need help with chain/sprocket choice
Gearing is one thing on the bike that I don't really understand too much about. I have a 06 R6 that isn't very strong on the bottom/mid range. This problem was even more apparent on the track (cal speedway). I know that for more acceleration you want less teeth in the front and more in the back. So I was thinking -1 front and +1 or +2 in the back. With a DID or RK Chain.
I only ride canyons or track. More than likely the only track I can make it to is California speedway and MAYBE Willow Springs.
So my question is whether I should change the front and rear sprocket and if so what size.
I also don't understand what "520" means as far as a conversion.
Thanks for your help and recommendations.
I only ride canyons or track. More than likely the only track I can make it to is California speedway and MAYBE Willow Springs.
So my question is whether I should change the front and rear sprocket and if so what size.
I also don't understand what "520" means as far as a conversion.
Thanks for your help and recommendations.
If you don't want to change out your chain (stock?), then go -1 in the front and see how you like it.
If you're going to a lighter chain / sprocket setup, many people like to go +3 in the back. I wouldn't do both at the same time--try one and then see if that gets you what you want.
Also remember that changing the front sprocket puts more strain on the chain and sprocket teeth. Also, going to a 520 chain with aluminum rear sprocket will reduce your unsprung weight--for every pound of unsprung weight you remove, it's equivalent to 7 pounds of sprung weight.
On the new 600's, there's no real fear of making your top speed disappear, as most don't see it anyway. You might see 145 top speed at Cal Speedway on the AMA course if you were really good, and sprocket changes will give you a gear-limited top speed instead of a drag-limited top speed anyway.
If you're going to a lighter chain / sprocket setup, many people like to go +3 in the back. I wouldn't do both at the same time--try one and then see if that gets you what you want.
Also remember that changing the front sprocket puts more strain on the chain and sprocket teeth. Also, going to a 520 chain with aluminum rear sprocket will reduce your unsprung weight--for every pound of unsprung weight you remove, it's equivalent to 7 pounds of sprung weight.
On the new 600's, there's no real fear of making your top speed disappear, as most don't see it anyway. You might see 145 top speed at Cal Speedway on the AMA course if you were really good, and sprocket changes will give you a gear-limited top speed instead of a drag-limited top speed anyway.
the 530 is a more heavy chain for a 1liter bike. you will need to change both front and back sprocket to convert over to the new chain. usually people go from a 530 to a 520 chain and accept a greater wear factor but get reduced weight.
the front sprocket is usually a pain to change out, it has a fastener with a billion n-M torque on it. as stated above you always want to prevent the chain from turning a tight circle so adjust the rear sprocket.
DID chains and Sprocket Specialists products are fine enough. the front sprocket is steel and the rear is al. you will notice the DID chain to be a great deal harder than the oem chain. in either case grind off the old rivets first before using a removal tool. there is a additional tool to compress the new rivet into place, you will need this tool.
you might consider a yello box calibration thingy as the long term effects on the odometer can be noticed.
alot of things on the track have little lo end torque. if torque is what you need ride a pickemup truck. depending on the track most riders avoid 1st gear but stay in 2or3 for the duration. few tracks will require 5or6 gear. its not a sin to hit revlimit and its alot smoother on a bike than in the honda s2000.
the front sprocket is usually a pain to change out, it has a fastener with a billion n-M torque on it. as stated above you always want to prevent the chain from turning a tight circle so adjust the rear sprocket.
DID chains and Sprocket Specialists products are fine enough. the front sprocket is steel and the rear is al. you will notice the DID chain to be a great deal harder than the oem chain. in either case grind off the old rivets first before using a removal tool. there is a additional tool to compress the new rivet into place, you will need this tool.
you might consider a yello box calibration thingy as the long term effects on the odometer can be noticed.
alot of things on the track have little lo end torque. if torque is what you need ride a pickemup truck. depending on the track most riders avoid 1st gear but stay in 2or3 for the duration. few tracks will require 5or6 gear. its not a sin to hit revlimit and its alot smoother on a bike than in the honda s2000.
-1/+2 is quite a big change. I think you should just try the +2 in the rear and see if you're happy with it. If you want more go -1. The 06R6 uses a 525 chain, so, again you might not notice a big change going to a 520. My .02.
Originally Posted by rioyellows2k,Jul 7 2007, 06:38 PM
The 06R6 uses a 525 chain
you might plan to use up your oem chain, just change our the rear sprocket to another 525 type.
if cost is dont care, do it right: new steel 520 front sprocket, new +3 al rear sprocket and a new 520 chain. you know you wnat to do this. i would stay with the oem teeth count on the front.
change enough so you can feel the difference.
DID chains and Sprocket Specialists products are fine enough.
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