Hey guys-

Well, after a few months of constant down time, I have decided to go ahead and prep the s2k for sale. The wife and I are moving to NYC in the next few months, and I really do not feel like dealing with this up there (even if it is fixed and running by then, I will constantly worry about it being broken into, etc.).

My mechanic verified that the coolant system is now holding pressure, but the oil pressure is now REALLY low. Apparently an OEM motor is supposed to have 36psi of oil pressure at idle and 86psi of pressure at 3000RPM. I am only seeing 15psi at idle, and 60 psi at 3000RPM. The mechanic thinks the main/rod bearings might be dying/dead. There is NO audible rod knock yet, though. The oil light just "flickers", and I shut it down.

He is pulling the motor, and is going to inspect the head/bearings for me. He believes the head is still good, but the blown HG probably screwed the bearings before I could get it swapped.

Wondering if anyone has an extra f20c longblock/shortblock lying around? I am not wanting to mess with any scored/damaged blocks. Only ones that will be "plug-n-play." If the head is still OK, I will just slap that onto the new shortblock.

Once the car is up and running, I am going to be looking to get $20,000 for it. It is a MY00, with 85,000 miles on the chassis, and has about $20,000 worth of modifications (NO labor in that amount, just cost of parts). I am looking to get a newer model Jeep Wrangler, so if anyone is interested in a trade, let me know! I got title in hand and lots of extra parts (wheels, NA stuff, etc.) that go with the car.

Thanks again to anyone who can help!

John

 

Your mechanic doesn't need to pull the motor to check the bearings or the head... much cheaper exam methods would be just fine... unless he really just wants you to be paying a lot for labor so he can make more on the deal... lol!

Anyhoo... just a random opinion.

 

Nah. He is going to drop the oil pan to confirm the bearing diagnosis. I am going to go down and visually inspect/verify everything he diagnoses.

He is going to pull the head first, and verify that it is still straight, and that the problem is indeed in the bottom-end.

He has already done some work on it for free, as he likes working on "nice" cars instead of the normal crap that comes into his shop (I don't need to worry about him jacking the bill).

He has a 700hp Outlaw Class Civic tuned by Central Florida Turbo. He has apparently been talking to Fernando down there a bit about the issues with my car. We may end up getting a replacement motor from CFT, if they have one lying around, or can get one reasonably cheap.

John

 

cool... just lookin out for ya

 

Sorry to hear about that man, you've had more than your fair share of engine problems.

 

Good luck!

If I come across a motor, I'll letcha know.

 

no stock ones. 9 to 1 turbo motor ones.

20k worth of mods and a stock motor?

What have you done to the car other than a body kit?

 

Fully built Laskey engine w/ a turbo

 

I was wondering the same thing. That's a very high price for a car with that mileage, motor or not.

 

It current has a Laskey 9:1 motor in it. You guys have an extra 9:1 short block lying around? What type of block is it? Mileage? I might be interested depending on price. The price is flexible, and the actual body of the car still has less than 90,000 miles (considering its basically 9 years old now, that's pretty low mileage). The motor would have even less (if the Laskey motor gets rebuilt, it would effectively have 0 miles on it).

Mods:
Axis Halo 18" wheels/tires - $1500-1800
TEIN FLEX w/EDFC - ~$1200 ($900 for coils, $300 for EDFC controller)
PortFlow head - $1500
Laskey 9:1 shortblock - $3500
Mugen baffled oil pan - $275
Competition Clutches Ironman 6-puck w/lightened flywheel - $1000 for clutch, PP, and flywheel.
Poddymod Stage II rear end (plus full cryo job by Sub-Zero) - ~$1500 + oem core charge of $400.
HP Performance turbo kit with gt35r upgrade - $6500
AEM Serial Gauges (2x) - $150 each
Custom windshield surround for gauges - $300
AEM Oil Pressure Gauge - $200
AEM EGT Gauge - $300
AEM EBC - $95
Sound system has over $2000 in upgrades.... All external amps, 2-DIN DVD player, back up camera, Alpine Type X components, Boston G5 sub, etc.
C-West Ver. II front, Ver. I sides and rear - $1800 (without paint or install)
Pulled/rolled front fenders $500 (but the passenger side needs a re-spray, which I priced out at $200).
AP2 center console conversion - $250
Rick's center console cover and shift boot - $150 for both
S-Pods - $150
Muz Saddlebags for the trunk - $250
Muz 1 piece floor mats - $300
Custom LED lighting in the footwells to replace the overhead light - $150
Custom Passport 8500 mounted where the rearview mirror used to be + hardwired - $150
Rick's smoked side lenses - $35
Cleared front corners - $0... only labor.
Shaved front and rear emblems - $200, as the rear trunk needed to be re-sprayed. The front bumper came without an emblem. Side emblems were easy/free to remove.
Turbo Street Tune - 6 hrs - $300. It would be re-tuned after the motor is up and running again. The EBC is not even tuned currently. Just running off 1BAR wastegate spring. AEM EBC is installed.
GM 3BAR MAP with TunerToys MAP relocator - $100 for all the stuff (MAP + relocator nipple)

That is just what I can think of off the top of my head. These prices are without shipping, paint, or installation.

If I were to sell it for $20k, it would come with the stock motor, all the mods listed above, plus the remains of the built motor (might even get it rebuilt if no one bites quick enough to sweeten the pot), OEM rims/tires, another set of 18" non-staggered Konig Rhythm rims (street rims... not scared to curb them, as they are cheap). As well as my left over NA parts (ECU, CAI, and other miscellaneous parts... I do not have all the parts to return NA, but do have a few of them).

John