Electric water pump in S2000
#1
Thread Starter
Electric water pump in S2000
My on track water temps and as a result oil temps continue to get a bit high. I had someone suggest putting an electric water pump in to help with this. Guy dominates circle track in the RM region. Doesn't have much experience with the S2000 other than he is running an F20c in his circle track car.
Thoughts? What will likely give me the best additional cooling capacity .... vented hood, electric water pump?
I'm already running an oversized Koyo radiator. Frankly, I didn't see any improvement with that over the stock one. I'm also running an oil cooler.
TIA
Thoughts? What will likely give me the best additional cooling capacity .... vented hood, electric water pump?
I'm already running an oversized Koyo radiator. Frankly, I didn't see any improvement with that over the stock one. I'm also running an oil cooler.
TIA
#3
Thread Starter
T-stat and fan are both controlled by AEM EMS. Fan is aftermarket dual fan (FAL) and is on if the key is on. T-stat opens at about 30 c. I'm seeing peak oil temps of about 126 c and coolant over 100 c. I see that after about 3 or 4 hot laps on track.
I have an alarm set for the oil temp and when it reaches 126 to 130 c, I slow down. I don't like slowing down while on track.
I have an alarm set for the oil temp and when it reaches 126 to 130 c, I slow down. I don't like slowing down while on track.
#4
Hmm, T-Stat = Thermostat which is only controlled by the temperature of the water.
I don't consider 100c for the water to be a problem. Oil temps in the 240-260f range are also not unreasonable. (130c = 266f). If you're really concerned, I'd probably go with an aftermarket oil cooler. I'd want lower oil temps.
I'd leave the factory cooler in place if possible because it pre-heats the oil when it's cold (faster warmup) then add an additonal oil cooler with a thermo control so, oil only flows to the new cooler when it gets warm enough.
Assuming the water flow is sufficient from the factory pump, you need to get rid of more heat, not move more water.
What do the temps do if you run the heater on the track (if you still have one)? I have to run the heater on my Civic to keep the water temps down (which means my radiator isn't big enough or isn't getting enough air-flow).
How old's the radiator? I've also read that radiators become less effective as they age because of heat cycling
I don't consider 100c for the water to be a problem. Oil temps in the 240-260f range are also not unreasonable. (130c = 266f). If you're really concerned, I'd probably go with an aftermarket oil cooler. I'd want lower oil temps.
I'd leave the factory cooler in place if possible because it pre-heats the oil when it's cold (faster warmup) then add an additonal oil cooler with a thermo control so, oil only flows to the new cooler when it gets warm enough.
Assuming the water flow is sufficient from the factory pump, you need to get rid of more heat, not move more water.
What do the temps do if you run the heater on the track (if you still have one)? I have to run the heater on my Civic to keep the water temps down (which means my radiator isn't big enough or isn't getting enough air-flow).
How old's the radiator? I've also read that radiators become less effective as they age because of heat cycling
#6
Registered User
I would recommend identifying the root cause of the elevated temperatures before fixing symptoms. Then again, your temps are within the normal operating range, why do you think there is a problem?
#7
I went back and watched a BMI video called the "Enduro Challenge". They ran stock cars wide open on the track for 20 minutes sessions to see which ones had sufficient cooling capacity. The temp that day was 97f. There was an Evo. STI, NSX, M3 CSL, RSX type Integra R, RX8 and an S2000.
The S2000 in the competition ran at 100-104C water temp and up to 140c oil temp for most of the race. It stabilized at that temp. One of the drivers mentioned he could bring the oil temp down simply by reducing the shift RPM's by 200-300 over his normal shift.
The uptake was the the NSX and the M3 didn't have enough cooling capacity. The Honda's were all very stable temperature wise.
The S2000 in the competition ran at 100-104C water temp and up to 140c oil temp for most of the race. It stabilized at that temp. One of the drivers mentioned he could bring the oil temp down simply by reducing the shift RPM's by 200-300 over his normal shift.
The uptake was the the NSX and the M3 didn't have enough cooling capacity. The Honda's were all very stable temperature wise.
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#9
Unless tstat or tswitch is broken, they have nothing to do with peak temps. Only way to truly reduce peak temps is by adding cooling capacity (bigger radiator, extra oil cooler).
#10
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jerrypeterson,Jun 29 2006, 04:47 PM
I would recommend identifying the root cause of the elevated temperatures before fixing symptoms. Then again, your temps are within the normal operating range, why do you think there is a problem?
- A lot of time spent at WOT on a big ass 4.5 mile road track
- FI (comptech)
I've added the oil cooler and large capacity radiator.
Twohoos ... what peak temps do you try to stay below on track? Oil & water?
Your JRZs probably would have dropped my temps by a good 15 c.