Thinking of doing this for a DD...
STEP 1:
----------
Find a used 1997 Subaru Impreza Brighton AWD Coupe (Or any GC8 Coupe really) for $1000 - $2000 or less.
Impreza GC8 = 1993 - 2001
http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com...u-impreza-6.htm
1997 Subaru Impreza Brighton AWD
Curb Weight 2,600 lbs.
Height 55.5"
Overall Length 172.2"
Wheelbase 99.2"
Width 67.1"
STEP 2:
----------
Find a salvage 2004-2007 Subaru WRX STI for around $6000 - $10000
Ensure everything works and runs properly.
Transfer the Interior (Dash, Seats, Steering Wheel, ect), Engine &
Drivetrain, Suspension & Undercarriage (Steering Rack, Subframes, ect)
http://eastcoastswappers.com/index.php
http://rallispec.com/index.htm
http://forums.nasioc.com
http://www.scoobymods.com/index.php
www.lachutesubaru.com
www.dmsnorthamerica.com
STEP 3:
----------
Upgrade and Tune 350 HP, 385 TQ
http://cobbtuning.com/categories/?id=2208
COBB Double Adjustable Shifter
COBB Shifter Bushings
COBB Stage 2 Power Package w/ Cat
COBB SF Intake and Air Box Package
COBB Turbo Uppipe
COBB Lightweight Main Pulley
Lightweight Battery
http://www.performancedistributors.com/batteries.htm
STEP 4:
----------
Seibon Replica Hood
http://www.andysautosport.com/subaru/1995_...ib00026716.html
Do-Luck Subaru Impreza [GC8] Body Kit
http://www.speedfactory.co.nz/img/bodykits.../gc8doluck1.jpg
APR GTC-200 Adjustable Wing
http://www.aprperformance.com/index.php?op...id=36&Itemid=44
STEP 5:
----------
Tubular Frame = 30% Min Weight Reduced (If not too expensive)
http://www.cscracing.com/index.html
Moton Clubsport Dampers if above is in reason.
Lexan Windows all around if above is in reason.
Notes:
Result should be around 2100lbs or less, AWD Coupe with 350 hp and 385 tq.
What do you all think about this think? The projected cost is 15-20k if the frame is too expensive to do and 20-27k if it's able to be done.
Mainly, I need a good car for work that has more then 2 seats and room for my gear when it's needed for the field, so the S is a good car otherwise but lacking there. And while I can get a used WRX for 15k, I'd like a coupe instead of a Sedan and I love the way the Do-Luck Kit looks. I'd like your opinions, both good and bad.
----------
Find a used 1997 Subaru Impreza Brighton AWD Coupe (Or any GC8 Coupe really) for $1000 - $2000 or less.
Impreza GC8 = 1993 - 2001
http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com...u-impreza-6.htm
1997 Subaru Impreza Brighton AWD
Curb Weight 2,600 lbs.
Height 55.5"
Overall Length 172.2"
Wheelbase 99.2"
Width 67.1"
STEP 2:
----------
Find a salvage 2004-2007 Subaru WRX STI for around $6000 - $10000
Ensure everything works and runs properly.
Transfer the Interior (Dash, Seats, Steering Wheel, ect), Engine &
Drivetrain, Suspension & Undercarriage (Steering Rack, Subframes, ect)
http://eastcoastswappers.com/index.php
http://rallispec.com/index.htm
http://forums.nasioc.com
http://www.scoobymods.com/index.php
www.lachutesubaru.com
www.dmsnorthamerica.com
STEP 3:
----------
Upgrade and Tune 350 HP, 385 TQ
http://cobbtuning.com/categories/?id=2208
COBB Double Adjustable Shifter
COBB Shifter Bushings
COBB Stage 2 Power Package w/ Cat
COBB SF Intake and Air Box Package
COBB Turbo Uppipe
COBB Lightweight Main Pulley
Lightweight Battery
http://www.performancedistributors.com/batteries.htm
STEP 4:
----------
Seibon Replica Hood
http://www.andysautosport.com/subaru/1995_...ib00026716.html
Do-Luck Subaru Impreza [GC8] Body Kit
http://www.speedfactory.co.nz/img/bodykits.../gc8doluck1.jpg
APR GTC-200 Adjustable Wing
http://www.aprperformance.com/index.php?op...id=36&Itemid=44
STEP 5:
----------
Tubular Frame = 30% Min Weight Reduced (If not too expensive)
http://www.cscracing.com/index.html
Moton Clubsport Dampers if above is in reason.
Lexan Windows all around if above is in reason.
Notes:
Result should be around 2100lbs or less, AWD Coupe with 350 hp and 385 tq.
What do you all think about this think? The projected cost is 15-20k if the frame is too expensive to do and 20-27k if it's able to be done.
Mainly, I need a good car for work that has more then 2 seats and room for my gear when it's needed for the field, so the S is a good car otherwise but lacking there. And while I can get a used WRX for 15k, I'd like a coupe instead of a Sedan and I love the way the Do-Luck Kit looks. I'd like your opinions, both good and bad.
Con's. Lots of work. Lots of cash (but less than new evo) Poor resale value, you'll never get out what you pay in. Delayed gratification. This is a LONG term project.
The end result would be neat though, if not unique.
If you think of it as a hobby, you don't need the money, and you have a couple years worth of patience, go for it.
I had a friend who bought an early 80's Celica convert and a early 80's Supra and he was going to through the Supra engine into the Celica and make a "Suprica"
He got about half done and got tired of it and sold it all off. Make sure you are dedicated before you start.
I had a thread about a project for myself. It would take me at least a year and cost about $15k. I may do it though. Need to expand the garage first.
The end result would be neat though, if not unique.
If you think of it as a hobby, you don't need the money, and you have a couple years worth of patience, go for it.
I had a friend who bought an early 80's Celica convert and a early 80's Supra and he was going to through the Supra engine into the Celica and make a "Suprica"
He got about half done and got tired of it and sold it all off. Make sure you are dedicated before you start.
I had a thread about a project for myself. It would take me at least a year and cost about $15k. I may do it though. Need to expand the garage first.
Yup.. These are not simple straight forward swaps. Nearly every GC8 swap i see for sale on nasioc is not complete, or half-assed, and have all been in the works for years. The ones that are done well want at least $15k for it.
Trending Topics
what i did:
MY2000 2.5rs + 2005 STi motor/tranny = win.
my car probably weighs 29xx lbs now, but it still moves out.
i originally only wanted the Sti motor, but the original 5spd failed on me. as of now i'm still on the 2.5rs rear diff. mated to an automatic forester drivetrain...eventually i'll get the R180 with Sti axles/hubs/brakes etc....
i didn't want the lighter models mainly because it was too old for me...a MY2000 chassis to me is still acceptable
and BTW yes every subaru with EJ-series engines from the factory share all the parts as direct bolt-on's - the only complication is the wiring.
to answer your question i would say go for it - the end result of your project will bring you extreme joy as the car will be stupid fun to drive. a lightweight AWD car that is nimble in the corners and can still make great power AND put all that power to the ground is an awesome combination.
but like aforementioned don't expect to get back what you put into the car...and be patient as you'll most likely run into a lot of unforeseen problems (sometimes waiting for parts and having the wrong parts arrive can make you want to head butt a brick wall) - a project of this magnitude will always have glitches and little accidents here and there.
you forgot www.rs25.com - lots of great information and overall a great community. also you can save some money by using ECUflash rather than getting the accessports (though some prefer having the AP's functions) and just overall avoiding COBB parts - quality but expensive.
the major downside for the GC vs. GD is that, while the GC is lighter it is much less rigid, and coming from modern sports cars esp. the s2000, the GC chassis can feel like it's made of spaghetti under high G corners. you may want to look into fender braces, f/r strut braces, f/r strut bars, but nothing will help as much as a proper roll cage - you get the picture. also, having a thick rear sway bar can make the car very tail happy and take out some of the understeering tendency a F/AWD car tends to have - esp. with the heavier ej257 engine sitting in the front of the car. IMO the GC with the most chassis rigidity you can apply (without breaking the bank, such as going into spot welding the chassis) along with decent suspension work will make for a very competent all-around performer.
i'm planning on keeping my RSTi for a long time - it's so much fun it's unbelievable
not to mention it's unique, and most of all a total sleeper. my old Evo gave me too much unwanted attention, and not even all the fun factor this hybrid car offers, IMHO.
CN: DEW EET
but plan out and research everything and expect to spend more money and TIME on this projected than originally anticipated.
MY2000 2.5rs + 2005 STi motor/tranny = win.
my car probably weighs 29xx lbs now, but it still moves out.
i originally only wanted the Sti motor, but the original 5spd failed on me. as of now i'm still on the 2.5rs rear diff. mated to an automatic forester drivetrain...eventually i'll get the R180 with Sti axles/hubs/brakes etc....
i didn't want the lighter models mainly because it was too old for me...a MY2000 chassis to me is still acceptable

and BTW yes every subaru with EJ-series engines from the factory share all the parts as direct bolt-on's - the only complication is the wiring.
to answer your question i would say go for it - the end result of your project will bring you extreme joy as the car will be stupid fun to drive. a lightweight AWD car that is nimble in the corners and can still make great power AND put all that power to the ground is an awesome combination.
but like aforementioned don't expect to get back what you put into the car...and be patient as you'll most likely run into a lot of unforeseen problems (sometimes waiting for parts and having the wrong parts arrive can make you want to head butt a brick wall) - a project of this magnitude will always have glitches and little accidents here and there.
you forgot www.rs25.com - lots of great information and overall a great community. also you can save some money by using ECUflash rather than getting the accessports (though some prefer having the AP's functions) and just overall avoiding COBB parts - quality but expensive.
the major downside for the GC vs. GD is that, while the GC is lighter it is much less rigid, and coming from modern sports cars esp. the s2000, the GC chassis can feel like it's made of spaghetti under high G corners. you may want to look into fender braces, f/r strut braces, f/r strut bars, but nothing will help as much as a proper roll cage - you get the picture. also, having a thick rear sway bar can make the car very tail happy and take out some of the understeering tendency a F/AWD car tends to have - esp. with the heavier ej257 engine sitting in the front of the car. IMO the GC with the most chassis rigidity you can apply (without breaking the bank, such as going into spot welding the chassis) along with decent suspension work will make for a very competent all-around performer.
i'm planning on keeping my RSTi for a long time - it's so much fun it's unbelievable
not to mention it's unique, and most of all a total sleeper. my old Evo gave me too much unwanted attention, and not even all the fun factor this hybrid car offers, IMHO.CN: DEW EET
but plan out and research everything and expect to spend more money and TIME on this projected than originally anticipated.
Thanks for all the input. I plan on taking it easy with the build and later seeing how much adition weight savings would cost. I have no intention of selling this car for a good while after its done. I would be too happy with my work and effort into it, plus since it's got 4 seats it could be a family car later on, heh. Anyhow, I think it will be on the backburned for a bit but I do plan to do this at a later time. I was just seeing what people thought about this idea.
fusionchickenleg - Thanks for all the information. I figured I end up doing chassis bracing and the like if it wound up being unfeasable later to do a Turbular Frame or something like that. I know those tend to be expensive, but I've always wanted one. If all else fails, I might have to try and get a welding class from the army when I'm stateside again and do my own bracing, lol.
Thanks to everyone for the input. And it would be a hobby so don't expect to see the completed car for a couple years (Especially with deployments).
fusionchickenleg - Thanks for all the information. I figured I end up doing chassis bracing and the like if it wound up being unfeasable later to do a Turbular Frame or something like that. I know those tend to be expensive, but I've always wanted one. If all else fails, I might have to try and get a welding class from the army when I'm stateside again and do my own bracing, lol.
Thanks to everyone for the input. And it would be a hobby so don't expect to see the completed car for a couple years (Especially with deployments).
Originally Posted by fusionchickenleg,Mar 11 2008, 05:17 AM
what i did:
MY2000 2.5rs + 2005 STi motor/tranny = win.
my car probably weighs 29xx lbs now, but it still moves out.
i originally only wanted the Sti motor, but the original 5spd failed on me. as of now i'm still on the 2.5rs rear diff. mated to an automatic forester drivetrain...eventually i'll get the R180 with Sti axles/hubs/brakes etc....
i didn't want the lighter models mainly because it was too old for me...a MY2000 chassis to me is still acceptable
and BTW yes every subaru with EJ-series engines from the factory share all the parts as direct bolt-on's - the only complication is the wiring.
to answer your question i would say go for it - the end result of your project will bring you extreme joy as the car will be stupid fun to drive. a lightweight AWD car that is nimble in the corners and can still make great power AND put all that power to the ground is an awesome combination.
but like aforementioned don't expect to get back what you put into the car...and be patient as you'll most likely run into a lot of unforeseen problems (sometimes waiting for parts and having the wrong parts arrive can make you want to head butt a brick wall) - a project of this magnitude will always have glitches and little accidents here and there.
you forgot www.rs25.com - lots of great information and overall a great community. also you can save some money by using ECUflash rather than getting the accessports (though some prefer having the AP's functions) and just overall avoiding COBB parts - quality but expensive.
the major downside for the GC vs. GD is that, while the GC is lighter it is much less rigid, and coming from modern sports cars esp. the s2000, the GC chassis can feel like it's made of spaghetti under high G corners. you may want to look into fender braces, f/r strut braces, f/r strut bars, but nothing will help as much as a proper roll cage - you get the picture. also, having a thick rear sway bar can make the car very tail happy and take out some of the understeering tendency a F/AWD car tends to have - esp. with the heavier ej257 engine sitting in the front of the car. IMO the GC with the most chassis rigidity you can apply (without breaking the bank, such as going into spot welding the chassis) along with decent suspension work will make for a very competent all-around performer.
i'm planning on keeping my RSTi for a long time - it's so much fun it's unbelievable
not to mention it's unique, and most of all a total sleeper. my old Evo gave me too much unwanted attention, and not even all the fun factor this hybrid car offers, IMHO.
CN: DEW EET
but plan out and research everything and expect to spend more money and TIME on this projected than originally anticipated.
MY2000 2.5rs + 2005 STi motor/tranny = win.
my car probably weighs 29xx lbs now, but it still moves out.
i originally only wanted the Sti motor, but the original 5spd failed on me. as of now i'm still on the 2.5rs rear diff. mated to an automatic forester drivetrain...eventually i'll get the R180 with Sti axles/hubs/brakes etc....
i didn't want the lighter models mainly because it was too old for me...a MY2000 chassis to me is still acceptable

and BTW yes every subaru with EJ-series engines from the factory share all the parts as direct bolt-on's - the only complication is the wiring.
to answer your question i would say go for it - the end result of your project will bring you extreme joy as the car will be stupid fun to drive. a lightweight AWD car that is nimble in the corners and can still make great power AND put all that power to the ground is an awesome combination.
but like aforementioned don't expect to get back what you put into the car...and be patient as you'll most likely run into a lot of unforeseen problems (sometimes waiting for parts and having the wrong parts arrive can make you want to head butt a brick wall) - a project of this magnitude will always have glitches and little accidents here and there.
you forgot www.rs25.com - lots of great information and overall a great community. also you can save some money by using ECUflash rather than getting the accessports (though some prefer having the AP's functions) and just overall avoiding COBB parts - quality but expensive.
the major downside for the GC vs. GD is that, while the GC is lighter it is much less rigid, and coming from modern sports cars esp. the s2000, the GC chassis can feel like it's made of spaghetti under high G corners. you may want to look into fender braces, f/r strut braces, f/r strut bars, but nothing will help as much as a proper roll cage - you get the picture. also, having a thick rear sway bar can make the car very tail happy and take out some of the understeering tendency a F/AWD car tends to have - esp. with the heavier ej257 engine sitting in the front of the car. IMO the GC with the most chassis rigidity you can apply (without breaking the bank, such as going into spot welding the chassis) along with decent suspension work will make for a very competent all-around performer.
i'm planning on keeping my RSTi for a long time - it's so much fun it's unbelievable
not to mention it's unique, and most of all a total sleeper. my old Evo gave me too much unwanted attention, and not even all the fun factor this hybrid car offers, IMHO.CN: DEW EET
but plan out and research everything and expect to spend more money and TIME on this projected than originally anticipated.






