I wouldn't call the flow rates close on the overall flow... You're talking about 50hp difference. I do believe the exhaust wheel is bigger, but the flow of the compressor is ultimately going to make the power and your A/R is a decent size. If you have a flat 8 PSI, you'll looking at near 400whp on E85.

This was mine at 8 PSI flat, with what I call 'track timing'. It made more with some timing, but I favor boost over timing, especially when the turbo is still efficient. This torque curve feels like an NA car.



I ran into the same issue with the fuel pressure. I haven't thought much about it, but if I can just get a 0-5v input into my ECU, that's all I need. I did note that my fuel pressure will not drop below base. I need to test if the return line is the problem, or the AEM FPR is the issue. I just need to come off the FPR into a bucket with vacuum applied and that will tell me. It's apparently always been like that as my fuel trims are small... So I tuned it like that. I did verify that it goes up 1:1 with boost, so that was my biggest concern.

 

If you're still stuck on how to run the coolant lines to the turbo, you can run it from the radiator and then back into the block through the freeze plug on the side. I'm not sure if your running a aftermarket rad tho. I can post some pics of how I did mine.

 

Ya that's what I thought, the exhaust wheel is a bit bigger on your BW. We'll see how the G25 turbine housing does, I'd imagine it'll choke up top a bit compared to yours. Ya for sure I've learned over the years better to be a little less "efficient" tuned to the ragged edge than trying to squeeze every last hp and blowing an engine. The car with >300whp I'd imagine will be a blast on track and should keep me on my toes for a while. I'm having Jeff Evans do my tune, he seems to be a sharp guy with a good reputation.

Ya an in car readout is always nice so you can see exactly what's going on. I'm going with the Walbro 450, def overkill flow wise, but I've heard it's very reliable and obviously e85 compatible for down the road. I think the radium fpr should be able to handle the flow.

 

Thanks man. I think I got it figured out. I was really just debating between using the coolant TB line vs the oem oil cooler lines. I'm decided on the oem oil cooler lines, and just have the oem fitting/water pipe w/ a -6an fitting welded on. This gets rid of a rubber->braided/hardline transition piece. I measured the port coming out of the head and it's pretty small at 1/4" or less (roughly -4 an). While I think it would be *ok* (apparently the water lines are really only needed for hot shutdown), I'd prefer it having a little more cooling (the fittings are -6an, roughly 3/8").

 

Been busy working on the car and have a bunch of updates. Got a bunch of maintenance done. Changed the diff fluid (LE1605), installed the tranny fluid, installed the Billman TCT (I'm not sure my TCT was making noise yet, but better to be safe).

Pulled the intake manifold and drilled and tapped it with 3 1/8" npt ports. Vacuum blocks work fine, but it wasn't much more work to pull the intake manifold at this point so why not drill and tap the manifold. This gives plenty of ports for things to have their own dedicated vacuum line. I also got the Radium rail and fpr installed with the ID1050x's. The radium parts are nice. They have some fancy swivel fittings which are very nice. I still need to crimp the new pins for the ID injector harnesses.





Installed the ARP studs. These are the 1.75" length ones. They're actually only a tiny bit longer than oem. I have nordlock washers as well I will use. Thx for the tip Jason.

 

One thing I was finally able to get done is the battery relocation. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out and everything fit nicely. I used a 2 gauge welding cable for the relocation and a nylon braided sleeve to provide a little extra protection for the cable.



Got the wiring all finished in the trunk and everything fits nicely. It was designed with the spare in mind. I can still easily remove it (this is a DC5 type-r spare so it'll clear the bbk). I have a cpl more little things to do, like probably cut the threaded rods down but it's just cosmetic type of stuff. I have a 4 gauge wire that runs to a dist block behind the seats that powers the 2 channel amp and the heated seats.




In the engine compartment I just used a dist block to make the connections. With the battery in the trunk I wanted a charging post so I can easily hookup the battery tender when the car sits and I find it handy to charge my phone at the track in the engine bay.



Got the HKS Hi power single exhaust. Was super easy, took 30mins to install including the unboxing.

 

I'm going to run a mocal thermostatic sandwich plate. Looking at the casting it had some sharp edges that kind of bugged me. Would it have hurt flow as is? Maybe not, but I figured it's worth taking the time to port it out a bit to possibly help the flow. Like I noted previously, the Mishimoto sandwich plate is a nice looking piece. I'm removing it simply so I can just sell the kit as a whole. I will post up a couple shots comparing the mishimoto vs the Mocal. It's interesting because it seems like Mishimoto is everywhere these days. The Mocal is only sold by one small dealer (BAT Inc) in FL. Anyway, here's a couple photos. Looking at the right port, pre ported and post ported. Might be hard to tell in the picture but the ports are much smoother and a nice transition after porting. It looks like a bit drills the hole and the edges aren't blended afterwards. Was it necessary? Probably not, but it certainly can't hurt.





I have a long list of things still to do. One area of concern for me is the turbo coolant lines. The plan is to run them on top of the compressor housing but I noticed this makes them I think the high point in the cooling system. Could this pose a problem of air getting trapped in the system here? A friend suggested using a funnel to raise the point up but I'd love a 2nd opinion. Worst case I can figure out a different solution for the coolant lines but really liked this approach. Please chime in if you have some thoughts.

 

Call BAT and order their HF thermostatic plate.

 

Thanks Jason. Ya I saw your build and was going to run it but the guy at BAT thought it'd be way overkill, so I got the regular one.. Maybe I should have just went that route. I'm thinking I will probably drill a 1/4" hole in the sandwich plate like I did with the Mishimoto cooler to minimize the pressure drop when the thermostat is fully open. It should have a minimal effect on oil cooling through the cooler as well.

What size charge piping did you go for the hot side from turbo to IC? 2.25" or 2.5"?

 

Meh... This is a part that you can't really overkill. They also don't understand that our cars have high volume pumps for their size.

Cold side of turbo? I'd have to go measure as it's been awhile.