Oil Consumption
I run Maxlife Synthetic 10W-30 in mine and change around 8,000 miles... I have just over 65,500 miles on mine... At 4,000 I change the oil filter and have 'em check everything and just top off... Well, today I was nearly 3quarts low!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I watch them as they change and check everything, so I saw it first hand... 2 3/4qts.
Now I'll admit, I do not check the oil at every fill up like I should and from now on will, but I did happen to check it just last night and it registered fine... Maybe just a tad low but nothing dramatic I thought...
I have heard that the early AP1's do consume oil (MY00-01)...
Anyway folks, if you don't check it, please make a note to do so every fill up at least...
I watch them as they change and check everything, so I saw it first hand... 2 3/4qts.
Now I'll admit, I do not check the oil at every fill up like I should and from now on will, but I did happen to check it just last night and it registered fine... Maybe just a tad low but nothing dramatic I thought...
I have heard that the early AP1's do consume oil (MY00-01)...
Anyway folks, if you don't check it, please make a note to do so every fill up at least...
Originally Posted by MyBad,Jul 8 2006, 03:34 PM
I check mine religeously at every fill up. My reward for regular changing came when I changed by oil jet bolts. Not a trace of sludge in the oil pan after 36,000 miles. 

The oil jet bolts deliver oil to the underside of the pistons. AP1's, until early '02 models, had oil jet bolts that delivered an insufficient amount of oil to the cylinders on hard turning. This resulted in a number of number 4 cylinder failures and a recall in Europe. There was no recall for North America.
The original bolts had only two holes. New bolts have four. Changing them involves removing the oil pan and reaching up to the underside of the piston with a socket wrench and universal joint. Not hard, but very tedious. Especially in the number one cylinder.
If you drive your car hard, I highly recommend changing them. If you decide to do it I'll be happy to give you some pointers.
This is yet another reason to check your oil level frequently!
The original bolts had only two holes. New bolts have four. Changing them involves removing the oil pan and reaching up to the underside of the piston with a socket wrench and universal joint. Not hard, but very tedious. Especially in the number one cylinder.
If you drive your car hard, I highly recommend changing them. If you decide to do it I'll be happy to give you some pointers.

This is yet another reason to check your oil level frequently!
Originally Posted by Saki GT,Jul 8 2006, 02:06 PM
Yes, always check your oil at every fill up. I alwso carry a quart and cone in my trunk, just in case.
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wierd. I change mine at every 5-6K miles and I use quaker state blend, from the honda dealer. I push the car hard and never have had any oil burning.
oh, and in may, when my oil pan was dropped, it was clean! 71K miles at the time, tech. was impressed. I guess I was too. It was my first oil pan I have seen off my car.
oh, and in may, when my oil pan was dropped, it was clean! 71K miles at the time, tech. was impressed. I guess I was too. It was my first oil pan I have seen off my car.
Hmmm, I may have to check into that... Thanks MyBad... I have driven her VERY hard the past few months... Between the few events locally here, the Wilmy meet, a couple of Charlotte meets, and a couple runs to MB... Lots of 
MyBad, What sort of time and $$$ costs are we looking at here for this "upgrade"...
Was this a DIY or professional job? Are these new bolts OEM or aftermarket?
Thanks...

MyBad, What sort of time and $$$ costs are we looking at here for this "upgrade"...
Was this a DIY or professional job? Are these new bolts OEM or aftermarket?
Thanks...
The bolts are OEM and I got mine from Hardtopguy. The bolts are less than $50.
You can do this job on jack stands but doing it on a lift is infinately better. You'll have to drop the oil pan and wait forever for the oil to stop dripping out. I let mine drain overnight and the next morning it was still dripping.
Getting the bolts out and back in is no problem except for the number one cylinder. It was a PITA because you can't see the bolt hole. You have to "feel" it go in and start threading. Doing this with extensions and a universal joint (required) is tough. The last thing I wanted to do was cross-thread that sucker.
You'll have to use a curing sealant when you put the oil pan back on. It needs to cure for 24 hours before starting the engine. You'll end up being without your baby for a few days.
I have great peace-of-mind now.
You can do this job on jack stands but doing it on a lift is infinately better. You'll have to drop the oil pan and wait forever for the oil to stop dripping out. I let mine drain overnight and the next morning it was still dripping.
Getting the bolts out and back in is no problem except for the number one cylinder. It was a PITA because you can't see the bolt hole. You have to "feel" it go in and start threading. Doing this with extensions and a universal joint (required) is tough. The last thing I wanted to do was cross-thread that sucker.
You'll have to use a curing sealant when you put the oil pan back on. It needs to cure for 24 hours before starting the engine. You'll end up being without your baby for a few days.
I have great peace-of-mind now.






