man already having issues. this is the reason I put off doing this for so long. kinda regretting doing it now. going to try to sort the issue out but if it cost me more money, this shit is coming off and going back to stock. no matter how much hp it can produce. its not worth more than reliability! luckily this isn't my dd.

 

Yves, that does suck. I'm sure you will get it sorted out. It always takes time, and money to make something fast. You can't keep the motor stock after going with that body kit. She's gotta run like she looks

 

I think I got it. sc belt was loose. going to drive it today to see if okay. I need to learn more patience now that i'm tweaking this thing lol.

 

Patience and research are key, lol. But no matter how much planning and research you do, there will always be issues. Just the nature of the game.

 

well went for a drive and lean the fpr one turn. made a difference. didn't smoke as much at wot and pulled harder. first hour everything is great. no sweeping,steady. towards the second hour,afr still steady at 15 then drop to 13.6 then back to 14.9 to 15. but never go lean at idle. funny how it starts this when the pump starts whinning. more investigating.

 

Are you low on gas? The "whinebro" pump gets even more whiny around 1/4 tank. Its normal, just annoying. But fuel pressure can start fluctuating on a low tank. Like I mentioned, my AFR gauge was constantly moving at idle by about +/-0.5 AFR, centered around 14.5-14.7. So seeing high 13's and low 15's is fine as long as its fluctuating between them.

 

no still over half a tank. read the Honda manual and it seems what I read was that this seems to be normal. o2 sensors read o2 levels and tell the ecm to add/lean afr.via the stft. is that correct? so I could be over reacting to the gage fluctuation. no cel so the ecm is operating correctly. my wot is at11.5 to 12 after I lean the fpr. happy with that and the belt tightening seem to help. I take it these gages are very sensitive to throttle settings even at idle.

 

Yeah the closed loop stuff is just a basic PID feedback loop, but the stock ECU uses the stock narrowband sensor. It doesn't read as accurately as your wideband sensor that is tied to your gauge. Therefore the AFR will fluctuate more in closed loop with the stock ECU using the narrowband sensor. The narrowband sensor operates off of a much more narrow voltage range (duh) so it can't be as accurate.

 

drove yesterday evening and everything is good. curious to get my buddy with his stock ap1 and do a pull to see any difference now. lol check the oil, check the belt before driving. where is a good lacation on the fuel rail to install a fuel pressure gage at?

 

Yves can't wait It see it in person