I finally found time last weekend to re-work my bitchin' trunk release module to include some additional features mentioned by club members. My original modification used the "top down" button to unlock the trunk, so I built on that functionality and now have something y'all might be interested in.

Here's what it does:

1. Disables the existing trunk unlock button (what a security risk!), and instead uses the "top down" switch to unlock the trunk. Mucho conveniento. I remember watching Dave having to shut off his engine to remove the key to unlock the glove box so he could unlock the trunk.
2. By pressing the "top up" switch you can unlock the passenger door lock. No more in-car yoga.
3. The above functions, along with the POWER WINDOWS and CONVERTABLE TOP will operate anytime the ignition is on or for ONE MINUTE AFTER the ignition is turned off.
4. The first 2 features will only work if the parking brake is NOT engaged (you must want to lower or raise the top if you set the brake, right?).

What does it take to achieve this state of convenience bliss?

1. You need the electronic module I built to make this magic happen. It installs under the console cover, and makes 7 connections to the existing wiring under the console.
2. Two additional wires need to be run from the console to the drivers footwell, and connected behind the kick panel.
3. One additional wire gets run from the console to behind the passenger dash.
4. One additional wire gets run from the console to the vent panel behind the driver's seat.

It sounds like a lot of wiring, but it's really not that bad. Most of the interior panels come off with snaps, and with some pointers from someone who's done it already, anyone with a little car stereo experience could do it in an hour. Well, maybe an hour and a half.

If anyone is intersted, let me know. I'd be willing to put together a few more modules (for a price ), and will provide some info to help with the wiring.

Let me know what you think. Also, is it worth the effort to add some additional circuitry (and another wire to run) to prevent the door unlock and trunk unlock functions from working if the car is moving?

Right now, if you hit the top down button at 75 mph, the trunk will unlock. I personally don't have any trouble keeping my paws off the buttons, but you may feel differently.

 

Modifry, you've tempted me to the point where I can't say NO to keeping my car stock

All of your modifications sound great! I'm interested in working with you on doing some of the mods you mentioned. We will talk more on Saturday, your coming out aren't you? Please let me know if you can make the drive or the dinner.

 

I intend to make the drive and will hopefully do dinner too. I'm not sure if Tanya will be coming or not.

 

I would def. be interested if the price is reasonable

 

Reasonable? Who are we kidding? I'm about as reasonable as spending $33k on a car just 'cause it look's bitchin', goes fast, handles great, stops short. . . . OK, maybe that's not such a good analogy.

The parts for the module aren't that expensive, but it takes me a couple hours to build one. So I'm thinking somewhere in the $40 range would be "reasonable". Does that fit your definition?

Oh, but just for you, since you used to own a bugeye (and I used to get my butt kicked on the auto-x course by a bugeye in New Orleans) I'll charge a special price of $400. Or does that blow the "reasonable" idea?

 

Are you putting down my Bugeye? I mean it was a wonderful utterly reliable car. In 30,000 miles all it did was break a rear axle, break a front spindle, leak grease on the brake shoes and freeze me to death with a top let let cold air, bugs and yes rain in between the top and the w/s header. I literally had bugs hit me in the chest.

Anyway, the $40 is reasonable. Think I'll pass on your SPECIAL Bugeye price.

 

I'm in. I purchased a copy of the Helms Service Manual which is REAL handy when it comes to removing the panels, trim, etc. So performing mods is made simplier when you know where everything is. I highly recommend it if you don't already have it. It's a great investment.

 

Roger-dodger on the service manual. I've got the regular and the electrical troubleshooting, which gives all the connector pin-outs, without which I would not be doing mods like this.

Andrew - nice to see you have fond memories of your Bugeye. Since you don't want any special treatment, I'll have to charge you the "regular" price.

I'll order some parts this weekend, and hopefully put some modules together next weekend. I need to re-work the PC board layout to use through-hole parts. The first prototype I decided to try my hand at surface-mount components - what a mistake. This stuff is way too small for hand work!!! I spent 2 hours troubleshooting the board because of a teenie-weenie-itsy-bitsy solder bridge. I'm going back to parts I can see.

BTW - I also have some other cool wiring mods (well, cool to me).

I just added a VTEC indicator, it uses the right turn-signal lamp in the dash to show when the VTEC solenoid is engaged. Pretty interesting. Mine hits at exactly 6,000 rpm if I'm at WOT, otherwise it may wait till almost 7,000 if I'm at part throttle. I chose the turn signal lamp because it was there and took the least number of parts (2 diodes and wire) to make it work. The hardest part is standing on your head to connect it.

I plan on listing the other mods on my web site in the next few weeks. I'll post a message in the Atlanta forum when I do.

 

You should contact Honda and see if they would be interested in any of your mods. Maybe you and Tim should get together and come up with some new dash indicators. I know I'm going to talk to them about the new grocery alert feature.

 

Modifry, wow, that's awesome. I am very interested in this "modifrication" so keep me posted on the details. I am also interested in seeing your other products and ideas!

And post to the S2000 Talk forum when you get your site set up with your inventions. You will gain FAR more exposure and I think that people would eat this stuff up!