

I am not. I thought it would be easier and cleaner not to splice any wiring. Besides, if the PLX sensor goes bad, the stock sensor will still be there doing closed loop.

Tim

Forcedbird

Good idea, I didn't even think about that (PLX sensor going bad).

Since my set up has a test pipe, where is the best place to to mount the PLX O2 sensor and the best place for the stock narrowband O2 sensor (which one goes upstream and which one goes downstream) ?

I have about 65,000 miles on the stock O2 sensor, is it advised to replace it with a new one or just reuse the old one?

Thanks

timg

I would use the old one until it went bad.

Mine are mounted right at the end of the down pipe and in the car/test pipe.

Tim

R-Poizon

Hi. one question: what are the Anti-theft security enhancements?? is it compactible with oem imobilizer or not?? I know that the k-pro 1 is not. so is aem ems.

What I have to do to install this?? all the other procedures like changing sensors and other things or is it just plug and play?

tanks