I know this isnt the FI forum, But id rather post it here anyway.Alright as most of you know I have been talking about boosting the S for awhile now. I came back to NM to pick up all the stuff I have collected for the past year. I am wanting to get working on this soon. Especailly after seeing all the other boosted S2ks in the valley. I plan on doing this on a stock engine. The biggest hold up here is going to be money. This is something I want to get done soon but dont be suprised if it doesnt come out to early spring. Here is the parts list-

Garrett t04b turbo
Mishimoto Black IC(dont get black, the paint comes off very easy)
Tial 38mm WG . 4 bar spring
Greddy Type RS BOV
deatschwerks 800cc injectors
CXracing pipingno longer being used, I bought the piping for a IP kit
more than enough tbolt clamps and silicone couplers
Greddy boost gaugeinstalled
Innovative Wideband gauge + uego controllerInstalled
Oil line feed(installed) and return kit
Greddy Emanage Ultimate with harness
Rev-hard manifold
SOS Gauge podsinstalled
Wahlbro 255 fuel pumpinstalled
Hondata map sensorthanks brandon

Still need
Downpipe
Clutch
possible Oil Filter relocation kit(any recommendations?)

Horespower goals 350-400 tq goals 225-250 to start out with.

 

I facking hate you man!

Good job on getting the ball rolling! If you need any help then don't be afraid to ask (nohomo)!

 

What manifold do you plan to use? You will need a divided T3 manifold (the only one I know of available for sale is the AFI), or you'll probably want to switch that turbo's turbine housing to an open T3 type.

 

Good eye ramocheese!
I am actually talking with a local shop who want to use my car to prototype a manifold.

 

Shop?

 

 

i'll put my .02 in since i was called out in the title. and i speak from experience.

when doing a custom kit
goal 1 is to get it put together on the car and running
goal 2 fix the problems that come up.
goal 3 is fixing the problems that arise after a couple weeks of driving.

the first three goals can be done on low budget. THEN proceed to the next goal..
goal 4 is then to set a power goal.


suggestions and questions are as follows...

lots of things will depend on your manifold. are you looking for a log or some type of tubular? Keep in mind your wastegate (38mm) when getting a manifold, that is if you don't plan to get another (44mm)

with a tubular, you will [probably] have to relocate the battery/fuse box in some way

you will need more IC piping, bends

keep in mind you will have to have your downpipe and maybe ic pipes welded together. That takes time to figure out, and then work out the rattles and leaks (see goal 2 and 3)

suggestions for AFTER you get it running and are working on goal 4

map sensor, you probably wont make 350whp on the stock map with a log manifold.

boost controller, or larger spring, .4 bar = approx 6psi, you wont make 350whp on 6psi.

save more money, you will spend it nickle and dimes at a time

 

I was hoping you would chime in! I will probably be picking your brain at a couple of westside meets.You brought up a couple very valid points.I was figuring i would need more piping which wont be a problem.I have seen in person 388whp put down on a dynojet at 10.5 psi with an IP manifold on a stock map sensor tuned with a 1052u.
The wastegate and most of the other parts are coming off of a 97 prelude that I was building. I took it all off and sold the Lude when i found the S. When I was doing the build on the lude I knew that the engine couldnt hold very much so I ordered a .4bar spring with the tial wastegate. I was wondering do I need a bigger spring or can I just install a Manual boost controller?
I plan on getting the odyssey battery and either rotating the fuse box or relocating it into the fender like IrishFlames.
As far as the manifold goes it will be tubular. Probably similar in design to AFI's. I am still talking to the fabricator about what needs to be done.
Anyway, thanks for the input!

 

speaking as an electrical engineer i will say this...
dont expect your map sensor to read 10.5psi.
the honda map sensor vary within a tolerance (that i dont know) but less than 11psi.
However, if you want any form of overboost protection, your map has to read higher than the boost you want to run, so that the map can tell the ems you over boosted.

as far as wastegate springs vs boost controller goes, get the bigger spring.
are you ever going to 'just' run 6psi? probably not.
get the bigger spring now, 9psi, i think tial makes, then later you can get a boost controller.

car running first is goal 1.

another reason i dont give out my hp number is because they dont matter. dyno 1 reads x hp, dyno 2 reads y hp, so what.

calibrations of the dyno, day of air temperature, humidity, baro pressure all effect dyno readings.

i could go to churches dyno in cali and put down 800, but does that mean anything if ums' dyno says i'm at 700?
those are just numbers for example, not my actual numbers, but they are above 300 .

 

First off I was reading in another post of yours about a electric cutouts.You stated that you closed it when you had a passenger with you. I want to know who these passengers are and why they were so fortunate to get a ride
Wastegate springs are only $20 anyway so that shouldnt be a problem to upgrade, and I was planning on buying a manual boost controller too.
Anyway Im off to go indulge in my love afair with Marie Calendars and her amazing pie!