Jbu88 Build Thread - Quest for sub 1'20" at Mallala
01-06-2014, 02:25 AM
#11
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Pics from 8-3-13
Yes I am moving in these pics, the photographer just has the shutter speed too high!
One of the organisers checking out the over heating coolant
Clearly stiffer springs are needed on track!
Yes I am moving in these pics, the photographer just has the shutter speed too high!
One of the organisers checking out the over heating coolant
Clearly stiffer springs are needed on track!
01-06-2014, 08:22 PM
#12
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The oil filter you need is a Toyota one. Im not sure of the code off the top of my head. Other alternative is buy the proper male to female thread to suit the honda filter and the greddy/trust sandwich plate. Good to see you getting some track time in.
01-21-2014, 03:35 AM
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We must have a different grex sandwich plate! Honda thread on mine. For the time being I've had to use a ryco filter which matches the shitty little honda one. It only has 6 holes compared to the hondas 8. I'm a little concerned about it but oil pressure still seems fine and I don't really have any other choice until I swap out the sandwich plate to a different design. Good news is apart from an alignment I'm pretty much ready to hit the track this Friday.
Small Honda filter I took off the sandwich plate
Ryco replacement I've had to use in the mean time
Bit scared of its flow capacity.
Roll bar installed and looking awesome in repsol orange
Resevoirs mounted in the boot and the holes all sealed up
And the fronts
I've decided they will go here for now. It may get hot there but at least it is in air flow. Next to the radiator also gets really hot. Only other place I'm thinking is vertically tucked up out the way on the suspension mounts
Small Honda filter I took off the sandwich plate
Ryco replacement I've had to use in the mean time
Bit scared of its flow capacity.
Roll bar installed and looking awesome in repsol orange
Resevoirs mounted in the boot and the holes all sealed up
And the fronts
I've decided they will go here for now. It may get hot there but at least it is in air flow. Next to the radiator also gets really hot. Only other place I'm thinking is vertically tucked up out the way on the suspension mounts
01-21-2014, 07:22 PM
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Looking nice. Keep it up! 
Btw, where did you mount the dual oil catch can? I wonder if there is enough room next to the battery on a RHD s2k.
Mind sharing more photos of your catch can setup?
Btw, where did you mount the dual oil catch can? I wonder if there is enough room next to the battery on a RHD s2k.
Mind sharing more photos of your catch can setup?
04-22-2014, 01:07 AM
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Awesome write-up, good to see an S being used for what it was born for. Good luck with the sub 1:20. I only know one fella who cracked it in an N/A 4cyl, and that was a well sorted ek with a B18c7 on semis. I reckon a 4.44 final drive will get you closer.
05-05-2015, 03:58 AM
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Hi guys, it's been a long time without drinks (money and lack of annual leave) but development hasn't completely stopped and I've been to the track a few times over the last six months. (If anyone cares I've been saving to buy my first house and also spent 6 weeks o/s in Jan/Feb).
Track Day #4 Nov 2014
Two mates with s2000s were going to the track and my Dad had just bought a track spec XY GT and wanted to give it a shakedown.
I was under prepared having only stock wheels with 10+ y.o. rubber on them but decided to go purely for fun. I also wanted to see how the new suspension felt with the least grip it will probably ever have to deal with.
It was a really fun day even though my times were off around 2-3sec on average. Two sessions were very wet and I've never had more fun in the Honda, sliding the car slowly and controllably at 130km/h was nothing like I'd ever felt before, it sucks that I didn't have the GoPro with me but I'm sure there'll be another wet day in the future.
Here's a short vid of Andrew just after the rain came down (small aquaplane at around 140km/hr @1:35)
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkctWE4Ocqk&hd=1[/media]
Unfortunately the day ended prematurely for all 3 S2000s, Andrew cut a brake line,
Danh had starting and then intercooler hose issues and I blew the left rear shock in session 4.
On the way home I also found out I'd lost 6th gear. The 2+ hour drive home wasn't that fun in 5th.
After some research it seems a few miss shifts from 2nd to 3rd can burr up 5th and not allow you to select 6th. Billmans technique of forcing the gear into 6th and then rowing back and forth from 5-6th a hundred times didn't work as I couldn't get it into 6th at all. Amazingly after 300km and giving up trying to select 6th it eventually slid into 6th quite easily. I'm guessing a few more changes from 4-5 de-burred it enough.
The shocks have a small rubber bung on them which has only failed recently on a car in WA and mine. They have ran many shocks like this for years with no issues (including in the GRAND-AM Sports Car Challenge). It is possibly the high heat in Aus that contributed to the failure which hasn't been seen anywhere else. AST were quick to address the problem with a change to the bung. I can't remember the bungs function but it may have been for sampling the fluid or during manufacturing or testing.
Track Day #4 Nov 2014
Two mates with s2000s were going to the track and my Dad had just bought a track spec XY GT and wanted to give it a shakedown.
I was under prepared having only stock wheels with 10+ y.o. rubber on them but decided to go purely for fun. I also wanted to see how the new suspension felt with the least grip it will probably ever have to deal with.
It was a really fun day even though my times were off around 2-3sec on average. Two sessions were very wet and I've never had more fun in the Honda, sliding the car slowly and controllably at 130km/h was nothing like I'd ever felt before, it sucks that I didn't have the GoPro with me but I'm sure there'll be another wet day in the future.
Here's a short vid of Andrew just after the rain came down (small aquaplane at around 140km/hr @1:35)
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkctWE4Ocqk&hd=1[/media]
Unfortunately the day ended prematurely for all 3 S2000s, Andrew cut a brake line,
Danh had starting and then intercooler hose issues and I blew the left rear shock in session 4.On the way home I also found out I'd lost 6th gear. The 2+ hour drive home wasn't that fun in 5th.
After some research it seems a few miss shifts from 2nd to 3rd can burr up 5th and not allow you to select 6th. Billmans technique of forcing the gear into 6th and then rowing back and forth from 5-6th a hundred times didn't work as I couldn't get it into 6th at all. Amazingly after 300km and giving up trying to select 6th it eventually slid into 6th quite easily. I'm guessing a few more changes from 4-5 de-burred it enough.
The shocks have a small rubber bung on them which has only failed recently on a car in WA and mine. They have ran many shocks like this for years with no issues (including in the GRAND-AM Sports Car Challenge). It is possibly the high heat in Aus that contributed to the failure which hasn't been seen anywhere else. AST were quick to address the problem with a change to the bung. I can't remember the bungs function but it may have been for sampling the fluid or during manufacturing or testing.
05-05-2015, 05:26 AM
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Track day #5 Apr 2015
This was my first track day non-stag with my 17x10 CE28s, I ended up keeping the stock ARBs for now as I specced stiffer front springs with the shocks. The car is a little prone of oversteer but I like the front end pointy, even if it may not be the fastest. I may also add an adjustable FARB later.
With the AST 5200s working well, the car is a dream to drive up to and beyond the limit, but I only have stock dampers to compare to. The rear end snappiness is basically gone and I'm not even running an anti-bumpsteer kit.
Through T1 which is the trickiest corner on the track due to a small bump at the apex, I am consistently 10km/hr faster and attacking it hard every time, without fear. Where as with the stock dampers you really had to flow through there with a little throttle input (do not lift or carry brakes to the apex) otherwise it would result in a large snap oversteer moment. With the ASTs I can brake all the way to the apex then get straight back on the gas.
Using the Direzza ZII 255s that came with the wheels from Aozora I managed to get my PB down to a 1'23.9 It's a good improvement but still a long way from my 1'20 goal. Unfortunately Mallala is not much of a cornering track with lap-time influenced most by power on the straights and good brakes.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SxWVUHvTcM&hd=1[/media]
I found the ZIIs very predictable and love there noise feedback when approaching the limit, as you can see in my mistakes and saves video. (Theres also a Gran Turismo type ending to the video with the traffic mostly being 90s Japanese sports cars, an R33 spins in front of me and a Silvia comes back onto the racing line while going slowly )
The ZIIs don't feel as grippy when hot as I remember the Kumho KU36s but that may also be that they're old Vs new ku36s.
I'm also not quite nailing my deeper braking points like I was with 225s at front, as I'm not quite consistent enough with the added grip, that will come though
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKSsK5mUsxQ&hd=1[/media]
I also upgraded my brakes, I've never felt the carbotech ax6 pads fade and I've never boiled the ATE superblue but I figured with 255s up front and possibly wider semi's sooner rather than later I might as well put some preventative measures in place. I'll only upgrade to BBK when I get to the limits of the stock calipers.
First I changed to the common Carbotech XP10/8 F/R pads, I replaced the front rotors with new blanks and also added the WASP composites AP1 ducting kit.
I've never liked how all the DIY brake ducts I've seen blow the air onto the inside of the brake rotor and I would think the uneven cooling is only going to increase the chances of cracking rotors so when I saw how the WASP kit replaces the stock heat/rock shield and blows air to the rotor vanes I was sold.
Saying that it did need quite a lot of manipulating to fit 100%. I had to grind some parts and lengthen some of the mounting holes. I also ground out where the hose attachment joins the shield to smooth airflow but it probably wasn't needed. It just bugged me because it wasn't smooth. All up I spent 20-30mins on each side. I'm not complaining as most parts will need a little modifying to fit 100% and the quality of the CF was great. They also didn't send me the gold heat tape they advertise as including.
Carbon fibre heat shields are a nice but probably unnecessary touch when the ball joints will be wrapped with cool tape anyway.
And no that's not me wearing the Oakley thongs!!
Faux brake ducts cut out
The CF ducts are a very nicely made kit
Test fitting the ducts, allowing plenty of overlap to glue them in place
I angled the ducts as far to the outside of the car as possible as they were fouling on the AEM intake and the air pump.
I cut the air pump bracket to help clearance. I'll remove it as soon as I make the jump to an ECU anyway.
As the reflective tape didn't come with the WASP kit and the DEI cool tape I ordered had not arrived yet, I fashioned a really quick DIY heat tape using kitchen Al-foil folded over many many times. I didn't have any stainless steel cable ties handy that night and I had to bed in the new pads so I thought 'stuff it' I'll try nylon cable ties.
To my disbelief they showed no signs of melting even with the brake ducts blocked. The bed in procedure for carbotechs is 10 stops in a row from over 100km/h to 5, almost as hard as you can. Let them cool down for 5 mins and then repeat the process braking as hard as you can another 10 times. The brakes get crazy hot so I figured I'd leave them be for the track. So far after two track days (12x15min sessions) they're still going strong.
I also bought a race suit as I might be co-driving in the future and while it hasn't improved my times it certainly is more comfortable in the car than jeans.
This was my first track day non-stag with my 17x10 CE28s, I ended up keeping the stock ARBs for now as I specced stiffer front springs with the shocks. The car is a little prone of oversteer but I like the front end pointy, even if it may not be the fastest. I may also add an adjustable FARB later.
With the AST 5200s working well, the car is a dream to drive up to and beyond the limit, but I only have stock dampers to compare to. The rear end snappiness is basically gone and I'm not even running an anti-bumpsteer kit.
Through T1 which is the trickiest corner on the track due to a small bump at the apex, I am consistently 10km/hr faster and attacking it hard every time, without fear. Where as with the stock dampers you really had to flow through there with a little throttle input (do not lift or carry brakes to the apex) otherwise it would result in a large snap oversteer moment. With the ASTs I can brake all the way to the apex then get straight back on the gas.
Using the Direzza ZII 255s that came with the wheels from Aozora I managed to get my PB down to a 1'23.9 It's a good improvement but still a long way from my 1'20 goal. Unfortunately Mallala is not much of a cornering track with lap-time influenced most by power on the straights and good brakes.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SxWVUHvTcM&hd=1[/media]
I found the ZIIs very predictable and love there noise feedback when approaching the limit, as you can see in my mistakes and saves video. (Theres also a Gran Turismo type ending to the video with the traffic mostly being 90s Japanese sports cars, an R33 spins in front of me and a Silvia comes back onto the racing line while going slowly
)The ZIIs don't feel as grippy when hot as I remember the Kumho KU36s but that may also be that they're old Vs new ku36s.
I'm also not quite nailing my deeper braking points like I was with 225s at front, as I'm not quite consistent enough with the added grip, that will come though
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKSsK5mUsxQ&hd=1[/media]
I also upgraded my brakes, I've never felt the carbotech ax6 pads fade and I've never boiled the ATE superblue but I figured with 255s up front and possibly wider semi's sooner rather than later I might as well put some preventative measures in place. I'll only upgrade to BBK when I get to the limits of the stock calipers.
First I changed to the common Carbotech XP10/8 F/R pads, I replaced the front rotors with new blanks and also added the WASP composites AP1 ducting kit.
I've never liked how all the DIY brake ducts I've seen blow the air onto the inside of the brake rotor and I would think the uneven cooling is only going to increase the chances of cracking rotors so when I saw how the WASP kit replaces the stock heat/rock shield and blows air to the rotor vanes I was sold.
Saying that it did need quite a lot of manipulating to fit 100%. I had to grind some parts and lengthen some of the mounting holes. I also ground out where the hose attachment joins the shield to smooth airflow but it probably wasn't needed. It just bugged me because it wasn't smooth. All up I spent 20-30mins on each side. I'm not complaining as most parts will need a little modifying to fit 100% and the quality of the CF was great. They also didn't send me the gold heat tape they advertise as including.
Carbon fibre heat shields are a nice but probably unnecessary touch when the ball joints will be wrapped with cool tape anyway.
And no that's not me wearing the Oakley thongs!!
Faux brake ducts cut out
The CF ducts are a very nicely made kit
Test fitting the ducts, allowing plenty of overlap to glue them in place
I angled the ducts as far to the outside of the car as possible as they were fouling on the AEM intake and the air pump.
I cut the air pump bracket to help clearance. I'll remove it as soon as I make the jump to an ECU anyway.
As the reflective tape didn't come with the WASP kit and the DEI cool tape I ordered had not arrived yet, I fashioned a really quick DIY heat tape using kitchen Al-foil folded over many many times. I didn't have any stainless steel cable ties handy that night and I had to bed in the new pads so I thought 'stuff it' I'll try nylon cable ties.
To my disbelief they showed no signs of melting even with the brake ducts blocked. The bed in procedure for carbotechs is 10 stops in a row from over 100km/h to 5, almost as hard as you can. Let them cool down for 5 mins and then repeat the process braking as hard as you can another 10 times. The brakes get crazy hot so I figured I'd leave them be for the track. So far after two track days (12x15min sessions) they're still going strong.
I also bought a race suit as I might be co-driving in the future and while it hasn't improved my times it certainly is more comfortable in the car than jeans.
05-18-2015, 04:38 AM
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Track day #6 May 2015
Small update, got down to a 1'23.77 last time out.
It's not a huge gain but a PB is a PB and I got a lot more consistent with the new set-up, running quite a few low 24s.
I also had my first off proper off track experience. Coming up to T3 I broke at the same point but just didn't slow at all. The brakes felt a bit spongy afterwards but still worked ok, so I think I may have made a rookie mistake and had my foot dragging on the throttle pedal! I don't know what else would've caused it. I am still getting used to the SRP throttle pedal extension I installed to make heal and toe a little easier.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsTKQQS4hIM&hd=1[/media]
There's some sloppy driving mid session, for some reason I wasn't concentrating enough, ignore that.
The latest round of mods mostly focus on comfort and safety.
I upgraded my old motorbike helmet I'd been using, I was planning on buying a locally made Velo helmet but it didn't fit my head shape. After trying a few more around that price range none fit as well as the cheap helmet I'd been using. I tried on a Bell and it was a good improvement over the others but still not perfect. Then I tried on an Arai GP6-S, I had no idea about helmet brands/prices and I was very happy with the fit and then the assistant told me the price!! Crap!! It's 2-3x more expensive than most others I'd tried on, but in the end I think for safety, especially my head, it is worth the $$.
I also bought some Alpine star gloves, and they made a surprisingly big difference. I always thought they were a bit of a gimmick for track days and didn't want to wear them initially, thinking I'd look like a poser when I don't have the skills to back it up. In the end the sweat was getting too much so I decided to try them. The difference is night and day. For quick transitions on the wheel it feels much more controllable, you're not squeezing the wheel so hard for grip.(Theres two saves in the above video at T3 on Laps 1 and 2 that show my point).
During braking I'm sliding forward so I've bought a Velo 6point harness to counter that. It will also allow me to finally use my HANS support which is another plus for safety. I will keep the OEM 3 point in the car for street use as using a harness without a head and neck support is seriously dangerous. I can't belive so many builds/people use a harness on the street thinking its safer (or cool).
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g40YatgE_CE&hd=1[/media]
Lastly I bought a modifry shift beeper to help time shifts and that's probably it for mods for a while. Time to focus on driver improvement and data analysis.
Small update, got down to a 1'23.77 last time out.
It's not a huge gain but a PB is a PB and I got a lot more consistent with the new set-up, running quite a few low 24s.
I also had my first off proper off track experience. Coming up to T3 I broke at the same point but just didn't slow at all. The brakes felt a bit spongy afterwards but still worked ok, so I think I may have made a rookie mistake and had my foot dragging on the throttle pedal! I don't know what else would've caused it. I am still getting used to the SRP throttle pedal extension I installed to make heal and toe a little easier.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsTKQQS4hIM&hd=1[/media]
There's some sloppy driving mid session, for some reason I wasn't concentrating enough, ignore that.
The latest round of mods mostly focus on comfort and safety.
I upgraded my old motorbike helmet I'd been using, I was planning on buying a locally made Velo helmet but it didn't fit my head shape. After trying a few more around that price range none fit as well as the cheap helmet I'd been using. I tried on a Bell and it was a good improvement over the others but still not perfect. Then I tried on an Arai GP6-S, I had no idea about helmet brands/prices and I was very happy with the fit and then the assistant told me the price!! Crap!! It's 2-3x more expensive than most others I'd tried on, but in the end I think for safety, especially my head, it is worth the $$.
I also bought some Alpine star gloves, and they made a surprisingly big difference. I always thought they were a bit of a gimmick for track days and didn't want to wear them initially, thinking I'd look like a poser when I don't have the skills to back it up. In the end the sweat was getting too much so I decided to try them. The difference is night and day. For quick transitions on the wheel it feels much more controllable, you're not squeezing the wheel so hard for grip.(Theres two saves in the above video at T3 on Laps 1 and 2 that show my point).
During braking I'm sliding forward so I've bought a Velo 6point harness to counter that. It will also allow me to finally use my HANS support which is another plus for safety. I will keep the OEM 3 point in the car for street use as using a harness without a head and neck support is seriously dangerous. I can't belive so many builds/people use a harness on the street thinking its safer (or cool).
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g40YatgE_CE&hd=1[/media]
Lastly I bought a modifry shift beeper to help time shifts and that's probably it for mods for a while. Time to focus on driver improvement and data analysis.