Hi All

Today on the way home from work, After about 15 mile of driving on 540, I stopped at an interception, I was in neutral and I notice that my car was not rolling even though I was stopped on a incline. To make matter worse, I notice that when the light turn green, my car was struggle to take off. At first I though I may have a flat tire so I pull off and check. Nope, tires all look good. And since I am only about 2 block from my home, I proceed to drive home and further investigate.

When I got home, I walked around the car and as I walk by the front passenger tire, I smell something burning and I feel a lots of heat coming off the wheel/brake. Right then I suspected that somehow my brake was binding so quickly I jack up the front end and surely the right front disk brake was binding.

30 minutes later, I checked the brake again and it seems the brake is a little bit loose but still have some resistant.

My S currently have about 29K on it and from the look of it, it had the stock brake setup. What can I do to fix this bind? any Suggestion?

thanks

 

Hey Johnny,

Front brake is a little odd. Usually it is the rear and something with the E-brake sticks. Are you on the original pads and fluid? If so is it time for some pads and a brake bleed?

Kevin

 

yeah, I am sure it's the front right, I've all 4 wheels off the ground the take times to turn each one of them, the right front stick. My S have 29K on them and I am pretty sure it's on the stock rotor and pad. I am thinking to get a set of SS brake line, rotor and pad anyway. I am researching if I need to get the caliper rebuild kit too.

how about the Big brake kit? is it really beneficial?? on my Titan the OE brake are terrible and I replaced with a Stillen BBK and I love them. but I think for the S. if I just go with after market rotor and the pad, will it be good enough for a DD?

 

The piston is stuck in the caliper or the slides are seized.. Either rebuild it, or replace the whole unit. I'd just replace it if it is too stuck.

 

 

yea thats the problem 29k really is not that much i have 60k on my stock pads and all and they stop 100%

 

Stock pads and stock rotors (or even NAPA cheap-o rotors) are plenty.

 

Johnny, I bought the Cryo-Stop rotors from TireRack simply because they have a coating on the rotor hats that keeps them from rusting (or at least as much as the stock ones do). Performance wise there is little to no difference. My decision was purely for looks. I wasnna say the rotors were like $60-80 each.

J

 

rebuilding calipers really isn't all that tough though, last rebuild i did on an "S" took me about an hour. really all you need for tools is a socket set, some open end wrenches and a brake caliper tool if your doing the rear calipers. and plenty of lithium based grease for the seal and boot.

 

Yesterday I took the front wheel off, loose up the caliper sliding bolt, make sure they move freely, then push back the piston with C clamp and a socket, clean everything with brake cleaner, then I put everything back and went for a short test drive. After driven for about 5 miles, I can feel the brake is definitely grabbing on the right front. When I left go the steering wheel, car is pulling on the right, and after I got home, right front wheel is hotter than all other 3. Looks like a caliper rebuild is in order. the funny thing is when i call most of the auto part around here (Advancediscount, Autozone, Pepboy, Carquest) none of them carry the caliper rebuild kit. They all try to sell me a caliper!!!! I guess I will be getting the rebuild kit from the internet.

Since I am breaking open the hydraulic, I am going to upgrade the brake hose to stainless steel brake hose. As for Rotor and pad, I am thinking Akebono ceramic pad, whatever gives lowest dust, and maybe an inexpensive rotor like the Centric. Anyone have experience with this setup?

JCox, thanks for the information, I'll check Tirerack for the Cyro-Stop rotor too.

Johnny